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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:26 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:18 am
Posts: 16
Location: North Carolina
Car Model:
I replaced the gas tank in my 71 Dart Swinger and replaced the sending unit with a used one. The used sending unit worked in the other car prior to removal. My gas gauge is till not working. Is it operated by a vacuum? My speedometer works but is sorta shaky.

Any comments? Parts needed will also be a help.

Thanks...Duane :?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 12:09 pm 
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Location: North America
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Quote:
I replaced the gas tank in my 71 Dart Swinger and replaced the sending unit with a used one. The used sending unit worked in the other car prior to removal. My gas gauge is till not working.
The primary diagnostic to figure out what's going on here is to answer this question: Does your engine temperature gauge work, or is it dead, too?
Quote:
Is it operated by a vacuum?
No, there is no vacuum involvement in your instrument cluster. As mentioned in your previous post, go get the three books described in this post.
Quote:
My speedometer works but is sorta shaky.
Separate issue, fixes are here.

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 Post subject: gauge
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:13 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 855
Car Model:
Triple check that the new tank is well grounded - the little ground strap clipped to the fuel line often breaks or corrodes.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 4:12 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:18 am
Posts: 16
Location: North Carolina
Car Model:
I checked last night and I noticed that the temp gauge didn't move along with the gas gauge. So to answer your question, the temp gauge seems to NOT work also. One of these days, my electrician buddy will stop over to assist.....I asked him last night.

Duane


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:08 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
When both the fuel and temperature gauges are on the blink, the instrument voltage regulator is a good suspect.

IVR REPLACEMENT and
SOLID STATE UPGRADE

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:35 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:18 am
Posts: 16
Location: North Carolina
Car Model:
I'll print off what you linked to me and investigate. Seems pretty simple.
As far as the instrument panel, I undid the screws holding the instrument panel in the dash but it didn't seem to want to come out all the way so I could see behind the panel. Am I missing a step :?: Are there any clips or secret screws holding the speedo/instrument panel in the dash? It may be I just need to give it a good tug out but want to make sure I don't break anything.

I also need to take the dash cap/pad off to replace the trashed one. Will that get me access needed to get behind the panel? How hard is it to remove the pad properly vs placing one over the top?

Many q's but you all seem to be the experts. :roll:

Duane


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24512
Location: North America
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Do not tug/yank, you'll break stuff. The instrument cluster has to have both of its plug-on connectors removed, the speedometer cable has to be removed, and if your car has a gearshift on the steering column, the shift indicator string needs to be unhooked from the steering column sleeve. All of this takes place from underneath the dash. You will likely need to lower the steering column slightly by removing the bolts holding it to the underside of the dash. Then the instrument cluster can be lifted out of place and taken to a workbench for service. The instrument cluster voltage regulator can be replaced in a minute with a stock-type replacement from the parts store, or you can spend additional time and effort making up an electronic replacement.

Got those books on the way yet...?

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 Post subject: Books on the way...
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 9:08 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:18 am
Posts: 16
Location: North Carolina
Car Model:
I ordered two of them just now on Amazon. One was way to high so I'll have to wait on that one.

Ordered:

--The Petersen automotive troubleshooting & repair manual by Petersen Publishing

--Automechanics Fundamentals by Stockel, Martin Wall

Thanks again for the quick replies....


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 Post subject: speedo Update....
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:54 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:18 am
Posts: 16
Location: North Carolina
Car Model:
Well, my electrician buddy hasn't come over yet but here is what happened the other day with my speedometer.
I was driving the car normal speed and all of a sudden the speedo jumped to 110-120 and making a weird buzzing sound. The weird thing is, after a small amount of time, the sound stopped and the speedo worked great with hardly a wiggle. It felt so good just cruising down the road knowing how fast I was going in peace. After a few miles (after I stopped at sign) it started again when I regained speed above 20mph or so. My wife said she smelt something but I didn't. Is my circuits in the back of speed burning up or am I just breaking my internals slowly? I will take my dash off eventually. Any advice for the mystery noise :?:

Thanks.......Duane

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71 Dart Swinger 225/6 1 brl
68 Dodge Charger 383 (roller/full of parts)
2001 Harley Davidson 883
''Good Wife''


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24512
Location: North America
Car Model:
You definitely need to have your speedometer rebuilt. If you keep driving it for long, it's going to self-destruct and then you'll have to get a replacement (which will also likely need rebuilding...we're talking about 36-year-old parts.)

See this post.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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