I think you ment camber where you wrote caster, but understood. The current alignment was not intended to be the end. Perhaps to cut to the chase, to get to negative camber that will result in some reduction in positive caster, which is limited due to the OE upper control arms, all things staying as they are, do you believe that would be a good swap, trading away some positive caster for some negative camber?

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I meant exactly what I wrote. Positive caster increases both stability and steering effort. Positive camber reduces cornering grip.

Here are the 1965 AMA specifications for the Valiant showing the small amount of positive caster on manual steering cars and the small amount of positive camber for all.

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/am ... oad_img=23

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Joshua

Josh, I agree that the alignment specs for a 65 Valient that you linked are exactly like the stock 68 Barracuda specifications that I had listed in this alignment posting.

Also, I have not welded in place any of the adjustments. I like to start someplace repeatable, right now for caster and camber it is with the adjusters clocked in their max position.
I plan to drive the car, do test runs then make adjustments to feel the results. That is why I went through the process of developing my own tooling-process for garage alignments.
I will be doing the alignment thing again.

The chart below lists several alignment settings for Mopar torsion bar cars. Where I am starting aligns to Max Street Performance. Again, there is no guarantee the alignment that is on the car is optimized or that is will it will stay. Its all part of the process.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I have set my cars up quite close to those Max Street Perf specs since about 1998. Works well. Project V is a bit more aggressive with the caster (+5 or +6) and camber (-1 to -1.5).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

That Max Street Performance line should read -.75 to -1.0° camber. Never, ever do you want positive camber when seeking grip.

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Joshua

Agreed!

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

some just don't read well.

For Josh,,, I had posted OE alignment specs for a 68 Barracuda that clearly showed there were different specifications for manual and power steering cars.
yet Josh was compelled to post alignment specifications for a 65 Valiant that showed the same thing. Think man,, why do you think I posted those OE 1968 specifications?

And although I had written that, this is an initial set and my plan was to drive the car and make set up changes from there, I get another lecture on camber from Josh.

Then Lou jumps in and there is more noise.

I can honestly say that I posted the exact same post at FABO and there folks did pick up that this was a initial alignment and having the ability to do so in ones garage in an orderly - repeatable manner was interesting.

.org,, brash responses for folks that don't read the initial post, but have all the answers, and their answers are what was posted in the initial post.
FABO,, interesting responses on the method. A little Q and A,, that was informative for all

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

John,

I missed that you posted the original alignment specifications. I see how my posting of the early alignment specifications seemed like a lecture. This is a long thread covering many subject areas and I didn't get all of it. My mistake.

The photo of various performance alignment settings has an clear (to me) error. Your posts suggested to me that you hadn't perceived the error in that chart and thought that you were in that alignment range. You're not. There are serious ramifications to having the camber that much positive. I kept trying to make that point and it wasn't well received.

It's likely that your car, with the present alignment will drive pleasantly enough. But when pushed your car will not follow the intended direction of travel and will leave the road nose first with the front tires at a severe angle to the car's actual direction of travel. This is severe understeer.

Being able to align to the numbers is all fine and good, but knowing what these various alignment settings will do to the behavior of the car is arguably more important. Fred Puhn can help and at this point in time for only $8. https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/how-to-ma ... 0912656468

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Joshua

Ok, Thanks for the insight, I will read the article posted.

Lets move on,,
I got AC work to finish today,,
Outdoor temps in the low 70's, maybe one of the last days this year for this kind of work.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Hi John,

It was not my idea to add noise to the conversation, only to share experiences with my cars. I am sorry if the way I presented that upset you, or if that information was unwelcome. I will try to be more careful.

Best wishes,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

the last six days in were 100% dedicated to developing an alignment technique and finishing the AC install,, good news is both are achieved.
The alignment study is in the previous posts, the AC install is in this post.

Videos of the:
* alternator and ac compressor belt alignment
* dash view showing air air temp, note voltage with ac engaged, blower on high, electric fuel pump running, MSD box firing, condenser fan on,,,
* MS3 screen shot engine vitals with the ac running

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOjmu97 ... e=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHav_nt ... e=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JoZze4 ... e=youtu.be

Photos of the

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Drove the 68B out of the garage last Monday and around the neighborhood. I don't have plates on the car so I don't want to go to far. Also wanting to test things out for reliability.
In the neighborhood streets I stayed below 25 mph,, with the alignment the car felt great, previously even at 25 mph or below the car just did not feel stable, as it was not aligned at all.
It does have a 'place to start' alignment and it feels great. The steering effort is much reduced from what it was,,I believe it will be fine,,Once you are rolling it is just point and go.

There is a lot of tuning to do on the motor, but it starts easily and seems to accelerate willingly.

The one issue is, I had the AC on while driving around, plenty of cold air out of the vents. Pulled in the drive way and let the car idle. Well,, the fan controller for the second fan did not activate and the engine got hot. I had a bolt in a cut off piece of heater hose plugging the heater hose connection at the water pump, It got hot enough while idling to blow that plug and probably two gallons of water - anti freeze out. The temp gauge was pegged at the hot end. I shut down the motor, let it cool re filled the radiator then re started it. Later, perhaps this weekend I will do a compression test and see if anything got hurt. Started fine, no knocks or anything else unusual,, I have read that one way to break a new motor is is the way you intend to run it, this may be OK.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I'd retorque the head bolts after a serious overheat incident.
Your car is coming along nicely.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

a little more progress on the 68B, installed a front spoiler. If this CV 19 hangs on I am going to run out of things to do. A few more loose ends to tie up and this car can sit in the garage over the winter, ready for 2021.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

You got a long wait for 2012!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6