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 Post subject: Hood stiffener adhesive?
PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 8:53 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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So I was working on my truck today (I know I know, no /6, but you guys are the first ones I think would have the answer I'm looking for), and I pulled the trashed factory hoodliner off to put on the Dynamat one I ordered, and all the adhesive that held the stiffener assembly to the hood sheet metal had come undone over the years and the entire assembly is about to fall off. My question is, what's a good non-corrosive adhesive for painted surfaces that'll stand up to years of extreme heat and cold? The new hoodliner is adhesive backed, so I can't really pull it off once it's installed.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 9:50 pm 
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Stiffiner... are you refering to the metal braces that criscross their way under the hood? If so then what you want is seam sealer. Body shop item.


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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 11:00 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Stiffiner... are you refering to the metal braces that criscross their way under the hood? If so then what you want is seam sealer. Body shop item.
Yeah the braces. I'm too used to the terms we use in when we work on our (60+ year old) jets :p

Would seam sealer work as a good adhesive? It looks like that's what they used on my truck, and that sure didn't last between then and now (it was made in late '87). I assume there is better stuff you can get than what they use at the factory?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 11:07 pm 
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Short of welding I don't think anything will be 100%. The hood flexes and warps every time you open and shut it. Maybe aftermarket stuff is stickier?

Regardless of what you end up using make sure you get all the old gook off so the new gook sticks well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 11:25 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Short of welding I don't think anything will be 100%. The hood flexes and warps every time you open and shut it. Maybe aftermarket stuff is stickier?

Regardless of what you end up using make sure you get all the old gook off so the new gook sticks well.
Well if I can get my hands on some I'll give it a shot. After spending 600 bucks to have my hood painted and tailgate repaired (severe rust damage), so I'm almost scared to even let my engine warm up without any kind of hoodliner underneath. I'm probably being overly cautious, but after ten years of a badly marred hood and surface rust everywhere, my truck looks new again and I want to protect it!

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to go out and find some stuff.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 11:34 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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So I was working on my truck today (I know I know, no /6, but you guys are the first ones I think would have the answer I'm looking for), and I pulled the trashed factory hoodliner off to put on the Dynamat one I ordered, and all the adhesive that held the stiffener assembly to the hood sheet metal had come undone over the years and the entire assembly is about to fall off. My question is, what's a good non-corrosive adhesive for painted surfaces that'll stand up to years of extreme heat and cold? The new hoodliner is adhesive backed, so I can't really pull it off once it's installed.
Not sure exactly what you're saying. Are you looking for an adhesive (for metal?) or a sealer or both...?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 11:35 pm 
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http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... pe=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... pe=PRODUCT

Both of those would work if you can handle waiting for it to be shipped. Epoxy pudy may work too and may be easier to find if you have a hardware store near by.


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PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2006 12:03 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Quote:
So I was working on my truck today (I know I know, no /6, but you guys are the first ones I think would have the answer I'm looking for), and I pulled the trashed factory hoodliner off to put on the Dynamat one I ordered, and all the adhesive that held the stiffener assembly to the hood sheet metal had come undone over the years and the entire assembly is about to fall off. My question is, what's a good non-corrosive adhesive for painted surfaces that'll stand up to years of extreme heat and cold? The new hoodliner is adhesive backed, so I can't really pull it off once it's installed.
Not sure exactly what you're saying. Are you looking for an adhesive (for metal?) or a sealer or both...?
A good strong, long lasting metal adhesive would be perfect, but failing that, I think the seam sealer would do the job too. I think the local Napa has 3M's urethane stuff in squeeze tubes, so I'll see what I can find tomorrow. Problem is, I can't remember if there wa a gap between the braces and the sheet metal, or if they were actually in contact. I have no for sure way of telling by just looking at it because the old stuff broke away so cleanly (cleanly?)

Pierre, don't send me to Eastwood! I've spent way too much there in the last couple months and I'm already broke! It's a weakness, I can't help it :cry:

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2006 12:38 am 
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Haha, its like lays potato chips, betcha can't eat just one.... I know, eastwood has lots of goodies.

IIRC the hood on my duster had the sealer oozing out of the joint and the brace was pushed as far up against the hood as the sealer would let it. You don't want it terribly strong to the point that its permanent, you still want to be able to pop it off when need be if you have to do it again. Seam sealer is just right for the job.

If you want to take a "I'm never going to look at it again" approach the epoxy pudy may be a better bet but instead of a scraper to get that off you'll be using a grinder.


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PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2006 12:45 am 
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A good strong, long lasting metal adhesive would be perfect, but failing that, I think the seam sealer would do the job too. I think the local Napa has 3M's urethane stuff in squeeze tubes, so I'll see what I can find tomorrow. Problem is, I can't remember if there wa a gap between the braces and the sheet metal, or if they were actually in contact. I have no for sure way of telling by just looking at it because the old stuff broke away so cleanly (cleanly?)
Ace Hardware has a couple things that would probably do the job. One is a urethane adhesive/caulk. In a regular caulking tube with a caulking gun it's thin enough to be squeezed into a pretty small crack. The same thing is available in a hand squeeze tube. I wouldn't touch it.

I can't think of the name of the other one. I think it's a urethane too, but probably too thick to get into a thin crack. I'd give either of them a couple days drying time to get maximum toughness.

I've heard of epoxies that aren't brittle/hard. I've never seen one available, but have seen it in action. Devilishly tough.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2006 4:38 am 
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I've used polyester caulk/adehesive with great succes in this field. Non-corrosive, paintable, flexibility is about right with paint so it doesn't look bad when painted as regular seam sealer. You can use that even on windshields for sealing purposes... waaaay more adehesive than regular caulks, chunkier, etc, After you use this, you may wanna drill some holes in the braces and fill'em up with that foam that comes in cans and expands after you apply it (construction use, or electricity isolant,, ya know?) so the hood would be really stiffer.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 1:00 am 
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Turbo EFI
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I've used polyester caulk/adehesive with great succes in this field. Non-corrosive, paintable, flexibility is about right with paint so it doesn't look bad when painted as regular seam sealer. You can use that even on windshields for sealing purposes... waaaay more adehesive than regular caulks, chunkier, etc, After you use this, you may wanna drill some holes in the braces and fill'em up with that foam that comes in cans and expands after you apply it (construction use, or electricity isolant,, ya know?) so the hood would be really stiffer.
I ended up using some epoxy formulated for metal that I found at the local hardware store. I pulled my hood off, layed it down flat and set a loaded plastic tool box on the brace to hold it against the sheet metal as the epoxy cured. Then I took the expanding foam and filled the braces with that, let that cure and stuck the hoodliner on. The hood feels great now! No engine noise gets out through it (and the cab is way quieter), plus when I close it, instead of getting a loud hollow "CLANG" I get a nice satisfying "THUMP" :D

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 7:07 am 
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I ended up using some epoxy formulated for metal that I found at the local hardware store.
1. What brand/kind?

2. Is the result flexible?

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 9:08 pm 
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I used 3M marine adhesive. Remains flexible and is very strong.

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Franklin
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2006 6:29 am 
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I used 3M marine adhesive. Remains flexible and is very strong.
Thank you. Thank you very much.


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