It takes more heat than brass as a rule, therefore more preheating. Nickel is excellent on cast and somewhat stronger than brass. But if brass holds, what's the point?

if you want that fixed fast use this http://www.belzona.com/1111.aspx

way stronger than jb weld

We've used it at work on a chiller ...6 months still good

a friend of mine used it on a cracked block also...

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http://www.cardomain.com/id/lncognito

Matadem is right if i was going to use a epoxy or what it is i would use belzona. We use this product where i work to put a like 40 grit rocks on a steel roller to grind the polyurethane off the back of carpet. We put the Belzona on the steel roller and sprinkle the grit on the roller the roller is 15 ft long. The problem we have after the 40 grit rocks wear down it takes a day of hard sandblasting with a special sand blasting material to get the Belzona off. Im talking about a serious machine that has two 2000 pound rollers turning about 650 rpm all day long. We redu this app about every two years. Thanks Ron Parker




Git Er Done

I did the same thing (left the anti-freeze to weak) in a Pontiac 389. I did a longer fix than add stop leak. Start with drilling a hole just past the end of the crack then tap the hole and screw in a brass or if you can find something better screw into the taped hole and cut of flush with the surface of the block, and repeat the process by drilling an overlaping hole into the newly surfaced screw and the block. Keep this up until you have the last hole overlaping the other end of the crack. This takes a bit of time but it is how they used to fix cracks in blocks many years ago.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

My Dad collects the old "One-Lunger" farm engines that were used in the early 1900's. Many of these engines were left in the field, with the hopper full of water, when they were retired. Cracked heads and blocks (irreplaceable) are a way of life.

Drill the holes on each end, then use a a heavy-duty grinder to cut a small v-groove along the length of the crack. Then go ahead with your epoxy fill.

This trick has worked dozens of times, and the engines cycle through the same temps that a car engine does.

-Mac

Um, yeah. Brain fart... I was thinking of draining the rad for some reason...lol.

Anyhow, thanks for all the insight people. This forum rocks.

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1964 Canadian Valiant Convertible.

By the way, that Belzona stuff looks insane... if what their site says is true, I should be able to make a completely new block out of their stuff... pistons and bearings too Crazy.

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1964 Canadian Valiant Convertible.

You want to come down here and sand blast a 15 foot roller about 8 hours to get it off. I help put this product on the steel roller and sprinkle the 40 grit rocks on the steel roller. And this machine does not loose any grit the grit wears out. What other product would you put 40 grit abrasve to a steel roller and run for two years. Thanks Ron Parker
Ps What i see work is what i use







It Aint Over Until I Win

Any idea where I can buy Belzona?

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1964 Canadian Valiant Convertible.

This product is made in the UK we have a Belzona rep here when we do the rollers. It takes a case of each product ie like adhivse and hardner and two 5 galion buckets of grit to do two rollers. You can go there web site but i did not see a lot of dealers. PS the Belzona that we use is the 1321 cermic steel. Thanks Ron Parker









It Aint Over Until I Win