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PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 7:43 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Location: New York
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kcuf wrote:
yeah if you want to keep it simple get a digital 6 or a msd BTM even if you want to go older non computer control, i'd rather computer personally

as others have said, it is certianly not enough to just set your base timing low, besides the fact you're hurting your power everywhere else by doing that as well, and as an extra tip, i'd be working on running it RICH untill such a time you have it all sealed up and ready to play with mixtures for a boosted setup, not the other way around.... thats how you break things


That MSD BTM looks really cool. I think it's a little bit excessive and pricey for what I'm doing at the moment though. Gotta save the $$ for those forged pistons! Haha

Thanks for the fuel tip. I'll run it rich while I sort out the kinks. Was just worried about blacking up my system with unburned carbons.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:02 pm 
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That is what I would do for the short term - weld the stock dizzy mechanical advance mechanism.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 5:23 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 6:18 am
Posts: 127
Location: Illinois
Car Model: 69 Valiant
My 2 cents worth is this:
1. If you want the engine to live with the turbo, you'll have to build it to handle it. Turbo engines require greater clearances on piston ring gaps and piston to bore clearance. The higher heat the turbo adds to the combustion chamber will cause failure if everything's setup fo non-turbo.
2. If you're going to run a carburetor, you're going to have to keep the A/F ratio richer than normal to make up for the poor fuel distribution in the intake manifold. Your going to have some cylinders run leaner than others. The only way to correct the fuel distribution issue is to run multi port EFI.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 8:14 pm 
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It's happening...

Image
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 8:24 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Location: New York
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The bottom end is being balanced and assembled at the machine shop now.

Going to give it a 214/214@0.050 (249/249 advertised), 112LSA, 0.450 Lift cam with 25deg overlap. And that should conclude the short block.

Bought a locking limiter plate for the stock dizzy, and am going to start with the 18-20 degrees of initial timing, locked mech advance to 0 degrees, and the vacuum advance attached per what you recommended Lou! Thank you!

Opening end gaps as Joshie mentioned.



NEXT is the top end...which I honestly have no idea what can even be done...

Thanks for checking in everyone! Been a long time.

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'76 D100


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 2:58 am 
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Smells like progress - great. Bowl porting and 1.7/1.44 valves make a big difference over stock. Keep us updated...

Lou

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 6:22 pm 
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant
This is a very interesting thread


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