BRING IT ON BABY!!!!!!!!!!

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

Welcome back my friends to the show that never ends.
We're so glad you could attend, come inside, come inside!

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Im Canadian........so forgive me for asking.....whatsa Pooser?

........do these guys also crave peanut butter?..........<wink wink>

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Hey Sandy,

We ain't no "Poosers!"

We're "Posers..."


So, to put it simply... We "Talk the Talk, but don't Walk the Walk!"

I hope to soon graduate from being a "Poser" to someone who actually DOES belong to the group of Slant 6 Drag Racers.

As for Wayne... Well, that remains to be seen...

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I did!

See here: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46727



I guess I'd better start gettin' busy if I'm gonna meet my deadline of having this car ready to race by the start of the 2012 season...

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

The new engine has been run for about 20 minutes. Once I fire it up again to re-torque the head and set the valves we'll begin the process of swapping the new engine into the Challenger.

2012 Racing season Here We Come!!

I'm FOCUSED!!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Good day, Is it recommended to re torque the head and adjust the valves after initial break in? Is there something different with slants? I have a new engine that was run in on a dyno and I know that we didn't do that after the runs. The engine is in the car now but I haven't got it running yet.
Thanks Derek

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70 Duster 238'', four speed ,3:91's, 500 Elde, Hookers
68 Dart 4 dr 225, completely original

Head gasket retorque is NOT recommended on modern composite gaskets, but this is a 13:1 motor and I don't know about his gasket. I don't see how a retorque can hurt anything.

Valve lash should always be redone after cam break in and a few warmup cycles, IMHO.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hey Derek,

I'm not an experienced engine builder myself, but the person that built this engine (Gary Bruner) and others have suggested that the head be re-torqued and the valves checked/set once the engine has been broken in and it is at operating temperature.

I've only built three engines so far, but I've done this with both Slant 6 engines. The V8 I built has hydraulic lifters, but I did re-torque the heads after initial break in.

I hope this helps.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Gary said more like 14:1 at Clay City! It's a copper gasket.

Once I've got everything re-torqued and set I'll do a little testing with a compression tester.

I also dug my old Auto Math Handbook out of storage and read through it again recently. There is an easy method of verifying compression with the engine assembled and on a stand (basically "ccing" the whole cylinder rather than just the head protion). I'll do that too before I put the engine in the Challenger.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Thanks for the input, I think I will do both.
Regards
Derek

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70 Duster 238'', four speed ,3:91's, 500 Elde, Hookers

68 Dart 4 dr 225, completely original

Sounds like a good plan Derek.

Do you have a thread started for your car or engine build so people can follow along? We like doin' that!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Mike (12) and I wandered over to the garage for a couple hours yesterday.

After doing some yard work we decided to do a little car fiddlin'...

We drained the water out of the Duster and the oil & tranny fluid out of the Challenger in preparation for the "Big Swaparoo".

We almost got the Challenger off the jack stands... The slicks go flat when left sitting and I couldn't find my air chuck. The last time I used it was to air up the tires on the Suburban and Uhaul trailer as I left for Clay City. I was in a hurry and didn't put it back in its usual place...

The tile in the basement is all done except for the baseboards, so I'll swing by the garage a couple nights after work this week.

I think I'll fire up the Duster (after putting water back in it ) to pull it out of the garage and turn it around for the engine pull.

We would have done that yesterday, but the battery I use to start it up is in the Dart (which is still at the glass shop... )

I'm always working around other things and little issues as they crop up, but rest assured...

I AM FOCUSED!!!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I got the engine pulled out of the Challenger and onto an engine stand last night.

I also found the missing air chuck (it had fallen under the empty solvent tank where I usually set it )

I did pull the Roller Rocker arms off, but resisted the urge to tear into it any further.

The next time I'm at the garage I'll start pulling the engine out of the Duster to move over into the Challenger.

I'm FOCUSED!! :twisted:

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Well Rob I actually didn't start a tread on my build yet, but I think I will. I will need to sort out how to post pictures properly, I have taken them right from the start and now I am nearly finished. I was initialy inspired to build a slant from the efforts of Greg,Slantzilla and Doc presented on this site, I really got serious once I had a conversation with Mike Jefferies about my engine build.
His advice was really helpfull and I have a much better understanding of extracting performance out of these engines, just like he said ''it is about the combination of parts''.
I went out to California to the spring fling in 2010 and met Guzzi Mark, he started his race car for me and we compared our engine builds which where similar (mine is a street/strip car). He was very gracious and just hearing that thing run got me working harder than ever to get mine finished as soon as I got home.
This site has been a great resource and I look forward to updates, I will follow up with pics and more info next week.
Good luck with your swap.
Thanks & regards
Derek

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70 Duster 238'', four speed ,3:91's, 500 Elde, Hookers

68 Dart 4 dr 225, completely original