How much is one in decent shape worth?

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

It all depends what you want to do with it. For a race engine, zip. For a restoration, to add value/unneiqness to the vehicle, more. Just remember, even if the block is good, the head gaskets, and rear main seal, is getting harder to find (read more expensive).

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

So my two aluminum blocks and complete gasket sets won't fund my retirement then?

Speaking of aluminum blocks, anybody know what modifications need to be made to a lower oil seal retainer to make it work on the top?

I guess I should rephrase my question. What is a fair price for an aluminum block in good condtion? The one I'm going to look at has minor pitting on the deck according to the present owner. I should get a look at it today.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Tough to come up with a concrete (or aluminum!) number for you. There're a lot of variables that determine the block's worth. Early or late style, bore size, presence/extent of corrosion or other damage.

Why do you want to make the oil seal mod?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I was told that the upper oil seal retainer was based on the C.I. lower seal retainer and is slightly modified. I'm just wondering what the modification is.

Well I looked at it. The Aluminum block, actually complete short block, looks to be in excellent shape. Very little wear in the cylinder bores and extremely clean water jackets. On 3 cylinders there are some very small grooves which I initially thought were machine marks at the top of the cylinder in on the water jacket side. They are probably no more than 1/8" wide and at most 1/16" deep and probably less than that. The owner tells me that is the corrosion that is typical of these blocks but it certainly looked minor and very manageable to me. The reason I'm wondering about the worth of it is that it is part of a package that includes a very solid '62 Signet and assorted parts including the aluminum short block and a complete cast iron engine. I don't know which engine is original to the car, if either, as the engine is not installed in the car. I am hoping to sell some of the micellaneous bric-a-brack to offset some of the cost of buying the car.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

In the bright light of day I found a spot of corrosion worse than those I had seen earlier. Is it a deal breaker?

http://www.dodgetruckworld.com/gallery/ ... 329222.jpg

here are some more pics; someone tell me what they mean, please.

http://www.dodgetruckworld.com/gallery/ ... 329225.jpg
http://www.dodgetruckworld.com/gallery/ ... 329224.jpg
http://www.dodgetruckworld.com/gallery/ ... 329223.jpg
http://www.dodgetruckworld.com/gallery/ ... 329221.jpg

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

That spot looks like it's eaten all they way to the iron. I wouldn't trust it to hold a head gasket. So, yes, for me that's a deal breaker. Also, the Maltese Cross indicated a .001" undersize crank, but with the X it means .010" undersize. The 5 digit number (21332) is the engine serial number. The numbers after SA22 should be the assembly date code.

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Joshua

Mmm...I don't like that, either. It would cause me to either reject the block or sharply reduce its value, depending on the situation. That said, given a thoughtful approach, it might be possible to effect a good and durable repair, perhaps using e.g. Belzona industrial metal epoxy.

SA22 1023 means this aluminum engine was made for a 1962-model car on October 23, 1961. Crankshaft undersize has already been decoded further up the thread.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That's probably why the engine was pulled from the car. Sounds like it's the scrap heap for that one. No biggie, I still have 3 iron engines one of which has been machined and cleaned already.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Dont scrap it. I have a fella that thinks it may be possible to repair one of them. It would not be cheap and it will be a little costly to even give it a try but I have been thinking about letting him give it is best shot so to say and see if it may be possible.

If it trash sounds like a good candicate for R&D.



Jess

I'll put it this way. I'm not going to put any money into it; if someone wants it and is willing to come get it or arrange shipping and have it picked up, they can have it. I won't leave it lying her forever either. Wifee is already grumbling about cleaning up the junk, and she's right about that.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I have successfully repaired a number of Alm. blocks that had this type of corrosion pit, the key is to get the corrosion area clean and rough. (sand blast)
You have to use a good quality, high temp, metal filled epoxy and resurface the block deck once the repair is fully cured.
This is block #21332 out of the appx 49000 units that were produced. (die casted)
DD

The Alm. block upper seal cap can be made from a lower iron SL6 cap but you need a CNC mill to do the job. The upper seal cap is substantially shorter & different.
DD