Hey guys,
Does anyone know how to tighten a booster on a 1920? I have one the wiggles a little, and I'd rather have it tighter.
Thanks for any input...
BBBanjo

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

What exactly do you mean by "booster"?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well, I'm not a Holley guy so I'm not sure how they're held in place on a Holley. On a Carter, screws that become accessible once the air horn is removed hold the boosters in place.

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I mean the bar that runs from one side to the other, down in the carb; that breaks up the air stream to help atomize the mixture. "Booster" probably isn't the right word....but I couldn't think of anything else.
Should I even mess with it? It isn't about to fall out or anything...I just thought it would impact fuel-delivery consistancy being loose.
Thanks,
BBBanjo

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Oh, that part. Yeah, it definitely should not be loose, it should be quite solid. It's not meant to be removable, so if it is loose, there's probably something broken inside this carburetor. Argentina-Slantsixer almost certainly knows how to identify the problem, and probably knows how to fix it, if indeed it can be fixed.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

can be fixed, as a matter of fact I replied last night but apparently my post didn't hold on!

you have to do one or more of this procedures:

using a screw extractor, gently tap it in the brass "ring" you see below the metering block inside the bowl (yes, you have to remove all the carb and linkages) and try to GENTLY pry it out. That piece should be about 3/8" biggest outer diameter, stepping down to almost 1/4" then stepping down to 3/16 or 5/32. if that piece comes out, you can now take the "booster" wich is no booster t all since the 1920 has a very particular design wich has a discharge near the venturi walls instead of booster, but this is circumstantial... and clean out all debris from it, go thru its holes (they're fashioned like a T) with a straight 1/8" or 3.5 mm reamer, then using a flap emery tool on a dremel or similar tool smooth all the airflow offending protrusions on the top of the stepped venturi, then reassemble again using epoxi on the backside of the AF mixture distributer ("booster") and on the carb side of the "retainer" we pried off in the first step
Doing this will increase your carb's throttle response and add some power in the entire RPM band.

Or, if you're lazy or short of time, you can fashion a wedge out of tootpicks and epoxi, gently wedging the backside of that booster with tootpicks with the tapered end slightly covered in epoxi and once you inserted the tapered part and yu have fixed the booster you can snap them picks and have a semi-permanent repair till you do a complete rebuild of that carb.

I'd like to write an article (actually, translate some that I've have written) about rebuilding your own holley 1 barrel 1920 based carbs... how to unplug the metering block (the biggest pain in the ass on almost every holley carburetor) wich passages you have to pop open if you have ____ ill fnctioning carb, etc. But I don't have any american 1920 handy. If anyone wants to part out with a junk 1920 I'd be happy to buy it for getting good pix for a 1920 rebuild article with good pictures.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Yee-haw...I got it out!
Piece of cake....I didn't have a screw extractor, so I used a wood screw. Didn't mark it up bad at all, I just screwed it in until the brass ring started turning, then I just worked it out. I think I'll try to improve on the factory design. >>I think the "bar design" leaves alot to be desired in the way of even fuel delivery. It creates too much "wash" on the side of the carb, in my opinion. The Economaster tried, and did, improve on the older design; but I think I can go it one better. If I can come up with something promising, I'll post a pic. (Anyone running a 1920 want to experiment? )
Thanks for the help!!
BBBanjo

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

So What IS It Called?

Good Day,
Seth