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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 8:49 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Redding, CA
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Quote:
Well, it turns out it wasn't the starter causing the problem, i forget the name of the part, (its that thing that keeps you from starting in drive or reverse), for some reason it wouldnt allow me to start in park either, but it fired right up in neutral.

thanks
If you end up getting a new neutral safety switch, you may want to consider ordering a Standard Motor Products (part no. NS11) unit instead of a cheaper brand $20 as opposed to $10). The metal gasket is rubberized to minimize potential trans leakage. The NAPA brands may or may not have this feature (I never checked), but I know the Neihoff doesn't.

I had similar problems. Finally it just stopped working. After I replaced my neutral safety switch, I had the same problem. It ended up being the ground (middle) wire, which I cut out a spliced a replacement wire.

If your problem gets worse, a temporary fix can be to unplug your neutral safety switch ground wire that goes to the starter relay, and run a ground wire directly from your starter relay to a ground point. It will start in all gears, so this shouldn't be permanent.


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 6:49 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Central Coast, CA
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Quote:
I wonder if maybe just those ancillary loads turning off with the key in the "Start" position was misinterpreted as a power draw.
What led me to my conclusion that there was a big power draw was that the driver side turn indicator that is mounted ontop of the fender became very dim. (I had no other accesories turned on) It normally glows when the key is in the "on" position, however when i turned the key to the "start" position the light became very dim, but not disconnected. Something was robbing power from the light, and the only thing that should have been turned on by turning the key to "start" is the starter circuits, right?


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 4:22 pm 
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Correct.

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