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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2022 6:51 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 107
Location: NC
Car Model: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
Seems all these new ones are total junk. I would just as well build one. Does anyone have a schematic or have made one of these? I have checked all wires, connections and grounds. All are great now that I have upgraded everything. Still the volt reg keeps dying. Junk now if you ask me. So I’m planning to build my own, that’s easy to repair, breadboard style.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2022 7:51 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3467
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Guessing that the vehicle is the 78 D100 listed in your profile.
So is that an electronic VR?
If so I have had an AZ Duralast VR on the 83 D150 for 10+ years with out an issue.
I also upgraded the charging system on the 68 Barracuda with a Nippondenso Alternator that uses the same external electronic VR about 4 years ago and it also has been without issue.
Building your own VR is fine, but perhaps you should post the issues your are experiencing with the charging system, perhaps someone could identify what is causing the issue and suggest a remedy.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 4:31 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 107
Location: NC
Car Model: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
DadTruck wrote:
Guessing that the vehicle is the 78 D100 listed in your profile.
So is that an electronic VR?
If so I have had an AZ Duralast VR on the 83 D150 for 10+ years with out an issue.
I also upgraded the charging system on the 68 Barracuda with a Nippondenso Alternator that uses the same external electronic VR about 4 years ago and it also has been without issue.
Building your own VR is fine, but perhaps you should post the issues your are experiencing with the charging system, perhaps someone could identify what is causing the issue and suggest a remedy.

Yes the 78 d100 my fault. I’ve upgraded to HEI, and have put the charging system in heavy duty mode as Dan had wrote up in the HEI thread. Used a better wiring harness from the same model truck. Upgraded the ammeter to a gauge, installed fuses where needed. Ran extra grounds from the alt to the VR and etc. Upgraded lights to be on relays. Re spliced wires, the correct and probably overdone way but why not. Seems it just keeps blowing VR’s. This makes like 4 since the upgrades. I’m about to put a quarter in it and roll it down a cliff just to say I lost something!! There’s only about 1 volt drop or less in the lines. I think that pretty much covers everything. It’s my only thing I have to drive so I’m out of options


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 6:18 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6293
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Can you take one of the failed VR's apart and look at the circuit?

You might just need the same circuit with heat sinks on the transistors............

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 8:20 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23665
Location: North America
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Throwing a pile of voltage regulators one by one at the vehicle clearly isn't going to help. Instead, figure out why they're failing. Check the alternator's field circuit draw and do the other diagnostics described in the service manual. Isolate the problem, fix it, and then you won't have the problem any more.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 3:45 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 7765
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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SlantSixDan wrote:
Throwing a pile of voltage regulators one by one at the vehicle clearly isn't going to help. Instead, figure out why they're failing. Check the alternator's field circuit draw and do the other diagnostics described in the service manual. Isolate the problem, fix it, and then you won't have the problem any more.

Agreed on checking the field current draw. What alternator are you running? The higher the amp output of the alt, the higher the field currant draw. You also mentioned "1 volt drop in the lines". One volt drop is too much if on the field circuit. That means either too much resistance or too much current flow (or both).

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 10:36 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 107
Location: NC
Car Model: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
SlantSixDan wrote:
Throwing a pile of voltage regulators one by one at the vehicle clearly isn't going to help. Instead, figure out why they're failing. Check the alternator's field circuit draw and do the other diagnostics described in the service manual. Isolate the problem, fix it, and then you won't have the problem any more.


I really didn’t have this problem until either the HEI conversion or the ammeter change to voltmeter. I will start there since it makes more sense.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 10:44 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 107
Location: NC
Car Model: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
Charrlie_S wrote:
SlantSixDan wrote:
Throwing a pile of voltage regulators one by one at the vehicle clearly isn't going to help. Instead, figure out why they're failing. Check the alternator's field circuit draw and do the other diagnostics described in the service manual. Isolate the problem, fix it, and then you won't have the problem any more.

Agreed on checking the field current draw. What alternator are you running? The higher the amp output of the alt, the higher the field currant draw. You also mentioned "1 volt drop in the lines". One volt drop is too much if on the field circuit. That means either too much resistance or too much current flow (or both).

Will check current draw. I have a regular rebuilt alt that I bought. It’s not the higher amp I believe it’s the 60amp one. Not higher though. I will trace wires again. Seems like I can’t win for loosing lately. It’s hard on my now that my heart is failing. Sorry for the personal info but it’s harder for me to do things now.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2022 2:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 107
Location: NC
Car Model: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
Got a new regulator just in case. This problem is intermediate comes and goes which is why it’s hard to figure out. Checked field circuit draw and it’s good. However I don’t have the specific tools the fsm said to use. I’m planning on putting on a known good and original alternator as the magnetic charge from the fields doesn’t go away as soon as it should but still checks out ok. The alt could be stuck in a charging state as when I had it tested yesterday it started working good again.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2022 5:52 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6293
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
You could put a fuse on the field wire at the VR to protect the VR.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2022 5:41 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23665
Location: North America
Car Model:
tattoosteve99 wrote:
rebuilt alt


Very likely the problem.

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