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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:21 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Dan:
Quote:
Have you run some jumper wires under the hood to make sure you're not being mocked by a faulty ignition switch or firewall connector?


Yup, Jumper (+)battery to (+) coil terminal. Turns over, has fuel, no start.

I removed the ignition switch a week ago as I though that may be the problem. It works fine, continuity in all positions with no funky intermittent engagement while rotating the switch, and feels tight. Re attached switch to the harness making sure all were fast and seated.

I have power to coil in run and start, and the starter spins using the ignition key. Today I'm going to make sure the signal from the magnetic pickup is reaching the box.

After that I need to see if there is voltage to the remaining two conductors at the box end of the 4 pin harness. If that all checks out, presumption would be a defective box I should think.

I remembered last night that I had removed the gauge cluster a few months ago to the bench to install a bracket to retain a new solid state voltage limiter and new left side circuit board, but that should not have caused any disruption to the start circuit as that wiring is not involved with start/run portion of the harness, or have I assumed wrongly?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2022 9:12 am 
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Bout the only thing I can think of that might tie the instrument panel into this is the power flow through the ammeter, assuming you still have an ammeter. If the ammeter's out of the car, connect its two wires to each other for now (lots of electrical tape; that's high current).

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 7:09 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Amp meter is bypassed. It is still connected to the battery side of charging loop, alternator leg has been disconnected. In other words alternator feed runs directly to battery. been that way for eight years when remote voltage reading conversion was made.

I'm thinking that this is a wiring or connection problem. 2008 all brass and bulkhead connections were replaced along with any substandard conductors. That work provided 14 years of trouble free electron flow until now. Today will be interruption free to systematically retest & trace everything down. Hopefully I won't need to pull the gauge cluster.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2022 8:44 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Finally the cussed thing fired right up with the old orange box. I traced every wire, went through the 36 step test procedure a few times before I found the problem.

First test: the instructions state with key on, check for voltage on pin one of the ECU harness cap, if battery voltage is with in one volt of battery go to step 36. Step 36 states the problem is wiring problem from battery. So I checked continuity in every leg of the ignition systems several times finding no interruptions. Which made no sense because all of the ignition components other than the orange box had correct voltages. A head scratchier.

Monday I struggled to get my head into test#1 results dilemma and walked away after several hours chasing my tail, spent the next day avoiding the damn car and thinking about the more than two week long blockage of my ability to solve this electrical problem.

Today with more resolve, I got after it repeating the whole rigmarole of the 36 step process at which time discovering that the factory two wire rubber connector between distributor magnetic pickup and terminals 4 & 5 housed in the ECU harness cap seemed to have a bad connection on one of the two legs. Sure enough one of the female connections was loose. A pinch with needle nosed pliers to that loose female (not woman) side of connection fixed the problem.

It started right up in the basement. Can't run the car inside the house except long enough to drive it to daylight. Later today when it has warmed up outside the timing will be checked and reset if needed.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2022 9:15 am 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Congrats! Dang, that's unusual and annoying.

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2022 9:07 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model: 75 Dart SE (2),75 Swinger, 74 Dart Sport,91 Ram RV
Woo Hoo!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2022 11:54 am 
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Turbo EFI

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Thanks for posting your results,learned some thing new.


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