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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2022 6:55 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
I have a 83 d150 slant six and my truck either won't start at all or if it does it dies while driving I'm thinking it's an ignition issue. The ignition switch is new since I lost the key and had to replace it. How can I test check for a bad ignition coil distributor cap and or distributor I also already replaced the spark plugs. Any help would be great. I'm currently not where my truck is at now so I can spray starter fluid in the carb to test if it's either a fuel or ignition issue but would like all the knowledge before so when I go in 2 days I can test and fix it. It's an old truck so I'm thinking of replacing everything but would really like to see what the issue is. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2022 7:59 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2370
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
well the key portion of the ignition switch has nothing to do with the electrical system. it is just a key lock. If you don't have tilt, it is connected to the electrical part of the ignition switch by way of a stud that sticks out the end of the key part that engages the electrical part. if you don't know when the cap and rotor was last done it doesn't cost much and most likely should be replaced anyways.... I have a few extra, new ones, I'd give ya a cap (old old stock but brand new) if you were close by.... not sure if I have any rotors I could spare though.
Does it stall when warming up or after fully warm, or while sitting or while driving down the road? you really didn't give enough info to tell where the problem might be...
what are you running for ignition? Still running lean burn computer or has it been converted? does it seem to "take gas" OK or does it bog while running? Lots more questions from your post than answers.... but you can't skimp on maintenance, especially if you don't know when stuff was last done. and to let some parts (mainly tuneup parts, oil and gas filters, etc) go til the truck "won't run" is letting them go too long.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 3:15 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
volaredon wrote:
well the key portion of the ignition switch has nothing to do with the electrical system. it is just a key lock. If you don't have tilt, it is connected to the electrical part of the ignition switch by way of a stud that sticks out the end of the key part that engages the electrical part. if you don't know when the cap and rotor was last done it doesn't cost much and most likely should be replaced anyways.... I have a few extra, new ones, I'd give ya a cap (old old stock but brand new) if you were close by.... not sure if I have any rotors I could spare though.
Does it stall when warming up or after fully warm, or while sitting or while driving down the road? you really didn't give enough info to tell where the problem might be...
what are you running for ignition? Still running lean burn computer or has it been converted? does it seem to "take gas" OK or does it bog while running? Lots more questions from your post than answers.... but you can't skimp on maintenance, especially if you don't know when stuff was last done. and to let some parts (mainly tuneup parts, oil and gas filters, etc) go til the truck "won't run" is letting them go too long.


I'm I'm texas. I change the cap and rotor than. Gas and oil filter are new. Honestly and times it will start up great and drive no issues than just die while driving 10 minutes. Other times id drive it for 2 days with no issues. And like last night it wouldn't even start. It seems to take gas fine. What do you mean by it bogs out? Not sure if I have a lean ignition or if it's been converted ill send a picture to see of you can tell.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 5:55 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2370
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
It's been converted, see that blue box on the firewall? That's the ignition box


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 9:56 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1492
Car Model:
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 10:07 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1492
Car Model:
Only one bolt , ground is probably intermittent. Get some sand paper etc. Box needs good clean connection to sheet metal,its return path to battery . No ground no spark.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 10:32 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
Only one bolt , ground is probably intermittent. Get some sand paper etc. Box needs good clean connection to sheet metal,its return path to battery . No ground no spark.



Aaa I see sand it down and find another bolt to bolt it in place. Could that really cause an issue


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2022 12:12 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1492
Car Model:
Could that really cause an issue. Yes in my opinion. Going on what you have stated and pictures. Ignition box ground is important.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2022 10:55 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
Only one bolt , ground is probably intermittent. Get some sand paper etc. Box needs good clean connection to sheet metal,its return path to battery . No ground no spark.


I put a bolt in it. Still haveing issues. Do these rams have some sort of resistor on them? A mecanic friend of mine told me it was missing a resistor


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2022 4:39 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2370
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
With the lean burn they eliminated the resistor but it depends on the coil they used in the ignition box conversion, as to whether you need it or not. Depends on the internal resistance of that particular coil.

As originally made, yeah/ Dodges with the sort of ignition system as yours now has as originally equipped had a ballast resistor. But they get blamed for everything under the sun and most of what they are blamed for, they cannot possibly cause.
If it sounds like it started and dies as soon as you let off the key that resistor is bad. ANY other symptoms of not running right, that resistor is NOT the cause of.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2022 4:41 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2370
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
Where a bouts are you located? Maybe someone else from the forum is in your area and can help?
And so you know the problem you seem to be having isn't isolated to just trucks with a /6 in them


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2022 10:07 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:20 am
Posts: 290
Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model: '64 Valiant Convertible
I once had a forklift with /6 power, and had a problem as you have described.

It turned out to be the coil. When cold, it fired fine. When it got warm, the continuity failed internally and it quit.
Drove me nuts till I just swapped in a substitute coil. Problem solved.

Might be worth a quick try if you have access to an alternate.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 4:15 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2022 6:15 am
Posts: 9
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 / 225 ( Canada )
i think it´s the coil. Remember, when the engine is dying, what weather it was? Maybe a rainy day? A little crack on the coil i guess which is getting bigger when it´s warm..
You might even check the points..


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2022 5:20 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
René.G wrote:
i think it´s the coil. Remember, when the engine is dying, what weather it was? Maybe a rainy day? A little crack on the coil i guess which is getting bigger when it´s warm..
You might even check the points..


The coil is right underneath the alternator right?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2022 2:36 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2022 6:15 am
Posts: 9
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 / 225 ( Canada )
Yes that‘s right. Should be no problem to get there..


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