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 Post subject: Re: 3/3/23
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 3:53 pm 
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Supercharged
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SpaceFrank wrote:
Can you give more details on your procedure? I've ruined a couple pistons doing this and would love any pointers you have.


Hi Frank, are you trying to remove and reuse pistons /pins or installing new pins / pistons onto existing rods?

Greg

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 Post subject: 3/12/23
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 4:10 pm 
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3/12/23:

Got some things accomplished today.

Finally got the repurposed piston squirter mocked up and mounted.
It has to be drilled from the outside of the block / oil gallery for tapping, then the hole on the outside of the oil gallery plugged.
The piston oil squirter I used was listed for Audi A3,A4, A5, Passat, Golf/GTI and Jetta.. It's a VW Part, but I don't know the part #.
I like this one because the cam can be installed once it is in place.
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I had to make a tool for it out of a 6mm hex wrench as the Torx T40 does not fit in the cam tunnel.
Good Use of some scrap metal and and old ratchet handle.
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Tap the Block from the outside to the inside.
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Mock up and reshape the squirter tube to the cam / oil pump gear interface.
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Retap the Outside hole for 1/4" Pipe Plug:
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Got some Painting done as well as installing the cam bearings.
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 Post subject: Re: 3/3/23
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 7:17 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Greg Ondayko wrote:
SpaceFrank wrote:
Can you give more details on your procedure? I've ruined a couple pistons doing this and would love any pointers you have.


Hi Frank, are you trying to remove and reuse pistons /pins or installing new pins / pistons onto existing rods?

Greg

Installing new pins and pistons onto existing rods. Previously I've set up a jig to hold the piston in a press, then heated up the rod small end as much as I could and held it in place by hand while pressing the pin down through the piston. But if I'm in a hurry and it gets a little cockeyed, the piston is scrap. This looks like you inserted the pin while the rod was held in a vice. Did you get the small end hot enough that the pin could be inserted by hand? If so, what gas were you using?

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 Post subject: Re: 3/3/23
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 8:28 pm 
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Supercharged
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SpaceFrank wrote:
Installing new pins and pistons onto existing rods.

Okay.


SpaceFrank wrote:
Previously I've set up a jig to hold the piston in a press, then heated up the rod small end as much as I could and held it in place by hand while pressing the pin down through the piston.

Okay, i am no expert on this, but that seems backwards to me - You are holding the Light, Cool part still, and futzing with the long heavy & hot part.


SpaceFrank wrote:
Installing This looks like you inserted the pin while the rod was held in a vice.

Correct. I have a somewhat free standing / pseudo soff jaws Drill press vise that I used for this one. Any Vise with some non marring jaws will do.

SpaceFrank wrote:
Did you get the small end hot enough that the pin could be inserted by hand? If so, what gas were you using?

Yes - I Probably Could have used Propane, But I did not want to futz around with this and by the 3rd one I had it figured out that I could do it quick and consistent for the next 3. I used Mapp/Pro.... Its in the Yellow Cylinders at the hardware Store With a bernzomatic TS4000T or TS8000T. Those other basic torch heads do not generate enough temperature at low ambient temps / bottle pressures (even with Mapp Gas) and prolly do not get the small end expanded enough for this work. you also can toss your Piston Pins in the freezer for a bit more work time if needed. (I did not do that, but thought about it) Yes the pins were inserted by hand. There is only about ~1sec of "work time before the Heat of the conn rod small hole transfers to the pin, and swells the pin in place. It also swells in the pin bore of the piston for ~ 20 Seconds then calms down and all is good..... swingin' pistons on the rods. I made a sharpie mark on my pins. Pins were 2- 15/16" Total length, I divided them into 3rds and made about 15/16" on the pin. When i Saw the mark come through the connecting rod then I stopped pushing and I was close enough to center. I had 2 pins that I was way off on and I had to do some creative fixturing on the Shop press to get them centered to my liking, but it all worked.

Alright, I think I got all of the questions for ya.
One last thought on your assembly..

Moving the pin through the piston to the rod should not be a problem. I had my pin started in the piston on a bench close by, once the rod was up to the temperature I felt was hot enough, i brought the piston over to the rod and just pushed it through, stopping at my mark, and it goes into the other side of the piston pin bore with no cockeyed fussiness.
As you know this needs to happen quick and be dead nuts on pretty much the first time.

Hope this helps.
UTG Has a video on this,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUX76rwzBTc
Its' not exactly the same as what I did, but end results are the same.

Greg

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Last edited by Greg Ondayko on Mon Mar 13, 2023 4:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 8:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Thanks! I hopefully won't need to do this again for a while, but I'll remember it when I do.

I'm also really enjoying seeing your work on Grüne Hölle. Sorry for the interruption!

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2023 4:43 am 
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Supercharged
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No Problem glad to be of some help to another crazy lemonhead with a '64 dart.

Best of luck!

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 Post subject: 3/20/23
PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2023 7:01 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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3/20/23:

The IJ Crank Scraper arrived. It took a while. Ordered in January.
Did a little placing and mockup for now.
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Now off to pull the old engine and transfer the head / externals and tins.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2023 8:58 am 
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Are the pieces that go down into the pan "fixed" or do the move?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2023 9:28 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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Location: St. Louis Park, MN
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Greg, make sure there is plenty of clearance where the oil dip stick goes through the crank scraper.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2023 3:08 pm 
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Supercharged
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Exner Geek wrote:
Greg, make sure there is plenty of clearance where the oil dip stick goes through the crank scraper.


10-4 , Thanks Seymour It seems there is already plenty of room but the stick angle can be quite sever when it gets into the pan rail area.


Will double check on assembly.

Greg

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 Post subject: 3/27/23
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2023 5:05 am 
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Supercharged
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3/27/23:

Engine is ready to Pull,
Got the Fluids Drained, Exhaust Dropped and the Transmission Pulled.
The Oil did not look terrible on the drain so that's good. It will be interesting to see what happened inside this one.
Taking bets on oil pump gear?
Something else goofy?
Spun Bearing?
Who Knows?
In this car the Drivers seat Needs to be removed along with the inner Driver sill plate to remove enough carpet to access the screw in cover that I made for transmission removal.

Hope this old engine is on the stand by the end of the week. We shall see!

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 Post subject: 4/1/23
PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2023 7:43 am 
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Supercharged
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4/1/23:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2023 11:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Wow! Those look super dooper nice! :D They almost look too nice for a street car. I see more more speed for Ruster with them!! :D :D

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2023 7:15 pm 
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Supercharged
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Rick Covalt wrote:
Wow! Those look super dooper nice! :D They almost look too nice for a street car. I see more more speed for Ruster with them!! :D :D


Thanks Rick, They will be going on the Grüne Hölle Dart. - Would like to buy another set for Ruster Sometime too.. but we'll see how these work first.

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 Post subject: 4/1/23
PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2023 7:23 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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4/1/23:

Got the Engine Pulled today.
Also got some air filters fitted on the EFI ITB's.. Still hafta fiddle with some Throttle Cable stuff as well as some linkages too. I dont know that I will like these bugeye filters but I can fuss with other options later.. at leat they will keep small animals and rocks out of the engine.

Hopefully tomorrow will be a pull down of the Engine and Begin to clean the tins and possibly see what might have gone wrong.

Filters fitted:
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Engine out - ready to be put on the stand for some disassembly.
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