Just wondering if anyone has purchased a crate \6 and or if there are any recomendations for who to use.
With the local shops the cost for a rebuild is $3000 and I found a crate long block for $900 to $1500. WIth an install that should bring down the cost. I am not looking for anything special.
www.precisionengine.com has one for $899 and has a 12 month warranty and a couple of others have 5 and 7 year warranties (who, of course, are more expensive).
I would love to be able to just get a kit but I am not able to dedicate the time due to my job.

Thanks,

81' D150

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Superman

1981 D150
"The Khaki Machine"

Buying a "remanufactured" engine off the shelf is quick 'n' easy, but these engines usually don't run as well or last as long as an engine that's been custom-rebuilt. As with all other so-called "remanufactured" parts (starters, carburetors, alternators, brake cylinders, etc.) they are generally rushed down a line staffed with not-very-knowledgeable, semi-skilled drones installing low-bid parts. You're supposed to be distracted from this ugly reality by the pretty warranty certificate suitable for framing.

You're about to spend a chunk of money, time, and effort. If you have a choice at all about it, go all the way and do it right. Figure out what kind of an engine you want to wind up with (you can ask questions here if you're thinking about improvements and upgrades), find a capable, reputable machine shop, talk over what you want, and have it done.

If you're on a tight budget, perhaps consider dropping in a good used engine and using that while you rebuild (or have rebuilt) an engine to your specs at a slower pace.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

When I was trying to decide the same thing about 9 months ago, I asked Doc the same thing. He said the shop in Spokane that advertises on ebay is good. I believe they have a year or 30,000 mile gaurantee. I ended up rebuilding mine locally so I could do a few mods such as: balancing, street and bowl porting, shaved head and block, exhaust inserts, gasket matching, etc...... at a local shop for $2500. Installation is not hard.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

What I want for my truck is just a good daily driver. The cost is only about $800 different with the crate compaired to the shop doing it locally.
I must admit that framable cert seems like a good idea but i know what you mean. That is why I was looking for the input.
I have some knock when going up hills and want to keep her running.

Keep the good input coming.

Thanks,

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Superman

1981 D150
"The Khaki Machine"

Make sure to read the warranty before you go based on that.
Many of them require installation by an ASE certified shop. If you plan to drop it in yourself, you may not have a warranty.
Most of the machine shops will include a warranty if they assemble the long block. They may or may not require professional installation.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Very true. I made sure my long block was warranteed for 6 months. I did some work on it at the shop and installed it back in my car myself. The shop was very good at working with me. I just didn't get everything I wanted to keep the cost at $2200. Such as a single roller chain compared to a dual, polished ports, bigger valves, etc. Once installed it started right up and has been running like a clock since.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Im with Dan on this one. Find a good running Slant put it in And go to a good machine shop and do the engine right. You get to pick the parts and tell the shop what you want. Then you will have the engine you want in your car or truck. Thanks Ron Parker









Bagels On Juice Im On Boost

Well upon further thought and after finding out that the shipping (oneway is $350 with a core of $225) I am going to have mine rebuilt by a local shop.
I also like haveing the orginal engine still in her.
Any suggestions on anything special?
I am looking for her to be a daily driver and get decent mph.
Any suggestions on where to get the rebuild kit?

Thanks,

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Superman

1981 D150
"The Khaki Machine"

Hi superman,

Gee, don't we all have your question once...I sure did. As they guys prior have said, slide in runner...but then...my experience would say step even furter back and go a tad slower...having done it all more than once, here is what I would do if I were you.

Get one of the rebuilt short blocks from ebay seller Robzet. They were recommended to me on this forum and I am glad they were..lthe block comes in a good crate and is rebuilt to military spec (whatever that is) and provided with as FSM original and list of what was done and what was in it.

Then you will have a really good already rebuilt start with new bearings that has cylinders bored .o30 over.I took this to my machine shop to start with and they found nothing wrong at all. Shipping halfway across US was $195.

Then, jump on the Erson cam deal on this forum and get the lifters and springs. You will live to regret the day you don't put in the 254 or 270 cam and now is the time, because it is as cheap as it ever will be, and you can degree it so easily when you want. The short block is clean and completely crated so you can store it easily and paint it at will.

Then get a head...often free for shipping and get a set of oversize valves, one bay seller has as good set. Get a junk head and a grinder and teach yourself how to port on it then port the "new" head's intake and exhaust holes.

Get a set of the Australian gaskets for head and manifolds, and make a split manifold and buy a Dutra front, at least. Save the external parts from the one you pull and use them for reassembly.

I did all this and more plus reassembly over about a year, getting a part when I found it or had the cash. This is not a lot of trouble. what you learn will be even more rewardinig than how it knocks you back in the seat when you kick it the first time! And the total cost is still in the $2500 range. (Oh I posted a link not long ago to a pic of the finished deal wit stainless hoses, chrome, paint, etc...just look on the forum)

And you can email me anytime for sources, etc....course Slantsix Dan has long posted all the necessary parts numbers on the forum, but we all have local sources we like.
rock
'64d100

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Going to be going through this here in a month or so. I am going to have to go through the local machine shop (NAPA) to get it done. Where should I tell them to go if I am looking for gas mileage and longevity?

I have already spent to damn much for a custom radiator for the thing ($1100), might as well make sure the power plant is fully operational as well and how I want it.

I am not a mechanic; more an electronics technician so must confess my ignorance on this topic. If someone has the time and could reply with something I could print out and take with me to the machine shop they would understand, vice my stuttering and stammering about it, would be much appreciated. Again I am looking for a rebuild that will last a long time, best on gas mileage for a daily driver.

But...how is that possible???

How does a radiator, even one built up from scratch, cost that much?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The list I posted above is what Doug Dutra had suggested for my situation which is for more torque to turn the tall gears and good gas mileage since I drive 120 miles a day for work.

After taking the list to the machine shop and discussing it with them and going over the options they offered, there were no problems building the long block. After 14,000 miles it is definitely alot of fun to drive, and lots of useable power and the mileage is getting better each week as it breaks in.

I am curious like Dan, how can a radiator could cost that much?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Well perhaps I was a bit misleading but all together it was $1100. Had to have it fabricated to fit a 1940 dodge pickup; then had to get a new shroud to fit the new electric fan, new stainless flex hosing, new pressure resevore, all the wiring ect. ect. it added up. don't forget the shipping.

I know a lot of you are thinking "1 D 10 T" but i have seen a couple joy rigged Rads in the old dodge trucks and frankly they were either high maintenance or they had to hillbilly modify the body to make it fit. I never really felt like i would be spending a lot on what goes under the hood until i got floored with the radiator. might as well do a top to bottom on the slant six as well. And get it right the first time. This will be my daily driver from here until i am six foot under.

i think i'm going to go with a rebuild in my 86 van. a local shop said $2500, that's tax and installation. i'm trying to keep it as inexpensive as possible but was wondering if it would be a waste to put in a different than stock cam for a little extra power. if so what. i also need a new carb so what would be best. my exhaust manifold is cracked so i'm going with one from 1A Auto. will this seal up ok with my stock intake.