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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 5:29 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 1933
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
Once I get my new truck to run, (reason why it won't currently, in other areas of Forum---missing a super important piece) one of the very next things I plan to do, is a full tuneup and removal of Lean Burn in fenderwell. I have the rest of what I need, have a couple of different ways I can go for ignition'' just got the last piece I need in the mail today. a brand new, NOS Mopar distributor. number on tag is 3874876. As was set up by Mopar back in the day, is this a good choice for a stock hydro motor in a pickup? I can see the arm on the vac advance can says "11R". I don't have access to a distributor machine to "play around" before I drop it in.
for now at least I will run the engine stock and unmodified except for the taking off of the lean Burn.

1 more question.... on the original carb (Holley 1 bbl) it has an idle kickup solenoid but no "feedback". this is stock as came on an 85 Truck with Fed emissions and A/T.. Would this carb, already have a ported vacuum port? hate to say this "here" but memory is fading, been longer since I played with a slant than a 318.... on the 318s that came with LB, they didn't have a ported port as-came from the factory. had to drill one in or change carbs on those.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 6:52 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12868
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
There is an article in the engine FAQ section about recurving your distributor using your engine instead of a distributopr machine. It works great.

There is a good chance the carburetor does NOT have the correct ported vacuum nipple to use with a vacuum advance distributor.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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That's a good distributor...if OEM check to make sure it's not packed full of stiff old grease.

I would set at 10BTDC to start and work up to 12 BTDC static.... Being it's an underpowered brick, I would also
order a Standard Hy Grade VC-239, and swap the stock 11R arm unit out for the the version with the 8.5R arm.

Good Luck.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 9:30 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 1933
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
Thanks. When I spin it in my fingers it does seem to be a bit stiff. I thought that might be just because of the newness of it.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 6:35 am 
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Location: Salem, OR
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I would take apart and clean then lube with synthetic grease on the advance parts, and run a little oil down the shaft then reassemble.


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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 11:15 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 1933
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
DusterIdiot wrote:
That's a good distributor...if OEM check to make sure it's not packed full of stiff old grease.

I would set at 10BTDC to start and work up to 12 BTDC static.... Being it's an underpowered brick, I would also
order a Standard Hy Grade VC-239, and swap the stock 11R arm unit out for the the version with the 8.5R arm.

Good Luck.

my damper must be a bit "off" at 12* BTC it fights the starter... I have it at 6* and it starts easy and runs good..... and yes I remembered to disconnect and plug the port on the carb before I hit it with the timing light.
and on that advance can... I have bought a couple of the VC239s that are stamped "8.5" but I have heard somewhere that some were mis marked and are really the same as the 11R that is in my distributor. I haven't yet swapped them out.
I have not messed with a distributor in much detail in years...… CRS in effect, sorry. but by playing with that adjustment within the vac advance nipple, can't they all be adjusted to work "the same" regardless of that stamped number? I thought that just indicated how the factory adjusted THAT one from the get go but any of them could be set for the same amt of advance as any other advance can..... sorry again for the CRS.
and I did swap out the carb, the accel pump on the original was "shot" anyways, and needed a rebuild...… got a deal on a "new" 1945, that wound up being a "new reman" from several years ago. that was after going thru 2 other different older 1945s, that wound up to be cracked and unusable.
I don't have the carb number handy but by the 7 digit Mopar PN stamped within, it's a 1978 spec carb.
gonna run it like this for now, but I have a Super 6 stack that will wind up on there, not sure if it will happen before or after my "new" engine on the stand finds its way into the truck.


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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 2:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
I have bought a couple of the VC239s that are stamped "8.5" but I have heard somewhere that some were mis marked and are really the same as the 11R that is in my distributor.


Not any made in the last 4 years... I ordered about 20 of these while recurving dizzys over the years, and 14 years ago they were marked 11x and worked like a Super Six
can should... the new ones are marked 8.5 and are 8.5 (i suspect they had a lot of 8.5 arms from VC-184 and 185 and not much demand for VC-208 and VC-239 so they dropped
them...)

Since this is a truck 10 BTDC would be just fine anyway, you don't need 12 if its fighting the starter (I would suspect timing mark since stock slants kick back on the
starter about 13-15 BTDC...)


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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 3:48 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 1933
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
well this engine is as "stock" as they come, for a hydro motor.
Being as how this dist that I have (I bought it as "NOS" via EPay) and is the 3874876, the advance can that it came with, is marked "11R" means it is really an 11R? I don't remember where I read about the mismarked vac advance can arms.... it wasn't that long ago, and as I remember it pertained to aftermarket ones (but I could be mistaken) These 2, VC239s that I have here that I recently got within the last month, are definitely "older stock" judging by the boxes..... IDK "how" old though.....


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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Being as how this dist that I have (I bought it as "NOS" via EPay) and is the 3874876, the advance can that it came with, is marked "11R" means it is really an 11R?


NOS = yes it's really 22 degrees at the crank at full vacc advance.

SMP = gotta open the box and look at the stamp on the arm.... (you can also measure between the arm notch and back of the vacc can and see which it longer...)

11R would be good for a light A=body looking for economy...not really good on an underpowered brick (may not tolerate that much advance in the mid range or at cruise)...


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