63 Valiant; so I bought a new aftermarket turn signal switch (7 wire) to replace my non-working one....After a lot of fiddling, I managed to thread it down through the steering column; joined the under dash connectors and... nothing... Also, the column stalk moves up and down, but with no discernable or positive "click, to tell you right or left. Not sure what is going on here.
Is there one preferred brand? These are not cheap....

SlantSixDan has some good quality switches. I'd check the one you have with a multimeter to see if you get good connections.

_________________
Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

If you can get a new one from SlantSixDan, then do that. I have 1-2 of those installed and they work perfectly.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

This is a pic of my installed switch.... is this thing supposed to move around or stay stationary, when using the turn signal stalk?? I'm confused as to how this switch is supposed to work...

The outer plate is only supposed to move slightly. as the arm that attaches to it is about 12 inches long. So, help us understand what isn't working correctly.

_________________
63 Plymouth Valiant Wagon

Outer plate? No sure what you are referring to. Turn signal levers have three positions, correct? down (left) up (right) and center (off); I have the turn signal lever connected to the switch... but moving the lever with this switch doesn't have any defined positions, it just moves around. Maybe I have it installed wrong,...altough I installed it just the way the old switch was positioned/wired.
All those wires under the switch DO make installation more difficult, since they have to be compressed (smashed) in order to get all three screws seated/tightened.

The wires should really slide down the column casing and not get too bunched up. I wonder if the long screw holding the signal lever is not engaged far enough, or the raised "block" on the lever where it hits the screw is not splining in with the switch on the bottom. The wires could be holding up the lever from getting seated into the switch from the bottom. I suggest pulling the switch off and making sure you can put the lever onto it (outside the column) and actuate the switch to the 3 positions, then pull the lever and reinstall the switch with wires out of the way.

You can also test the switch (out of the column) with the wires connected and lever attached to see if it runs the lights properly in all 3 positions.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Well, it WAS the wires ; they were preventing the switch/attaching screw to fully seat in the stalk...Moved them around a little and got it to seat. It now works. Thank you.

Do Dan's turn switches come with the horn wheels like in the picture. That would be so nice, I scoured the web looking for those and came up empty.

Thanks, 74

_________________
Where ever you go there you are!

Yes, wheel included. Dan is on this site as "SlantSixDan" so you can PM him. He may not have 74 switches though.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

I like the idea of the roller wheel just as much as you do, but even Chrysler went to the slider-brush type horn contact on their own OE switches, and they don't make problems over many years and many miles if the switch is installed correctly. Complaints of noise, etc are because people don't know that the slider-brush requires lubrication.
A thin film of graphite grease is all it takes for many years of silent, problem-free operation. The Chrysler document you see here was included in the box with replacement '70-up switches once OE production (and therefore replacement-part production) moved to the slider-brush type of horn contact.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.