I just found a problem (and, therefore, potentially a solution) that may have been mentioned here before, but I haven't seen it.

My '65 Valiant has an "instrument cluster voltage regulator" or as the FSM calls it "voltage limiter." I discovered that the case connection was broken (as well as the unit passing through 12V instead of ~5V).

This little jewel has apparently nothing but a strip of copper foil connecting it to ground.

Am I correct in thinking this connection IS to ground (Altho refering to it off handedly numerous times, the FSM says almost nothing about the actual limiter itself, it's location, connections or internals.)

In any case, while the foil strip connection appeared to be intact a slight brush against it showed it was completely loose. Assumedly this means something What measures, other than cluster or PCB replacement, should one take to remedy this.

Thanks. That confirmed (without dismantling the cluster) that I was right that it connected to ground.

Any suggestions about the foil connection? I'm assuming it must represent some sort of fusing?

My suggestion: Get rid of the old regulator, and use a solid state regulator. I even have an extra, if you want my Radio shack 7805.


Greg

How-to articles on the solid-state IVR:
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-i ... tor64.html
http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/elec/11.html
http://www.imperialclub.com/Articles/GaugeRepair/

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I'm still guessing about the "fuse" foil but thanks.

Well, there's something I wish I had heard of a week ago. Apparently the voltage is much more stable with these replacements.

Thanks.

How about another suggestion? Have you seen any instrument cluster PCBs anywhere?

I did Dan's 9V battery test and the guages work. I put a regulator in and they don't. Definitely getting juice in on the hot wire, so it looks like the PCB. I'll probably pull it out and see if I can fix it.

Thanks

It does sound like you may end up soldering jumpers on the PCB. This may look a little ugly, but it should work fine, especially if you are naturally a neat solderer.

Ten years ago, when I was commanding a US Army Target Acquisition Battery (special type of field artillery unit) in Sarajevo, one of my warrant officers was notorious for needing extra things to do, or he would get bored and depressed. People would occasionally even break things on purpose, just to make him happy. He was in hog heaven when somebody got a computer monitor shipped from home, and the internal PCB was all smashed. It kept him busy for days, He soldered all the bits together with commo wire, and while the monitor didn't work with all frequencies and resolutions, it worked on most of them, and was considered a success.

What's commo wire?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

it has four copper strands, and four steel strands for strength, insulated in some type of weatherproof plastic. It is commonly called WD-1/TT, and it is extremely common in the ground forces for voice and even data communications. It is only one pair, so any sort of comms that you can engineer are very serial in nature.

Here is some crappy Iranian version. It looks like they are skimping on the strands.http://www.ieimil.com/army/wire%20field.htm

This site has the real deal, as well as the types of voice equipment that you would use it with. http://www.tacticomusa.com/wire.html

Thanks. I try, but I don't do as much soldering as I used to - not as sure choosing the right size tool. I remember such antsy days - barely.

Thanks

And, as I recall, so tough and abrasion resistant you could almost use it as rock climbing rope?