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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 10:55 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:20 am
Posts: 208
Location: Lyon, France
Car Model:
Hi there!
I recently machined off the 1bl. plate of a spare intake manifold. I want to weld a new plate adapted to my 2bl. (a solex PAIA). What can I use to weld it?
Since it is cast iron, I'm careful cause I heard a lot of stories about bad welds, cracking... Can I use stick/MIG welding? What kind of rod should I use?
Thanks for your help

Marc


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 12:29 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13105
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
When I made my home-made two barrel intake I just set my Arc welder to the maximum setting and blasted away. Of course, my weld failed a few months later so I don't know how adviseable it would be to do this. I will check what rods I was using.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:59 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:47 pm
Posts: 445
Location: Runge, TX
Car Model: 1974 W100; 72 Dart
if arc welding you need nickel rods.

i would use acetylene and fluxed brass brazing rod. but that is just because i have that stuff available.


sb


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 5:21 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 6:43 pm
Posts: 976
Location: SoCal
Car Model: Toad Wagon
I had occasion lately to fill a 3" hole I had to make in the thermostat pocket on the float's slant. I elected to mig (mild steel wire) an undersized plate inside the lip and do a fill braze on the weld to be sure it sealed. Several heat-ups so far and it looks good.

For a surface mounted plate I'd likely just go with the brazing and back it up with drill and tap through both layers together for the carb studs.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:27 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:17 pm
Posts: 221
Location: NW New Jersey
Car Model:
If I may offer an alternative. Drill a series of small holes around the perimeter of the adapter, then one at a time drill through the hole into the intake. Go back and thread that hole in the intake, and open up the hole in the adapter a bit bigger. Use something like an 8-32 screw. After you have the first one done, then go back and knock a second hole in the manifold, running the drill bit down another one of the holes. Again thread and open up the hole in the manifold. After the second one, you can drill the rest of the holes from the adapter to the manifold. Doing it this way ensures that the holes line up PERFECTLY!

I do exhaust manifolds this way to ensure a good seal and sufficient strength for the turbo conversions.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:27 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:17 pm
Posts: 221
Location: NW New Jersey
Car Model:
If I may offer an alternative. Drill a series of small holes around the perimeter of the adapter, then one at a time drill through the hole into the intake. Go back and thread that hole in the intake, and open up the hole in the adapter a bit bigger. Use something like an 8-32 screw. After you have the first one done, then go back and knock a second hole in the manifold, running the drill bit down another one of the holes. Again thread and open up the hole in the manifold. After the second one, you can drill the rest of the holes from the adapter to the manifold. Doing it this way ensures that the holes line up PERFECTLY!

I do exhaust manifolds this way to ensure a good seal and sufficient strength for the turbo conversions.
http://powrehaus.com/index.php?option=c ... ey=5&hit=1

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 7:11 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:20 am
Posts: 208
Location: Lyon, France
Car Model:
Ok, thanks guys!
I guess I'll just go the arc welding way cause' I'm not really comfortable with brazing... not that I am with arc welding! :lol:
Some friend of mine told me to do it with a rod for stainless steel. Is that the nickel rod we're talking about?

Mike, about the small holes, why not drilling through the adaptor and the intake at the same time (except the two first holes of course...)?
It doesn't really change a thing but I'm asking in case there would be a reason...

Thanks for your help!

Marc

P.S : Mike, I'm eager to read your article about these screen and power plates! 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 2:11 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
Can't remember exactly which rod it is, but there is a specific rod type for cast iron.

Also, and most important from what I have experienced - make whatever you are welding as hot as you can before you weld it - while you weld it - and for as long as you can - after you weld it.

Use a torch or something similar to heat it up - red hot is not too hot - then weld it with whatever you are going to use - and then put some sort of box or cover over it so it takes as long as possible to cool down.

Best way to make sure what you are welding lasts without cracking etc.

Best help I can offer,
Good luck with it,
Dan

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'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:10 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:17 pm
Posts: 221
Location: NW New Jersey
Car Model:
You could just as easily drill 2 holes, finish them, then drill the rest in one shot. With the exhaust manifolds, there is only a thin strip to drill into and I mark where the holes go first so that I don't miss.

When I weld the cast iron, I use my mig welder (since I have it). I heat up the area with a torch, then keep the flame on the area I'm welding. I set the mig for gas, but don't turn the gas on. The flame chases the oxygen away just fine. After the weld is applied, I work it with the flame for awhile to get a "set", then allow it to cool in the oven at about 250 degrees.

Mike

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