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 Post subject: Solid motor mounts
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:20 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14542
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I know there is not a whole lot of interest, but I fabbed a pair of solid mounts for my '66 Valiant today. My stock mounts had sagged and twisted, plus, I want to get rid of my torque link to free up some space.

Total list of materials:
2-4" sections of 2X2X/1/4" box tubing
3-1/2X1 bolts
3-3/8X1 bolts
3-1/2" locknuts
3-3/8" locknuts
Welder (optional)

I just eyeballed the location for the holes, drilled them, and tightened the bolts up for a test fit in the car. When I was happy, I had the 2 1/2" bolts that go through the K frame welded in so as to avoid needing 2 wrenches. :shock:

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 Post subject: Re: Solid motor mounts
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:15 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 7:38 am
Posts: 65
Location: chatsworth, ga
Car Model:
Quote:
I know there is not a whole lot of interest, but I fabbed a pair of solid mounts for my '66 Valiant today. My stock mounts had sagged and twisted, plus, I want to get rid of my torque link to free up some space.

Total list of materials:
2-4" sections of 2X2X/1/4" box tubing
3-1/2X1 bolts
3-3/8X1 bolts
3-1/2" locknuts
3-3/8" locknuts
Welder (optional)

I just eyeballed the location for the holes, drilled them, and tightened the bolts up for a test fit in the car. When I was happy, I had the 2 1/2" bolts that go through the K frame welded in so as to avoid needing 2 wrenches. :shock:
Post some pics if you can and do not mind..

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69 valiant


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 8:40 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:47 pm
Posts: 374
Location: SF CAL
Car Model:
How do you like em so far? how well does the chassis absorb the vibration?

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2210
Location: Everett, WA
Car Model:
I did the same thing many years ago on a '66 dart with a 318 and I still have those mounts. I used 2x4 channel iron and 1/8" plate.
The vibration was reasonable.


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 Post subject: solid motor mounts
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:08 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 344
Location: Tennessee
Car Model:
Where are the pictures?!?! :lol:
My rubbers are shot, and I would prefer to go back with solid. No one makes 'em of course... I think solid are easier on the drivtrain.

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:23 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9547
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
I run 1 Solid Mount On the Drivers Side - I had Problems With The usual Saggy Mounts, etc. But My Motor also Was moving Back (also Due To a Bad Trans Mount) And it was throwing my clutch adjustment all out of wack.


I bought A Solid A Body/ A Engine Moroso Mount and Shimmed it About 3/16" Higher. Works Perfect. They come in pairs because aparrently The L and R Engine Mounts for 67-72 A Body / A engines are the same Left to right.


I Got rid of the torque strap too.


Still Use the rubber mount on the Right.


Greg

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 Post subject: Solid motor mounts
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:29 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 344
Location: Tennessee
Car Model:
Stupid question(s):
1. What is a torque strap?
2. Wouldn't 2 kinds of mounts,(rubber/solid) cause cracking in the solid? because of the uneven load?

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 5:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14542
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Sorry, no pictures, and they have only been in the car on a setup block. I may get a motor in the car next weekend though.

These things are incredibly simple to make. If I can visualize and build them, anyone can. :D

A torque link is a bar that runs from the left side of the motor to the chassis to keep the engine from torquing over on the mounts. :shock:

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