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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2022 4:46 pm
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Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 convertible
1965 Valiant, 225/6.
The car came with the wrong carb and the throttle linkage is a bit rigged together. I've acquired the correct carb (Carter BBS) and am about to tackle the swap. Today, I noticed that the linkage arm seems to be at a different angle than the linkage on the new carb. The pedal/throttle rod is more horizontal, and the linkage on the carb is at an angle.

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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 1:25 pm 
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Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 convertible
When I put the throttle plate adjustment screws for the carb on the stop, the plate is just barely open and you can see that the attachment point for the rod is at an angle.
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 1:26 pm 
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Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 convertible
Got the Carter BBS installed today and the linkage definitely does NOT line up. When I attach it, it holds the throttle plate in the carb open and the idle screw isn't on the stop.
When I disconnect the linkage and operate the throttle by hand, it idles well and is very responsive.

Is it possible that someone modified the linkage to work with the '82 carb?
Is there an adjustment on the linkage that I can do to change the orientation of the "hook" on the end?
If I adjust the linkage, will that change the transmission kickdown linkage (something I REALLY don't know anything about)?

HELP! Please!


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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 1:26 pm 
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Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 convertible
Oh, and I installed the rubber isolation damper thing correctly before installing it.... :D


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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 3:21 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

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Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 convertible
I may have figured it out. The carb I received is not what was pictured. The arm where the idle screw/throttle plate/stop attaches is different in the ad from what I received.
There are some #'s on the carb they sent, will that tell you anything?
The carb I though I was getting is marked 6-1697. The carb I received is 6-1695.
There are obvious differences in where the throttle arm and idle stop screw attaches. I sent the seller a message....we'll see what happens.


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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 7:25 am 
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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scott s wrote:
Oh, and I installed the rubber isolation damper thing correctly before installing it.... :D

Nope. You have the plastic "insulator" installed backwards in the bracket on the carb.
Go to https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/ and download the service manual. Carb info is in section 14, and linkage info is page 14-73

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65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2022 11:49 am 
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The numbers you found on the carb aren't helpful—those are casting numbers; these carbs had their model ID stamped on a small aluminum plate held on by one of the front carb bowl screws. Once that breaks off (or is removed and not replaced), there's no more positively identifying the carb. That said, this what you have gives every appearance of being a 1965 or 1966-model carburetor, and it doesn't matter which it is, because either year of carb would fit and work fine on your car. There is nothing the matter with this BBS carburetor. Its throttle lever is correct and correctly oriented. If your throttle rod doesn't easily snap into the (right-way-round) rubber bushing; if your spring-loaded throttle linkage wants to pull the carb open rather than closed, then the linkage is not configured correctly. Sounds like someone monkeyed with it. Charrlie_S has the right advice.

And yeah, the fat end of the rubber bushing goes in the hole, not in the slot.

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2022 7:47 am 
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Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 convertible
It was 100% the linkage WAY out of adjustment to fit the (wrong) 1982 carb. I had to extend both the pedal rod and the kickdown rod. It works great now.

I do have about the kickdown function, and I'll post in the transmission section, too.

I had to make some pretty big adjustments on my throttle pedal and kick down linkage when swapping carbs. The P.O. had the wrong carb hooked up and had it all out of whack. You can see the newly exposed threads in the pics.

Attachment:
pedal lengthened.jpg
pedal lengthened.jpg [ 231.99 KiB | Viewed 170 times ]

Attachment:
lengthened kickdown.jpg
lengthened kickdown.jpg [ 174.68 KiB | Viewed 170 times ]


Car runs great and goes through the gears nicely now, but doesn't kick down in passing gear.
I see HOW to adjust the kick down, but I can't access it in my garage.
Will I damage anything if I drive it like this until I get it to a shop with a lift?

To clarify: it shifts fine up and down through the gears. Shifts are soft and normal/not harsh or clunky.
Under light throttle, hits 2nd around 15mph, 3rd around 22-25mph.
Under harder acceleration, it holds the gears a little longer but still shifts great.
What it DOES NOT DO is drop from 3rd to 2nd if I punch it, like trying to pass a car.


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