The wiring harness running along the valve cover has a single wire that plugs into the oil pump. The brass fittting at the end of that wire fits around a circular nipple on the end of the oil pump which indicates low oil pressure on your dash oil light. Well mine broke off and no matter how I solder it, the dash oil light now doesn't work. It worked perfect before it broke and I used the solder.

Where can you get an exact replacement brass fitting replacement?

Do you want the oil pressure switch or the terminal for the wire? I'm thinking that if it's soldered well the switch is bad. Switches are cheap and readily available.

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Joshua

looking for the terminal for the wire.

OK, but is there actually continuity to ground through the switch?

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Joshua

How do I test for "continuity"? My idiot light worked fine before the wire broke at the terminal. Soldering it was the only change.

Why would I now have a ground problem?

You talk about the switch being easy to replace. Where is the switch?

The wire connects to the oil pressure switch.

Electrical Continuity

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Joshua

The oil pressure switch is located on the oil pump under the oil filter. It looks like a funky inch and a quarter nut with a brass tit sticking out of the center of the nut pointing to the front seat. The wire attaches to the brass tit.

When there is no oil pressure the switch goes to ground. So if you check with your tester from the tit to ground there should be a direct connection, or continuity. As oil pressure builds, the switch opens, braking the circuit to ground, and the oil light goes off.

You may need to run a new conductor from the bulkhead connector in the fire wall to the pressure switch. When I rewired my car I used a connector that looks like this, it just slides on over the brass tit.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC