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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 1:06 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber
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Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2010 11:27 am
Posts: 62
Location: Mobile, AL
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I have a 1986 Dodge D150 with a 225 cu in engine, automatic trans, electronic GM ignition (ESC disconnected.) I have replaced the wiring from the alternator to the battery with heavy duty battery cable and a 100A fuse. I am having the alternator output measured at the battery to be very erratic with voltages jumping constantly from 14.8V to 15.8V with the engine idling. The battery is new and fully charged. I have tried four new voltage regulators and nothing changes. I have tried two OEM 75A alternators that are both tested good and no change. I have run a heavy ground wire from the VR case to the ALT to the negative terminal on the battery. The battery negative cable is well grounded to the engine block. I even ran new wires (not using the OEM wiring harness) to the VR to the ALT with no change. When I turn on the A/C the voltage holds steady at about 13.4V and does not jump around. I added a heavy ground wire from the ALT to the engine block with no change. Also, my accessory voltage gauge in the truck reads from 14.4V to 15.4V which is lower than the reading on the multi meter connected to the battery. When I am driving the voltage remains above 14V still jumping around (unless the A/C is on.) I am afraid this high voltage will damage my electronic ignition, battery, gauges, etc. I know this problem points to a grounding problem with the VR but I don't know what else to do. Does anyone have any suggestions beyond what I have already done? Is the heavy battery cable from the alternator causing this problem due to resistance? The problem started when the VR went out and started putting out 18V and the engine started to cut out. I have a new VR with an adjustment on the back but I don't know if I should make any adjustments as the OHM reading of the VR is 1.75 Ohms as it should be. What about using one of the blue VR's that put out a stable 13.4V from Summit Racing? Wound that be too much constant voltage for the battery and not enough for the A/C?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 2:25 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: SW Washington
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Barracuda, 1954 Dodge C1-B8
What you haven't done is make sure the reference voltage (switched battery) to the regulator is correct. If that's low the regulator will attempt to compensate. You could have a bad ignition switch, corroded bulkhead connector or any other flaky connection on the +12V line to the regulator. Get out the wiring diagram and track it down.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 3:04 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber
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Location: Mobile, AL
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I did check that. It was a steady 12.46 volts.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:18 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: SW Washington
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Barracuda, 1954 Dodge C1-B8
jkotis wrote:
I did check that. It was a steady 12.46 volts.


And that isn't the battery voltage. The reference voltage at the regulator must equal battery voltage or the regulator will raise the alternator output to raise the voltage.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 7:00 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber
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Location: Mobile, AL
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Okay, that makes sense. I will run a new wire from the ignition switch to the VR and make sure it is the same voltage as the battery. Thanks for the response.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:33 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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jkotis wrote:
Okay, that makes sense. I will run a new wire from the ignition switch to the VR and make sure it is the same voltage as the battery. Thanks for the response.


Before doing that, I would check the main power feed going through the bulkhead connector. That terminal has a habit of getting corroded, and having excessive voltage drop. "this"
https://flic.kr/p/2kCSuZD

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2021 10:35 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 78
Location: NC
Car Model: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
I would suggest, if it’s not on your truck, to do the relay upgrade. This takes all the voltage and puts it directly from battery to alt.


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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2021 10:32 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2020 1:15 am
Posts: 24
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Charrlie_S wrote:
jkotis wrote:
Okay, that makes sense. I will run a new wire from the ignition switch to the VR and make sure it is the same voltage as the battery. Thanks for the response.


Before doing that, I would check the main power feed going through the bulkhead connector. That terminal has a habit of getting corroded, and having excessive voltage drop. "this"
https://flic.kr/p/2kCSuZD

We'll see if the corroded terminal is what causes the voltage drop on buddy's incoming Dodge D150 project.


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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2021 5:41 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2097
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
That linked pic isn't showing the bullhead. The bulkhead is the pass thru, thru the firewall. The linked pic is a plug at the firewall at the back of the valve cover, the fried terminal is the main hot lead from the alt. Which was burnt on my 85 as well. But a direct line from the alternator to the battery would effectively bypass that.the other end of the wire at the fried terminal is on the fender well about a foot back from the "+" battery post and goes thru a fusible link. Another spot I see cobbled and/or corroded.


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