these sim runs are all at 8.7 or so compression for regular gas,,
I have not had the time to go back and re run my final choices,, seems like I been raking leaves for a week now,,,,,not done yet

I am thinking that if you want to run a higher compression you can also run a bigger cam, (more duration) as the two go hand in hand

say if i just went with a 9:1, would the stock cam be a worse choice over the rv-10.

_________________
1976 Plymouth Feather Duster
2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7l v8

if you are asking how much performance gain there is with just a cam change or just a compression increase,, that would be better answered by someone with with more hands on slant engine experience than me. I am well into my first slant engine build, but don't have wheels turning yet,,may be best for you to put out a new post and get a response from someone that ran the RV-10 and changed compression.. and / or look at the Engine Build Matrix posts.

is the phrase "what starts well ends well"

I hope so

today shipped the cam from the 83 D-150 off to Oregon, and here is a photo to prove that it did happen
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 349963465/

could not find a suitable box, but I did have a 4.5 in diameter piece of PVC that was the right length,, so with some bubble wrap,,it went in that.
Per UPS,, Oregon will get it next Thursday..

Also, ended up changing the cam specs slightly
went with the Oregon 1333 intake for the intake grind, 212/256
and a Oregon 1527 intake for the exhaust grind,,206/250

ran all of that through Dyno sim,, looks good to me
remember I am targeting low to mid range power

here are links to the power and VE numbers

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 350067789/

the head that I will be using has the engine builder OS valves,, I did some real mild clean up work on it, then had it flowed at CFM, a local shop
used those numbers in the calculations. For the stock simulation I used flow numbers for stock heads,,found on this forum. I'll post that stuff next.

it will be late Jan - Feb for the engine build and March before it turns a wheel,, but I am excited!

regards
DT

it sounds like you and I have similar taste in old dodge pickups! What did you do to your cylinder head aside from larger valves? what size are the combustion chambers? what did your flow #'s look like?

I have also prepped a head with the engnbldr valves and some port work. I will post those flow numbers when i get home. I am considering milling the head some before it goes together as my dynamic compression is seeming a bit low @ 7.3-7.5

here is the port flow data
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 351550165/

first sheet is the report from CFM
second is a work sheet
column A,, the CFM data, tested at 28..
column B,, data found on .org from Fannie G, from back in 2009, stock head,, I did re calculate that data to make it 28 inches test pressure
column C,, ported data from FG,, again adjusted
column D,, per CFM,, reading obtainable with a backcut on the intake valves..

per CFM,, 220 to 250 would be the absolute max with the 1.700 valve size..

my bore is only .030 over.. so at the lower valve openings, seeing the shrouding effect,,on this head, I did smoothing in the bowl and valve guide and flattened the short side radius ,,did not do anything to open up the port arms or port entrances.

regards
DT

Wow those HP and TQ graphs do look impressive.
Where did you end up setting your LSA?
Are you modifying the cam timing from straight up in your final build?

I have another thread going for the '84 D-100 that you have already responded to. The head is getting gone over now. Next I will be taking in a spare block for rebuilding so my down time will be at a minimum. Portland Engine Rebuilding is doing the work.

Ty, Ray

Did this project die out or move to another thread? I'm still interested in the hydraulic cam results. Also looking to inject mine - how would cam specs change if any from carb to efi?

I have my built engine with hydro and 1333 reversed cam that I am in the process of changing tin and painting, then it will go into my 84 D-100

Ray

The EFI guys can chime in at any time, but from I understand, in general you may want to increase LSA (112-114* or more)/ decrease overlap in order to keep your charge in the cylinder. You lose a bit of scavanging effect but keep the uncombusted oxygen from going out the exhaust & skewing O2 sensor readings (though I imagine you could tune to compensate for that).
My background is auto repair on everyday cars so I don't know the capabilities/ limits of systems like MS/II/III etc.

_________________
63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Hello OleNatesOlds and MotoGrey (MotoG I was about to PM you to see how your D-150 was progressing..)

For mine its been a long and winding road,, May of 2012,, had the motor done, and set in chassis,, had the cab and bed off,,
ran the motor just enought to run in the cam and check it out.
Had a small oil leak inside the rear bell. But seem to run fine. I have another post going on the oil leak,,,.

At that time the guy doing the body work was calling, needed the frame back to finish the job ASAP>,, so I buttoned up the frame / motor , hired a carrier and shipped it back to the body shop.

It was then that Kenny, the guy doing the body work,, and a great guy, took a tumble down a set of stairs, wrenched himself good and also busted up his wrist.
So the finishing the truck and the rest of Kenny's body shop work all got way behind.
Fast forward to Dec,, I got the cab section (and frame and motor) back. Kenny still has the bed and hood.
Starting the week before Christmas and since then have made some good progress. Currently redoing the brake lines, which I wish I had done while the cab was off the frame,,. I have the fuel line ran, electric choke installed, radiator in place. If the weather would just warm up where I want to open the garage door, I would run the motor again.
Planning by end of Feb to have the mechanical work all done, then March will finish the electrical. Would like to take it for a ride early April. The low rpm high torque cam discussed in this article is in this motor, will know soon.
here are some recent photos

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 601345689/

DT, What was your reason to change the specs to the 1333 intake/1527 intake profiles. Seems like a step backwards in looking at scan0047 and scan0048 with the #14 and 14a cams. Seems like better mpg's from one of them. Did engine specs change between these sims so it's apples to oranges kind of thing?

It's worrisome that I might be limited on increasing LSA for my efi application due to the hardness depth. Were there factory cams with more LSA that I can start with or just get it re-hardened/cryoed after grinding my '69 225 1-bbl cam? Thanks

I would not change the LSA one bit if I were using EFI. You'll lose torque. The problem with overlap in relation to EFI is extra O2 in the exhaust at idle and certain low speed modes of operation. The way around that is to not run closed loop at idle.

With stock valve sizes you want the LSA around 105°. With a larger intake valve you can spread it out to 108° with a 1.78" valve. To keep the overlap in check you need to run shorter duration.

I'll try to find a link which goes into all the reasons why the LSA is so narrow, but it has to do mostly with the 225 being grossly under square.

_________________
Joshua

oldNatesOlds

orginally I was swapping intake and exhaust grinds to get to the Reverse Dual Profile configutation.

In talking with the folks at Oregon Cam, they mentioned that typically the exhaust ramp and valve action speed is less aggressive than intake profiles, so with swapped profiles, the effect would be to create a slow opening intake and a fast opening exhaust.

With the inherent valve shrouding issues on the slant, a fast opening intake seemed directionally correct. I decided to also go that way on the exhaust.

I liked the narrow lob sep for the reasons Josh mentioned,,

Hey Dad,
the Pics are sharp. Your work looks top notch.

Sorry to here about your friend. I hope he is doing OK.

I'm not doing the body on mine. What is the black you used on the inner fenders and firewall?

I see that you stayed with the super six intake. with water heating. My hooker 6 into 1 has a tube for heating the intake. I have a offy 4bbl intake that is prepped to use with the holley 2280 nos 2bbl that I got from Dan. But I am no considering staying with the super six manifold and saving the offy for something else. What do you think?

Still painting the engine, then it will be onto fabbing the new electric choke and rewiring for hei and the elimination of other '80s bolt on emissions controls. I am running my wiring right into the factory harness connector with the proper teminals for a factory look. Getting more exited as the paint is coming together. I got held up a bit last week with the crappy kerosene heater causing problems and making me sick from fumes. Think I'm now ready to invest in a small gas furnace connected into my natural gas line. I don't like being poisoned.

Are you still using the same cam that we both picked out previously? 1333 / 1527 ?