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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 11:25 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:44 pm
Posts: 133
Location: Reading, Pa.
Car Model: 1982 D150 225, 2bbl., 833 OD
I had a charging problem on my '82 D150 that I had been chasing for a week that is now evidently solved. Charging voltage was fluctuating about .3 v, but never stepping down much from about 15.0-15.2, even after very full charge on battery. Overnight resting voltage of 12.8. Checked all sorts of circuits, connections and VR ground many times. Substituted a known good battery for testing and replaced the alternator ( was changing belts anyhow) with a "new" rebuilt Bosch 60 amp ( no longer available) I had in my parts stash. I know my ignition switch has seen much better days but was hoping that I didn't need to go there right now.

The Standard MP VR125 I had on the truck for several years had worked fine, until it didn't. Used to max out at about 14.85 and eventually drop down to 14.3-14.4. High 13's with headlamps on. I also replaced that with another new Standard VR125 I had on hand. No change and if anything, charged about .1 v higher than the older one. I've also had a redundant ground on the VR all along. According to my FSM the VR may charge as high as 15.1 but at an ambient temp in immediate area of VR when it's -20F! I've been in the 30's and 40's. Good of a time as any to state that I'm not an electrical wiz. Some old posts on these forums about similar problems were a help.

I found a Mopar 4111990 VR on Old car parts Northwest's website which I believe was oem on my truck. Only $19.99 ! I had it coast to coast in 3 or 4 days, first class package mail. They had two other Mopar electronic VR's listed for considerably more money. Not sure of the applications for them. OCPNW has the same 411190 VR listed on ebay for $29.95! Mine was quite shop warn. I installed it today and am back to proper charging levels. After a fairly long crank over, It started at 14.6 and dropped to 13.9 after a 30 min. drive, no headlights. Good feeling and I hope I didn't hurt my year old battery too much. Not an AGM, so that helps.

_________________
1982 Dodge D150 ( Ram)
225 with A833OD. 2bbl. Non power brakes


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2021 4:59 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8422
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
I like this voltage regulator
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PREMIUM-ADJUST ... .l4275.c10

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2021 9:01 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8284
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I never saw one of those??

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
Image
12.70 @ 104.6
Image


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2021 10:20 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2798
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
Yeah I have a buddy who has an 89 or 90 cummins dually that doesn't get run much (because he has a company van that gets most of his miles) and he has been fighting a charging system issue much like you describe, his was either full tilt or sometimes not at all. He'd replaced the alternator and the regulator too, the regulator more than once. He came in to work one day and said that his truck is finally charging as it should.
He was at work one day and going thru some old parts for vehicles no longer in the fleet, that he was told to fill the dumpster with. Among the dumpster fill was a new regulator like our vehicles take. He says "I know what that fits" and brought it home, put it on his truck. Problem solved. Idk if it was oem or aftermarket but I guess it was as quite thick with a dust coating. New but old.
I should add that all of the new parts he tried all came from Napa, their "better" Echlin line.

That is why I scout ebay for new but old parts to fit my own vehicles. I had a similar issue, brand new regulator bad even though fresh out of the box. Fairly new stock too. I had one that id gotten from the junkyard with a wiring harness that went onto my 85 D150, I guess it missed it's former mate, put that junkyard regulator on and solved my problem.

I find myself pulling more parts from a junkyard that I never would have a few years ago because they either aren't that expensive new or the labor involved doesn't make it worth taking a chance on used and being bad, having to redo the job. I've been getting better parts used from the junkyard than some of what the parts stores are selling these days.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2021 11:08 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13008
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
This is why I am trying to slowly update my old Dodges to more modern systems that still have decent parts available new. Remember, the last slant six powered vehicle was sold about 15 years before most parts store counter jockeys were born. Our old vehicles are really a statistical anomaly on the roads anymore. You just can't expect parts businesses to keep making parts for these vehicles indefinitely.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2021 12:53 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:44 pm
Posts: 133
Location: Reading, Pa.
Car Model: 1982 D150 225, 2bbl., 833 OD
Wise move, Reed! The trucks/vans were the last made and they're getting tough. A few years ago I got one new oem bare upper control arm for my truck. Mopar still had them new at that time. About $180. Also grabbed a Chinese aftermarket UCA for the other side that appear now and then on ebay. I looked for 2 years until I found the last slant Walker head pipe for '80 -'83 slants, pre-mini ox converter. Found a new in box ReddiRad late 70's-80's slant radiator at a wrecking yard upstate this year. Some one bought all the truck slant dipsticks left at Mopar and sold them on ebay. Got one of the last Car-done "rebuilt" air pumps, now only rebuild service. I want to grab a Perfection ( Brute), last real 10 inch 833 clutch left before they're gone.

_________________
1982 Dodge D150 ( Ram)
225 with A833OD. 2bbl. Non power brakes


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2021 2:30 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2798
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
My last couple of experiences with so called Perfection clutches was dismal at best. They were far from it.
Each lasted about 5k miles on a club cab Dakota with a 318 magnum and NV3500. The 1st one, the throw out bearing went out, I was leery of it from the time I took it out of the box, because the sleeve that rides on the input shaft collar was plastic. Not cast iron, like the originals were.
Within 5k miles that throw out bearing went bad, was working 2nd shift came home about midnight with a screeching throw out, as soon as I touched the clutch pedal it got quiet. Let it all the way out, and sounded like a cat fight. The parts store said I had to swap out the disc and pressure plate too as I had bought the kit. I wanted just to replace the throw out bearing.
On 2nd go round something on the pressure plate came apart. So I got a refund and ordered a LUK clutch kit and never had another issue. Until I totalled the truck 70k miles later. The Perfection was marked made in china, which I figure was a big part of the problem.

I have looked at newer trucks, no thanks. The 72-93 were built so much better.

The saying that they don't make em like they used to, was never more true. And certainly not in a good way.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2021 2:56 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13008
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I try and swicth my Dodge vehicles and slants to use systems and parts that are shared with V-8 muscle cars since those parts will be in production by the aftermarket longer and likely at better levels of quality. That is one reason why I finally broke down and installed a four barrel carb on my slant. Not only because it was the only decent condition carb I had, but because I can still walk into parts stores and get parts for it off the shelf. Get away from application specific things like the one barrel kickdown linkage for a 1976 D100 and switch to generic modern parts like a cable operated kickdown linkage. Generic and universal is the way to go if you want to keep driving these old dinosaurs (like I do).


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