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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

I'd go with #2. Modify the existing lower bracket and just add the top part and some bracing.
Getting foggy now, isn't the centerlink stud facing the other way between the two designs? If so, change the Pitman arm to match.

How's that for a shot in the dark?

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

i did this about 12 years ago on my '63 dart. i had a '75 dart parts car that i cut the brackets off of and welded them in place of the original idler setup. worked ok, had some bumpsteer issues at first but was able to work them out with a file, couple of big washers and a welder as per the MP chassis book.

-james

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4. Build my own k-frame from scratch.

Now where did I put my magic wand.....

Their coming to take me away! Ho, ho, hee, hee!





Sorry, just laughing at myself.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

So it has been done.

Thanks!

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Here's another thought. I think they are over three grand, and I am betting they aren't set up for a /6, but it might not be out of the question for them to do a /6 one.

Too expensive for me, I saw it in an ad last night and thought I would share.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/alterktion/index.shtml

BTW, the ad said 62-76 A-Body available, the website here says 63-66 coming soon.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

https://www.reillymotorsports.com/store ... 255&page=1

Here's a better website. $3495 base, -$200 without motor mounts. /6 mounts are not available, nor is a swaybar option (unlike the 67-76 kit).

Just an FYI.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

What good would it be without a swaybar?????

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

No argument there. Makes no sense to spin it as a handling upgrade and not have a swaybar available.

On the other hand, maybe they are selling it as a drag setup. Seems like that's where it got it's start, on bigblockdart.com, because it solved header problems and removed frontend weight.

I'm not real impressed with the "Mustang II" brakes either. I was hoping they used a Mopar spindle so I could just put my brakes on it.

Oh well, at +$3000 it not like I'm debating about buying one.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

I didn't pay that much for my car to begin with. I doubt many of us did.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

Mine was free, if you don't count the $50 of gas it took to get it home.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

On second thought, I don't think the swaybar would have to be sectioned. I could either bent the bar ends inward a 1/2" on each end, or, if I didn't have swaybar end link mounts on the LCA's already (which I don't), I could just weld the tabs on 1/2" farther out. Then I could use any late A-Body swaybar I wanted.

Might change the effectiveness of the bar a bit (less leverage?), but I bet it wouldn't change much. Might be other problems, like wheel clearance, though.

Hmmm.....

Thanks for the responses. Glad to hear that at least something has been done before.

I was hoping some of the roadracers would chime in, someone who has messed with making an early car like this handle. Am I thinking too hard? Is it really a non-issue?

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Actually the sway bar would be more effective. The farther away you are from the pivot on the control arm, the more vertical movement there is. More vertical movement is more twist on the sway bar. Or for the same twist on the sway bar, less arm movement.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Anyone who has this setup will attest it handles phenomenally better than the stock setup. So much better in fact that the sway bar isnt necessary. this is not a drag only deal like some of the cheaper hack jobs being sold.

I just wish i could afford it.
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Glass pipes
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HONDA NSR125

I know of only two ways to reduce lean on a car, stiffer springs or add a swaybar. If it handles well without a swaybar, maybe it rides rough. Just doesn't make sense to me.

BTW, the 67-76 A-Body kit does come with a swaybar option. Leads me to believe that it isn't that the 62-66 kit doesn't need it, but just that they don't offer it.

When I said maybe they are selling it as a drag setup, I wasn't implying that it was a cheap hack job. I was only saying that maybe they were targeting the guys swapping big blocks into early Darts/Valiant/etc., and who don't really care if it can take an on ramp at full throttle. Not sure a swaybar would matter to them.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car