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 Post subject: Electrical failure
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 10:54 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:30 am
Posts: 13
Car Model: 1967 dodge dart 270 2 door hardtop
So I was running my Slant in the 67 Dart in the garage and the car is not in great condition or anything (it sat in thick bush for 30+ years), I had the headlights on and decided to try out the wiper blades, as I turned the switch I saw my Alternator gauge needle jump way back to the draining side, so I stopped and tried it again and the car tried to die so I stopped again and not thinking did it one more time out of curiosity and the car died. I soon realized as I tried to start the car again that nothing was working. It wasn't getting spark and all the electronics weren't working ex. headlights, dash lights etc. The only thing that still worked was the starter which I always jump the solenoid to start because the ignition switch has issues. Anyways so I checked the fuses under the dash and they were fine and then I did a quick scan of the engine bay and everything looked alright but I was just wondering what might be the problem. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.

Update, so I started going through the wiring harness with a diagram looking for the fusible link and I discovered that whoever had the car before me took the fusible link out, snipping the wire from the bulkhead disconnect. Instead they put in an inline fuse holder and fed it overtop of the bulkhead disconnect through the firewall which I have yet to find out where it leads. Is there some kind of fuse that is designed to protect the dash that may have went off because without a fusible link and no visual damage to any wiring i’m at a loss as to what is the cause of this


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 Post subject: Re: Electrical failure
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2020 9:34 am 
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EFI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:20 am
Posts: 273
Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model: '64 Valiant Convertible
For the sake of clarity, was that fuse (that replaced the fusible link) Blown?

The 40 to 50+ year old spade connections in the firewall connector develop carbon and corrosion creating a high resistance path for current flow. (Then they get hot and melt)

It could be that your (replacement) fuse was directed around the firewall connector.

If removing the front seat is an option, it will make getting your head under the dash much easier.

Let us know what you find......


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 Post subject: Re: Electrical failure
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2020 3:07 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1321
Car Model:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109


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 Post subject: Re: Electrical failure
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2020 3:29 pm 
Offline
Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1321
Car Model:
Do your headlights work? Go to bottom of page 8-117 , bulk head disconnect. Which terminal has been by passed? Wild guess terminal P


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 Post subject: Re: Electrical failure
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2020 4:38 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1321
Car Model:
This is guess work, based on what should be there in 1967. So beware. On page 117 terminal P wire R6-12BK goes to alternator Batt. On inside page 118 wire R6 leaves bulk head and goes to page 119. On this page R6 goes to crimped splice wire to wire covered with tape, not a connector you can see.


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 Post subject: Re: Electrical failure
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2020 4:49 pm 
Offline
Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1321
Car Model:
Wire R6 stops at this splice. 4 new connections from splice Q3 to fuse block J1 to ignition switch R6A to amp meter L1 to head light switch.


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