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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2023 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 23, 2018 1:28 pm
Posts: 33
Location: RPV, CA
Car Model: Dodge Dart Convertible 1964, 1966 D100 Utiline
Here’s an update. I got an RT-ENG IVR3 regulator for the D100 because I didn’t trust the fuel gauge regulator after buying a new $$ temperature gauge. Fairly simple install, with the hardest part being opening the fuel gauge and disabling the internal regulator. I bought the recommended SMP VR128 because of the dancing ammeter and flickering lights. The lights are on relays, but there was still the dance and flicker. I kind of gave up and then I experienced random bouts of over charging. As the RPMs increased the ammeter would go up and I figured that wasn’t good, specially after metering 17+ volts. Then I would let it idle and everything was fine. I was curious though because even when it was working it was showing between 14.5 and 15 vdc on the meter at the battery and the alternator and the ignition. Kept trying to find loose wires/ bulkhead connectors but no dice. Then I happened upon this ground plane thing, which I had never heard of, implemented it, but again no dice. Then my IVR3 got fried and the gauges went dead. Dang!! So I stuck the old mechanical regulator back on and viola, magically everything is great. No dancing, no flickering and metering between 13.5 and 13.7 vdc. I’m guessing that the ground plane fixed the dance (ground wire directly from alternator to regulator to battery). Probably got a bad VR128. I had to get another IVR3 but the gauges are back and I think that the old IVR3 gave itself up to save them. Yayyy!
With that issue finally solved I decided to add an oil separator/ catch can to the D100 and Dart since they are so cheap, $20 on Amazon and It intuitively sounded like a good idea. Did the D100 first and the idle has smoothed out and it seems to start easier. Just did the Dart, so don’t know if the same will apply. I added check valves to keep boost from entering the cans.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2023 4:40 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2023 6:47 am
Posts: 4
Car Model: Dodge W150 Pickup
Great thread. We ae planning to do this kit on my sons W150 pickup. We are at the stage of pulling the engine out now for a rebuild. Not to hijack your thread, but can someone link me to Dart270s build? I'm trying to figure out if we can stick with cast pistons, and some other things as my son's budget is not unlimited, LOL.
Jerry


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2023 8:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16180
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Jerry,

I do not have a thread for my supercharger buildup yet. I got your PM. I am terrible about posting things, except under the "What did you get done on your Slant" thread in "Social Corner". I will try to get some pics and such into a new thread.

A short answer is that if you will stick to 6-8 psi and will have good ignition control (adv/retard curve) and fuel control, then you should be fine with cast pistons. One "relatively cheap" suggestion is to use the MSD-6AL-II digital programmable or the current equivalent (used to be 6530 PN?). And, use a Holley 500 2bbl carb with boost referencing. Personally, I decided I would not mess with boost until I did EFI, and I have run turbo and torqstorm with megasquirt-I (v2.2) since 2003 for fuel control only and port EFI. You will absolutely need an AFR guage like the AEM x-series.

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2023 8:52 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2023 6:47 am
Posts: 4
Car Model: Dodge W150 Pickup
Thanks Lou. I may just go ahead and help him with the budget a bit more than I planned. It may just be easier and safer for us to run the Holley Sniper unit meant for the Jeep 258. I assume this can be used in a blow thru setup but I haven't talked to them yet or searched. That should take care of all the fueling issues and get the MSD box for the boost retard. I see you're in VA. We are too. I'm about an hour North of Charlottesville. I lived in Blacksburg for about 8 years (94-2002)
Jerry


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2023 11:01 am 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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That Holley TBI could be a good option and I think they have options for boost or not. To me, a "budget boost build" will mean either tons of time tuning, or plenty of broken parts.

Cool you're in VA. Stop by sometime! Can give you a ride/tour.

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2023 7:34 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2023 6:47 am
Posts: 4
Car Model: Dodge W150 Pickup
Thanks Lou. Hopefully the budget build just costs us more time and not broken stuff but we’ll see!. We have 6 months before it has to be back on the road, so we’ll see. I’d love to check your project out. I don’t get out that way very often anymore, but if I do I’ll certainly contact you.
Thanks,
Jerry


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2023 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2023 6:47 am
Posts: 4
Car Model: Dodge W150 Pickup
One thing I just realized from this thread is about the powersteering. I didn’t realize most installs aren’t running it.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 3:54 am 
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FYI, I do not like power steering and did/will not use it (maybe electric later).

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 4:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
You will not like a 4X4 without power steering unless you are the Hulk! :D

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 12:02 pm 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Ah, gotcha. I am a light car handling guy. Trucks and heavy cars are different.

Lou

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