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Reply to this message please.

CJ

I'm going to reply, since this is the FAQ section, and I want to make a major point about power adders. Remember the old oil commercial? "Pay me now, or pay me later".

Nitrous is generally easier, and less expensive to install, then a turbo or super charger. But nitrous has the "long term" expense of having to keep filling the bottle, and that can eat up the initial savings. Also nitrous is all on or all off, where turbo/super charges can be "modulated".

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Nitrous is generally easier, and less expensive to install, then a turbo or super charger. But nitrous has the "long term" expense of having to keep filling the bottle, and that can eat up the initial savings. Also nitrous is all on or all off, where turbo/super charges can be "modulated".

And Ill add nitrous also is much harder on parts because of its on/off shock load. not to mention that as the bottle empty's it causes a rich condition,which is hard on pistons. so in the long run nitrous tends to be more expensive.Sher is fun to push the button and feel the thrust though

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Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.
64 valiant 4 door

One thing you have to remember, boost is boost whether it comes from a bottle, blower, or snail. If the motor is not built to handle it, or the tune-up is wrong, damage WILL result. There is no such thing as plug-and-play boost.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Nitrous doesn't have to be strictly on/off, but adding a proportional controller to the system adds expense and complexity to the system. The FJO Progressive Mini Nitrous Controller can be had for about $215. Flowing nitrous in proportion to RPM gives a fixed torque/cylinder pressure increase rather than a fixed horsepower increase. Keeping cylinder pressure under control keeps head gaskets and other parts intact. Ramping up the flow with RPM means more nitrous can be used as the RPM rises so the car will be faster. If the engine will take a 100hp shot at 3000 RPM then in theory it will take 200hp at 6000 RPM.

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Joshua

Is boost really boost? Lets take my motor for example, I would guess it is around 100 rwhp NA and 450 rwhp on psi. This is a spread of 350 hp. So if I put in a 350 shot of nitrous at 5000 rpm this would mean I would have to put in a shot of 175 at 2500. Would my motor be able to digest 350hp worth of nitrous and if it does would it survive? This is actually something I would like to see from a factory balanced stock rod, crank and block. WeeeHaa. Later
Ryan

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

http://www.youtube.com/c/turbo66valiant
Follow on Instagram - turbo66valiant
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/ryan.peterson.737

Ryan,

There is no way your engine is only 100hp normally aspirated. It's likely close to 200. If I knew your boost, intake temperature and boosted horsepower I could tell you very closely what horsepower that engine would make naturally aspirated.

The next engine I put in my '67 Valiant is going to be nitrous fed and will use an old Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind progressive controller. The cast pistons are going to be the limiting factor in how much nitrous I can use. It may be a while until I can devote time to the Valiant as the Barracuda is top priority right now.

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Joshua

I don't know the intake temps but figure 450 rwhp and 27 psi boost. Remember it only has 22* timing on boost, around 7.5 comp and .465 lift cam. Head work is so so. Do you know what the intake temps should be? Later
Ryan

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

http://www.youtube.com/c/turbo66valiant
Follow on Instagram - turbo66valiant
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/ryan.peterson.737

I read somewhere that the intake temp can drop as to somewhere around 130 to 100 degrees F with a good intercooler setup. I'm just shooting in the dark I dont have my turbo motor in the car yet but i'll hit it with a temp gun and figure it out maybe when i get some time once its running.

Kev

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That's a lot of boost. 27psi with a 70% efficient compressor on a 70°F day means a discharge temperature of 284°F. A 70% efficient intercooler will drop the temperature 130° to 154°F. According to a chart I found that's a density ratio of about 2.376:1. So if you're really making 450hp turbocharged you should make 189hp normally aspirated, probably a little more in practice owing to less exhaust restriction and pumping losses normally aspirated.

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Joshua

This is very interesting. So what your saying is I have a 15 , 14 or even a 13 sec car without the turbo (3000lbs + 189 hp = 93 mph trap speeds). We will come back to this in the spring when I get accurate intercooler in/out temps and intake man temps. I do find it hard to believe since this is about what I had 20 years ago in the same car N/A and it was a pooch, and still is with the wastegate off. Later

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

http://www.youtube.com/c/turbo66valiant
Follow on Instagram - turbo66valiant
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/ryan.peterson.737

Also, remember Ryan has meth injection to help cool the air temps.

When I set up a thermocouple before the carb on my car (also with meth), the recorded air temps into the carb were about 10*f BELOW the ambient air temps. I checked on two days. Day one was a 75*F day and I was recording temps between 63-65*f at the carb. Day two was about 55*F and I was recording temps between 45-50*F at the carb.

Meth was injected after the intercooler but about 18 to 20 inches before the carb. This was with 24lbs of boost on a stock engine.

and, Ryan said "pooch"

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Please refresh my memory as to what year Slant came stock with copper head gaskets and O-ring decks?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Wouldnt a relatively stock slant be able to run decent times like for example a 189hp version of ryans car with no turbo since it has a 4000stall and what not?

Kev

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Please tell me how no2 is boost too? It's NOT!

The gasket does not change how a stock head flows or how the stock bearings, pistons, rings performed....etc The engine still ran fine with the stock head gasket...it just pushed water out under boost. And, If I recall, it still went 12's all "stock" and 11's with a new head gasket and o-rings. And, If I recall the bash-fest a few years ago, there were alot of doubters out there telling me to prove it. I did & I proved everyone wrong.

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11.02 @ 120.56

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY

Chassis dyno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc