Are there several speedo cables (not just the core) on the /6's or are all the same?

It depends on your year. If your car is 1966 or newer they should be fairly interchangeable. Pre 1966 uses a different system.

So within a given year I wouldn't find a cable for an automatic trans different from one for a manual, or some such thing. Thanks.

But if I put a '71 trans in my '65 I would have a speedo cable problem?

Yes, you would have to use a '66 speedo cable. The '66 has the correct end for the '71 trans and the correct end for the '65 speedometer.

It also works great for aftermarket mechanical speedometers.

Thanks. All these details help.

What's the best way to lube a speedo cable? Obviously grease can go hard on you. Someone told me graphite was best. That would, of course, assume knowing how to clean out the old stuff.

Whenever the cable on my Duster gets noisy I squirt some liquid wrench down it, which contains graphite. Graphite in the tube works pretty good too.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Thanks. Does all Liquid Wrench contain graphite or do you have to search out a specific kind?

The kind in the yellow can is what I use. Go to your local hardware store and look around at the lubricant section. I think they make graphite in a spray can now.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

kesteb"]Yes, you would have to use a '66 speedo cable. The '66 has the correct end for the '71 trans and the correct end for the '65 speedometer.

IIRC a 67 speedo cable will also work correctly

I'm pretty sure that '67 A-bodies used the screw-on speedometer, while '68 went to the clip.

Cruise control cars use a 2-piece cable. I've had good luck lubing the cable by **gently** pulling the core out, wiping it off, and lubing it with graphite-impregnated speedometer cable grease (black oily stuff) as I inserted it back into the housing. I also tried Lubriplate white grease with good results.

In my '74 Coronet, the core came out toward the cruise control - when I pulled it the wrong way it stretched some and then tended to bind - I used a Dremel tool 409 cutting wheel to shorten it by 1/8" and all was fine again.

Did that binding cause the needle to bounce?

Yes- binding made my needle bounce +/-20mph or so. The cable core is a long spiral spring, but if you stretch it by pulling it the wrong way (as I did - only about 5-10 lb's worth) it doesn't quite return to the proper length again.

You can test it by loosening the nut or clip behind the speedometer to get an extra ~1/8-1/4" play and see if the bouncing stops. If that's the case, you need to shorten the cable by just a little.

The Dremel 409 blade is a thin abrasive disk that makes a very clean cut through the steel core - wear protective googles, as it is very easy to shatter the blade and pieces fly off at high speed. You can then use it to slight round off any rough edges before you put the cable back in too.

Sears often puts their (Dremel) tools on sale; they are not expensive and come in very handy.
I find that the I need an AC powered one for good cutting. The 2 tips I use most of the time are the little wire brushes and the abrasive cutting disks. The #409 disk is only a little stronger than a potato chip, so I'm not kidding about absolutely needing eye protection!

What's the deal with pre 66 cables? mine just broke
Allen

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1962 Valiant V-200
170 C.I. Super Six, HEI, Dutra Duals