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 Post subject: Head modifications??
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:24 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:05 pm
Posts: 108
Location: Shad Bay Nova Scotia
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Another newbie, good day to all. I must say I have enjoyed this site over this past year, very informative. I'm currenty building a 70 Duster 225 with an A833, 8.75 with 3:91's, I got in on the ERSON cam buy, I picked the hot street 280. I'm have ordered the Offy intake with a 500 Eldebrock & Hooker super comps with ceramic coating. My questions are as follows: would the head that Clifford offers be best suited for this combination?I think their current price is $995.00 + 100.00 core charge. Is this good $ spent? Erson recommends 9.5 to 10.5 compression, does anyone else offer reconditioned heads with larger valves etc? Would it be obvious to most good cylinder head shops where to blend fuel bowls etc as there a couple in our area, or is there good info I could pass on to them to get good results? What valves should I get if I get a local shop to do them? I would rather buy a head done if someone could recommend a proven piece. Does anyone want to guesstimate a horsepower output from the above combination? My longer term plan is to build a street / strip motor next year if this current project works out, has anyone tried the Clifford triple webber fuel injection? they claim 400- 450ft pounds??? ($4200.00)
I would appreciate any & all comments, thanks again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17453
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I would be very surprised if Clifford would do a good quality headjob for that price (or any price?). They farm that out to a shop in LA somewhere.

I would recommend going with either mpgmike on this site (search recent post by gmader on his head done by Mike), or Mike Jeffrey (ph is 308-324-3576). Both of them will get you a head for a decent price ($1000-1400), and it will flow well. I have a head from Mike Jeffrey that makes great HP with a similar cam to yours, junkyard shorblock w/8.8:1 comp, and a Holley 500 2bbl and headers. Has run 14.90s in a 2600lb car with 3.00 rear gears.

Clifford is not making any EFI for the slant and probably never will. Their main development people have left, I believe, so they are good for manifolds and headers and not much else these days.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 3:56 pm
Posts: 1967
Location: Dalton, GA
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Listen to the the perfesser The Road Goblin will implode Demons. :D Thanks Ron Parker











Bagels On Juice Im Getting Bamboozled


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Welcome.
Get your head work done by someone who knows the SL6, that is not Clifford.
Sounds like you have a good combo coming together, get er done!
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:13 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:05 pm
Posts: 108
Location: Shad Bay Nova Scotia
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Thanks for the imput so far, I'll make contact & see if I can order a head already done. What should I use for timing chain, gears & pushrods for this combination?.
Thanks again
Derek


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:07 am 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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You will want about a 40 cc combustion chamber to get 10:1 comp, so you will have to get a head milled about 0.120" (you read that right) to do that, depending on the valves you use (they stick out into the chamber diff amts depending on valve head). You can also combine head and block milling.

After you get the engine together, measure for pushrod length and get Smith Bros to make you a set. If you feel lucky, you could just get them to make you a set that is 0.100-0.150" shorter than stock and that should fix you up after the head milling.

Stock metal t chain and gears will work fine, but you can get a nicer true roller set (JP perf) from Cox Brothers, or probably a rollmaster set from maddogracing.com (ebay seller) for about $100-120. I think Hughes Engines sells a decent double roller for $70 or so.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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Another vote here for Mike Jeffrey. :D

I've had 2 done by him. Bad thing is he does them over the winter. It's about farming time now, so there may be a wait. :(

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 6:13 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:17 pm
Posts: 221
Location: NW New Jersey
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If you'd like to see pics of Greg Mader's head, look here:

http://powrehaus.com/2006/12/05/old-sla ... new-power/

I posted flow numbers there as well. Oh, and thanks for the plug Lou.

Mike

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:01 am 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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You're very welcome, Mike. Looks like nice work and very good flow numbers for not a ton of $. Excellent at low lift flow - 198cfm @ 0.400" lift! This is what most street-strip slants need.

Best,

Lou

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 Post subject: Fyi
PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:30 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
After you get the engine together, measure for pushrod length and get Smith Bros to make you a set. If you feel lucky, you could just get them to make you a set that is 0.100-0.150" shorter than stock and that should fix you up after the head milling.

Just as an FYI, the last couple of times I ordered pushrods from Smith Brothers, they wouldn't just let me order "stock length minus..."...their rep on the phone was very 'unfriendly' about it "Well, what is the stock length?"..."Are you sure that will fit?"... So I got tired of that and I do what Doc does and used a stock pushrod I have cut, threaded and installed some jamb nuts so I have a variable length rod to dial in...I check the length, then box it up and send it to them and order "12 of these, this length"...last time, the turn around was about 5 days (of course they are just over the mountain from me so it'll be a bit quicker...).

On a nicer note, they do make great pushrods, and the last sets I had ordered were slightly thicker than the stock 'noodle rods'...

-D.Idiot


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