Yes!

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Is that a reply to my question about connecting the ballast resistor wires together?

Another question: I decided to go with an '82 - '97 Ford ignition coil (like the Standard BlueStreak #FD-478 mentioned in SlantSixDan's guide). It is an original Motorcraft one that I pulled off a '92 Ford E-350 van today, and it has a nice bracket that I believe will allow me to mount it on my 318 where the original canister-style coil is mounted (with perhaps some minor modifications to the bracket, and the addition of a spacer under one of the bolt holes).

It also has a condenser/capacitor with its positive wire connected in parallel with the positive terminal wire of the coil connector, and the body of the condenser/capacitor has a bracket that is screwed to the coil's bracket, thus solidly mounting it and giving its negative side a path to ground.

Original GM HEI distributors from the '70s had a condenser/capacitor as well, and it is my understanding that they were there for RFI suppression. Since my newly acquired Ford coil/bracket/harness/connector assembly already includes a condenser/capacitor, should I leave it there? I'm thinking it would offer RFI suppression in my car's HEI conversion, which would be a good thing.

Hi MaximRecoil, and welcome to the forum.

Take a look at this thread: ballast bypass

Distributor to coil cable: http://www.bgmicro.com/search.aspx?find=Quick+Disconnect

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=288101

Olaf

_________________
Aspenized

Thanks.

About the condenser/capacitor I asked about in my previous post: should I leave it in there or disconnect it?

I removed mine.

Olaf

_________________
Aspenized

Yes, view the pictures of mine on the red link below.



Yes, and you are correct, it will help. MSW wires (stainless steel wire wound over the carbon core) also help to suppress noise. Chrysler was on to something when they designed them!
The blue 8mm wires on my car from Summit Racing are built like that. They are durable.

_________________
Aggressive Ted



http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger





74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ok,I guess I'll go against the tide a little here,when I did the HEI conversion I used the single wire you show in the pic merely to operate a relay,which in turn supplies 12v to operate the ignition,as per the wiring diagram.The current draw to operate a relay is so small it is not a big deal either way,the resistor will not effect the relays operation.IF you want to supply power to run the actual ignition system from that wire ( not really recommended ) then most definitely yes,remove the resistor.

Thanks for the replies.

From SlantSixDan's guide:



Why isn't it known which wire goes to which module terminal? With as many people who have done this conversion, hasn't a pattern/consensus emerged with regard to which wire goes where?

The distributor that I'll be using in this conversion (part # 3656763) has a black wire and an orange wire. Doesn't it stand to reason that everyone who has done this conversion using an orange and black wire Mopar distributor ended up with the same result after their trial and error?

The two options are:

1. Orange to W / Black to G
2. Black to W / Orange to G

As I mentioned earlier, I have a 318, but an image search shows me that slant-6 distributors also have an orange and a black wire - link, or at least some of them do.

So have any of you who have done this conversion done it with an orange and black wire distributor, and if so, was #1 or #2 the correct way to wire the distributor to the HEI module in your experience?

The difference is whether the trgger point happens on the rising or falling edge of the sine wave. One has a much steeper slope than the other, and you want yhe trigger to be on the steep slope. Reversing the polarity reverses which side if the slope is the trigger. This does not address your question,but explains the problem. I do not know why it is not known which wiring provides the best orientation. It seems trial and error is the only way to know for sure here.

Sam

_________________

The problem is in the manufacturing of the pickup coil itself, I have had a few of the Airtex pickups be "flipped", and had to make a twisted pair jumper to use the distributor in a car. Most OEM and older pickups are fine, but the replacements can be either or, so trial and error becomes required at that point. Some of it is how sensitive the module is to the trigger signal, the mopar EI like you said is a sine wave, but I have found in checking distributors for "function" on the distributor machine I get a better pickup response if I use a Bosch 6 or 7 pin module (cheap in my local junkyard, and the 7th pin has a built in tach signal function) or an HEI module.

If the new pickup can't trigger either of them, I flip the pair and see if it changes things.

-D.Idiot

Suppose you have an older OEM one that is fine, would the orange wire from the pickup go to the "W" terminal of the HEI module, or would it go to the "G" terminal?

I have never measured the distributor wires, but I would imagine one is supplying a constant current to the magnet, while the return one produces a pulse. The pulsating one goes to the module. Downside is of course that you need a running engine to measure...

If you take a look at this diagram, you'll see that 4 and 5 are drawn both ways,
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/elect_ign_wiring/elect_ign_wiring.htm

I am certain that I once presented a correct diagram, or a link, but I cannot remember, I'll seek for it.

Olaf

_________________
Aspenized

HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To

In the lower part of the thread, in the Dart 65 digram, there is a suggestion for attachment of wires.

Olaf

_________________
Aspenized

The distributor's pickup in that diagram has wires labeled "Black" and "White/Black" (which is different than my distributor; mine has an orange wire and a black wire). Then those black and white/black wires in the diagram splice into an orange wire and a dark blue wire. The orange wire is connected to the HEI module's "W" terminal.

Has anyone here done an HEI conversion in which the orange wire is not connected to the HEI module's "W" terminal?

Don't worry about the color of the wires. The plug on the distributer has a male and a female connector. The male pin goes to the "W" terminal on the module.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170