Thanks. I always called them "pop-off" valves.

When I was working next to a ALCO stationery diesel in my college days they had 600lb turbos 16" diameter pistons. They had a spring loaded steel plate on the end of the log intake.

When it would get to hot in the Oklahoma heat we would run a sprinkler on the outside. If "Bessie" got too hot she would burp a back fire and clank that steel plate! I was in checking the oil etc once when she did that! "bout crapped my pants!

ALCO is American Locomotive Company.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

You can go to the Biuck GN site and they h ave what they call a Turbo saver, or Oil saver or something like that at one of there vendors ( search and read the forum you will find it).

Its basically a add on filter to protect ball bearing turbos. Its just to easy to get trash from inside oil passages even if its a filtered point. The ball bearing can not take much like a bushing turbo can.


Ring Gap - What every you gapped them at, did you make the second compression ring a wider gap than the first ? It should be or ring flutter will be a problem.


PCV valve - You need to make sure that the valve you use will not flow boost back into the valve cover when it is under boost. ( shoudl not be able to blow through the valve backwards). Most of the factory turbo cars will have a PCV valve that will accomplish this and not screw up ( some PCV valves that will can screw up after being hit with boost). A reall good one is one from the Eagle Talon 4G63 engine. I dont know if it will flow enough for sucking out pressure when in normal mode, but it should. If not some other would work, maybe a Biuck GN PCV valve ( if they even have one like this system).


Carb Hat - Most of the time the carb hats clocking will effect fuel a hugh amount. Like it being staight on with the carb, or at a 90 degree angle. The angle you have yours may be causing problems, just have to test and see what works best.

PCV valve unhook - when you unhook it and the engine picks up speed it means it is very very rich. Or the valve could be getting blocked when installed in valve cover. SHould be able to hold the other breather hole for 30 seconds or so and when you release hear the vacume being drawn in, thus proving PCV valve is pulling vacume in crank case.


Ez idle screw - this is used so you can get the throttle blades at the right point on the idle transfer slots. Remove carb set throttle blades at right point then use Ez idle screw to set idle. Then ajust idle mix screw, may need to reajust EZ screw after word and go back and forth until till idle is achived. Try with rear blades closed first, if correct idle cant be achived open rear blades alittle.


The bigger carb should nto be a problem, it may require working with to achive correct tune but should work fine when done so. Trying a 4 hole spacer may help if you have enough room at hood. Turning the carb with bowls going fender to fender and adding a plenum devider could also have a big effect on its working. If so extra prep so jets dont get uncovered under power may be needed. This is something I have not tried, but it could help in a big way making it kinda like a duel plane intake. A duel plane intake will always want a bigger carb, so this may help in more than one way on yours.


Turbo oil return - make sure you do not have pressure building up at the return port at oil pan or block ( which ever it is hooked to) . Even with no pressure in pan it can build pressure here if it's in a odd place compaired to windage coming off of crankshaft.


Good luck, nice project also.


Jess

I got my turbo back from precision today and when i bought the thing 4months ago it had what i thought was a bit of shaft play brand new and now i believe that thought was very true after wiggly and spinning my turbo again once i pulled it out of the box today its alot snugger and spins nicely with no wobble what so ever. I also called precision about whether to run an in line filter and Scott said he wouldn't because they usually end up starving the turbo of oil down the road and my filter should be suffcient already and he recommended just change the oil and filter and keep an eye on it. I may just pop it on since i have one and run for a few weeks till i change the oil again to be sure it's all clean, but i honestly think it was just a defective piece when i got it but who knows.

Ya my second ring is gapped wider per the wiesco instructions
I have the PCV valve hooked up with a check valve in front of it so boost cannot pass back through the line to the PCV valve itself on the valve cover. Don't know about clocking the carb hat may have to mess around with it.
My ez idle screw is turned in closed and secondary butterflys are closed car still idles high but after looking at the manifold gasket could be a leak their for the intake from the exhaust blowing the gasket out gotta fix that then i'll know.
The oil drain is into the side of the pan above the oil line pointing directly at a main cap so i don't think there is a problem there it's a big fat hose i think -10 i dont remeber you could stick your thumb in the drain line easy.
Spacer is the 4 hole type under the carb

Kev

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Get that thing going!!!

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

I was just thinking about while putting this thing back together, i'm not running an oil cooler should i be running one are you guys running one? I am thinking i don't need one cuz i'm sure the oil cools down on it way back through the motor and back to the turbo but i could be wrong. If i were to use one would i plumb it before or after the turbo i was thinking before so the turbo is getting oil cooled.

Kev

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What's the oil temperature? That is how you determine if you need an oil cooler or not. BTW, the oil cooler should be full flow.

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Joshua

I don't have an oil cooler and don't need one. I have a deep pan that holds about 7.5 qts. The engine's water temp is normally run between 160-180. I will let it go to 200 on occasion (no beating of course). The hottest my oil has ever checked is about 190. That was shooting the pan with a IR thermometer. The oil you use will have the specs at which it was designed to operate.

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11.02 @ 120.56

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY

Chassis dyno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Dunno never temped the oil before and i also have a pan i can fit 8 qaurts in so i would assume i'd be safe i'll have to use an inf gun and see how hot the pan gets.
I use 10 40w valvoline
Kev

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10/40 amsoil

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11.02 @ 120.56

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY

Chassis dyno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

I would run a 10-30 or 15-40 deeeeezel oil. Lots of zinc, lots of detergents.

Amsoil may run cooler as because it is synthetic.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

It has plenty of Zinc. That is one of the reasons I use it. It is rated for flat tappet engins...API service SL/CF, SJ, SH, CI-4

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11.02 @ 120.56

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY

Chassis dyno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Car is back up and running droke it to a car show after firing it up last night, I forgot how awesome it sounds and how fun it is to drive after sitting in the driveway for like 3 weeks.
Things to do tommorow on my day off- pull manifolds off put one of franks gaskets on their fix an exhaust leak, reset valve lash, re torque head, fiddle with the carb and timing if i got time.

Eased into the throttle till floored from a light today on the way home from work about half throttle started roasting the tires in 1st while boost hit got a bit of more than a chirp more like a tire spin scurrp when nailed into 2nd gear then cruised on home felt good saw the boost gauge tip about 6-7psi, gonna do longer vent tube exetensions before i start back to jetting. I'm wondering if not having some pretty massive exhaust leaks will be noticeable on the already quick spool of this puppy.

Do you guys not like valvoline? i'll be changing oil in about 2weeks cuz pan is gotta come off soo suggestion box is open.
Kev

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Valvoline is good oil. Just not enough zinc for some flat tappet cams. I like 15-40 Valvoline for the Cummins.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Kev
What did u torque your main studs and head studs down to my chiltons said 85 lbs but my instructions for the mains said 110 I'm in the process of assembling my motor and I could use some help


I see u posted the same question in the earlier stages of this thread but the question didn't get answered

Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

I torqued the mains to 110 and i think 85? on the head per the arp instructions in the box.

Kev

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