Well today I painted the j pipe w flat aluminum and then baked it according to the instructions in the can. 250, 400, and 600 degrees for 30 min.

Got j pipe installed, had to enlarge holes in turbo flange for the size of bolts I'm using. So one gasket and then bolted on the turbo!!

Hooked up the oil line to turbo, then went to work on the drain. Used epoxy to stick the flange and fitting to oil pan, followed by two bolts and finally a smearing of silicone around all edges.

Tried the factory turbo drain but turns wrong way so out came cut off disc. Took two small pcs to MIG class to weld back together. Tomorrow I'll be able to use rubber line and hose clamps to finish that portion.

Still need to mount fuse block, relays, down pipe, run ignition hot for relays and voltage reg, and all the cold side. But, almost there.

Add that I need to fill w new oil, and water since changing to 180 stat. And wire up 2 speed fan switch, mount two 10" fans to shroud then mount the shroud, install o2 sensor in down pipe and so on... So not all that close but damn site further than I was.

I'll keep ya posted and try to add some photos.

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Well got a good whole day in at the wrenches.

Got the fuse block mounted and relay for the HEI done.
Ran the ignition wire so it closes the coil.
Filled w new oil
Filled w water, had to tighten top radiator hose.
Got down pipe installed, needs some tweaking for angles but works great.
Installed new lokar throttle cable as well.
Calibrated O2 sensor and installed.
Drain installed


So ran all the prechecks I could think of and tried to start it, turns out it wouldn't start on first try as I'd hoped.
Couldn't quite get it to fire off w out bumping the pedal for a squirt of fuel. Stumbled, then puffed up through the carb. Kept getting a backfire up through the carb.
Soo, off to checking things, tighten a couple of bolts and try again. Finally started to get it to stumble idle and build some heat since it was cold and no choke. And found the turbo feed fitting leaking and it's even a AN fitting, so torqued it some more.
Warmed up a bit and got it to stumble idle on its own at about 4-500 rpm while the wideband read 22! Kept hearing what I thought was an exhaust leak w a buck and stumble like it was trying to kickback or lighting off before it was supposed to. (This will come back to bite my ass later) Something couldn't be right. So go get the timing light and checked it. Timing mark showed way in the negatives!? So off to figuring out the timing. Moved the dizzy a bit and then finally got to the coil. Switch the wires on the module and it finally sounded a bit better but still not quite right.
So hand torch in hand I found a leak in the intake carb adapter. Of comes all that, ground down center bolt for intake exhaust and cut a whole new cork gasket for the adapter. Back on goes the carb. Much better running but still not right.
As I'm looking at the wideband I go back around to the front and there's my T adapter for oil just pouring out oil from the gauge fitting. So kill it and this time take the cut off disc to the copper line to make a better connection. Sealed up fine.
So back to figuring it out what's wrong. Got timing at around 8*, running but still a lil rough, and there was that sound. Well Inhad remembered that I swapped the intakes so I had this bad feeling come over me. As I'm hearing this noise it's like there's something loss and rattling. So I shut it off and pulled a plug from the center two cylinders. And sure enough I must have dropped something in there bc the spark plug was mangled!



So off to the parts to get a new plug and was gonna pick up new plug wires but couldn't find on the forum which set to get that goes w the Ecore coil.

Back to the house, tried a magnet, started to build an electromagnet and the resolved to just leave the plug out and start it up. Hoping it would push it out the plug hole. Figured that being in the cylinder it was probly smashed small as could be. Turns out it must have worked bc there's no more noise. Put in new plugged and smoothed out great. Hate to see in that cylinder though

Got carb hat put on and went to work on the intercooler.


Had to take a couple chunks outta the rad support so as to clear the couplings on the ends but goes in fine. Started to fab the brackets to hold it. Btw, cx racing intercooler bolts on mine are M8's. Then the gf came home so didn't get any further, had to get dinner in and spend some time w her.


So, what's a set of plug wires that works w a slant and Ecore coil?
Any recommendations on plugs?

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter

BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#

Operation Noble Eagle 03-05

Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07

Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Well its alive. Out driving today. Need another elbow fitting to ger cold side complete.
61 jets way too lean.
73 way too rich.
Taking 61's and gonna drill them w bits that correspond to jet size. Probly a 65-66 size.

More later.

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter

BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#

Operation Noble Eagle 03-05

Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07

Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Updated carb post on first page.

Cold side all ran except elbow from turbo to straight pipe run into intercooler.
Have a weird noise I'm chasing now, not sure exactly what it is but also need to clamp the exhaust a lil better instead of wire holding up the end.

Afr was all over due to taking a chunk outta the pipe so I could change the angle. It was sucking in fresh air and messing it up. So the shop couldn't weld all of it but did get a good start on it. So to drive and tune until I can weld it in class, I took fiberglass insulation and a hose clamp. Wrapped it around the pipe, over the slit, and clamped it. Good to go for now.

So far I'm betting that first gear will be almost useless w the 833 and 3:55's it's already a fast shift just in N/A.

Up next is to run the 1/8 lines for fuel pump ref and for hobbs switch to retard timing when needed. Also need to run line to the BOV. Install more relays for fans, headlights, fuel pump, and wrap some wires as well.

If I think of more ill post.
So, what's a set of plug wires that works w a slant and Ecore coil?
Any recommendation on plugs?
Did anyone else have a drop in oil pressure once going turbo?
With a new path I assume it bleeds pressure there?

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter

BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#

Operation Noble Eagle 03-05

Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07

Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

I had no drop in oil psi that was really measurable but I'm sure it was there.

For wires I used the Accel cut your own deal. There were ends for using E coils, or regular coil, and HEI or regular style ends. They were expensive at $60 but they're nice.

Are you limiting the distributor advance at all? Mine is limited at 18 mechanically, and it seems like it could go more without det but that's on my setup. I've been experimenting all over with different plug gaps and so far the results are up in the air. It's hard to say which is better. When I increase the gap, you smell less unburnt fuel in the exhaust and it runs better.

I too had an issue with 61 jets just now. 62 aren't any better, and thinking of going to 66. I am running a boost referenced power valve now. I found the old power valve helped ease it into a nice 11.8afr but then dropped down due to the vacuum going away on boost.

It's going to be real hard to tune the jetting or anything with that fresh air hole in the exhaust messing it up. I just went to a shop after making about 20" of downpipe and had them cut out half the old exhaust and they replaced it all with 2 1/4" for $120. There were a lot of bends to it to get around the kickdown and everything else - much more than I would care to have dealt with.

I'm hoping using that mechanical pump works out for you. I've heard bad stories about them and chose to just go to electric to start. It's a more expensive and time consuming approach for sure though.

This was the best mod i made to my carb:





But that was after really trying to make the vacuum power valve work - and it did - by basically making the fuel delivery awesome at WOT for about 30 seconds, then the afr would drop off as the vacuum went away.

Drive and tune, repeat. Had a cpl days of drive and tune. Just couldn't get the afr to be right or make since so off to the web to read more. Turns out some ppl use vent tube extensions. So off to the garage. Found the old dipstick tube fits perfect. Cut to length, bend, wedge it on, and off to test. Well all be it worked! Afr drops and stays more consistent. Still a wee bit lean. Need to drop a whole point for afr. I tend to eagle eye the wideband and not even pay attn to the boost gauge. Not too worried about the boost as long as the afr is right.
Need to pull all the plugs and regal them down from the 40's that I have for the HEI setup.
Also gonna do a full write up for a sticky on how to get a cheap setup that allows timing retard under boost. So bolo for that!
Going to have a new adapter made for the offy so that it clocks my carb back 90* which puts the butterflies parallel w the cylinders and a two bbl 2300 bolting on top since it seems they don't make one. Right now it's the 4bbl adapter w a 1" phenolic adapter from 4bbl to 2bbl. Which makes the butter flies perpendicular to the cylinders but also offsets them to the front two of the 4bbl holes which would make it favor the front 3 cyl.
Also going to try and get the exhaust done on Monday. It's a 3" down pipe that will make soft bends to get to the passenger side, go through a thrush welded muffler (3" in and 3" out) then doing a side dump in front of passenger tire. I want free flow and less noise. This should be just fine since I already ran that muffler in n/a form. I like the idea of sneaking up on ppl and then see the reactions when that turbo really whines

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter

BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#

Operation Noble Eagle 03-05

Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07

Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Yayy... I'll be watching for that!

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Love reading both of your threads Ssg Polhman and ProCycle. Keep up the good work guys! Lots of inspiration.

if your cruise afr is good but you need to drop a point under boost then open up the power valve channel restrictors. tiny bit at a time

Thats exactly what i been doing. Most people want to add jet but i know thats not how its done the right way. Tune first for NA then move to boost. Leave the jets alone, unless youre 4bbl then you can play w the secondaries.

Im also working a project to add fuel under boost. Yet to set up n try it but Ill post the findings when it comes time.

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter

BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#

Operation Noble Eagle 03-05

Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07

Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Have had a bit of time to drive around and play. So far I try to keep it under 10# but now and then it creeps over. Ive touched 14# once at 13 afr, man does it really scream.

Still not right w the wot afr. Usually starts at like 12's and end up shifting about 3500 rpm and 12.5-13 afr. So far no noticable knocking or pinging.

Funny part is that w the new 3" exhaust that even when I have it matted to the floor, its still not loud at all. Soo quiet that my son and gf was able to talk normal and have a convo all while Im playing and hitting 10#.

Going to start setting up for an 89 or newer tank, it will have an in tank efi pump which is more than enough pressure so ill have to run it through the fuel pressure regulator. Going to try that first and if it works out, ill use my walbro 255 for my additional fuel under boost. Still working that out as to how exactly I want to do it.

Also going to get a slant 904 and the v8 904 outta the shed and start working out the rebuild of the slant case w v8 guts. Gonna have to search here for the recommended rebuild kits to stand up to what Im doing. 3:55 and 904 should be quite fun and fast at 10# lol

Sure wish I had a mill like procycle so I could machine stuff at will.

Been working with the wastegate actuator, put on a heavier spring (came out of the oil pump from the engine I pulled) seems to really have made a diff. Holds the wastegate shut to build boost faster for sure. Just too much boost right now. Have to watch the gauges so I dont hurt things. Im a bit slow but Ill get a picture of the wastegate actuator I have set up.

This has all been on cheap 87 octane fuel. No knocks, pings, backfires etc. or at least that I've noticed. All for now, more as I go. Any questions etc, feel free to ask and ill try to answer and detail so that others can venture into boost land.

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter

BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#

Operation Noble Eagle 03-05

Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07

Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Careful what you wish for. It's a slippery slope. Once you have a mill EVERY job will require it.
You will end up wondering how in blazes anybody gets by without one.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

If I had one I'd already gabbed my offy adapter plate to turn my carb 90* and added a few things that I have in the works.

Would probly have milled my carb, the turbo snail, an injector bung, the intake opening, just to name a few. And that's just on this project, also have a 1956 inline chevy 235 that I'd love to mill the head. Also have a 54' inline 261 just in case

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter

BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#

Operation Noble Eagle 03-05

Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07

Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Havent given up on this. Just been busy w a move etc. still runs and drives fine pushing 8# of boost safely. Only using half of a holley 450 mechanical secondary rt now. Stock mech fuel pump, 87 octane, etc. when I get a chance Ill post more, clean up some posts, and add some small details here and there.

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter

BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#

Operation Noble Eagle 03-05

Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07

Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Please do! I just got a slanted 76 D100 and I plan on forced induction. Keep us updated, please!