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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2022 9:14 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 8977
Location: IRWIN PA
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ProCycle wrote:
Greg Ondayko wrote:
Procycle, would you be interested / available to make any more of those?

I'd be happy to. I will PM my mailing address.

There are a couple of pitfalls in using a pulley for this. There's enough slop in the bolt holes that it's a bit fiddly getting it bolted up concentric on the crank. The pulley I used wasn't all that accurately manufactured. The center hole wasn't concentric with the edge. For a belt it doesn't matter that much but for consistent gap to the hall effect sensor it does. It would be nice If I had pinned the pulley so it can only go on one way.

Also, if I make one for you I'd suggest that I don't machine the gap. Instead, you grind one tooth out after you have your pickup in place and the gap offset figured out. I had mine wrong when I took that last photo. The engine is at TDC and the first tooth is lined up with the sensor. That's wrong. I had to move the trigger wheel so the first tooth lined up with the sensor at about 40 degrees before TDC.



Got it, thanks,

Could the Edge of the pulley be machined concentric with that center hole?

I have a small lathe but no milling machine and no indexing table etc. so I would not be able to fit any of that on my tooling.

Thank you. Back to the regularly scheduled thread!

Greg

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2022 9:21 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
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Location: Springtucky OR
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Yes, and I would do that before cutting the teeth. But the bolt circle isn't necessarily concentric with the the center either. Since you have a lathe you could make up a collar that would fit into the harmonic balancer bore and center the pulley on that. I may have to slightly enlarge the center hole to get it to fit on the rotary table chuck.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2022 11:21 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:26 pm
Posts: 1237
Location: CBS Newfoundland Canada
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nice! great idea!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2022 9:13 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 264
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
The triggerwheel I presented at the previous page was made by water cutting machine including the bolt holes. No drilling or cutting afterward. Just polishing the sharp corners off. It was accurate enough in that condition for Honeywell hall sensor. The sensor I used has about 2mm (0.080") air gap so a little wobble does cause anything. VR sensors with minimal air gap are much sensitive to move the wobble to the output signal. It goes first to the amplitude which increases when air gap decreases. And because the sensor electronics is a bit sensitive for amplitude because sinus wave style output the phase could also wobble and that is not a good issue at all. As well the hall sensor output signal with just 2 levels "0" and "1" (5 Vdc) does not take noise from ignition as the VR sensor signal does.

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