Hey, i've got a virgin 225 engine at my disposal and am curious as to where i should install a 4-barrel carb, 2 singe barrel carbs (the originality factor), or if i should look into the fuel injection. I'm also looking into the procharger supercharger system if i want to go all the way, and am unsure if a 4 barrel carb or a fuel injection conversion is best for it.

Thanks for reading,

Aaron

Were I going to do a Procharger setup, I would make the investment in doing an EFI setup. Blow through 4bbl carb would be much easier though.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

So can a EFI fuel injection setup draw more fuel than a 4 barrel carb with the supercharger installed? If so, where can i get more information on slant 6 fuel injection and suppliers that offer it?

I would start a new post on the "Fuel Injection" section of the S6 forum.

There are several different ways to do the fuel injection route, all of them pretty much custom, as there is no prefabbed kit specifically for slant six FI.

MegaSquirt is a popular way to go, do a Google search.

There are some fuel rails floating around now and then that have been spaced for the slant intake. At one point Clifford 4bbl manifolds were being produced with the bosses for the fuel injectors cast right into the manifold... Clifford manifolds come up on eBay fairly often.

Of course, the FI will tend to become more involved and $$$ than carbs, but those who have gotten it to work well really seem to like it.

Head on over to the FI section and ask away!

-Mac

I've always been very pro-carb, and avoid fuel injection because I have a silly ideal about muscle cars having a carburetor... with the appropriate intake manifold, a 4BBL is an awesome improvement. Dual 2BBL's would be neat, but a pita imo to find an intake for, hook the fuel system and throttle to (and are you using a mechanical or electrical fuel pump?), and find room for such a large air cleaner to cover two separate carbs for little more than novelty value. Also, I know I've seen an extra long intake manifold around I've been dying to try out, for use in a ram air system, but the length of it would conflict with the placement of my brake master cylinder.

An otherwise-stock slant six would generally do best with a single two barrel or dual one barrels, although the single two barrel will be easier to set up and tune. A four barrel will come into its own if the engine has internal mods to let it rev higher (cam, etc).

EFI can give very good drivability and works well with forced induction - the catch is that it's a fair amount of time and effort, and often money too, involved. It depends on your long term goals and budget, really.

_________________
"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Wasn't there an article on how to turbo a slant for $500 or less on the Allpar website?

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

There is, by MPGMike, who often posts here. The first chapter is here, with the second half here. And there's a well illustrated sequel here.

There's also a similar article here on slantsix.org. However, I ended up buying the turbo and manifold from Wayne's article, and I ran into a few issues installing it.

First, cast iron is very difficult to weld correctly. The manifold developed serious cracks in the welded area. About 50% of the weld area had cracked by the time I did an autopsy on it. If you attempt to make a slant six turbo manifold by cutting up two or more iron manifolds and welding them together, it has to be done very well if it's going to hold up.

Second, the K-car turbos run out of steam above 3,000 RPM on a slant six. They build full boost under 1,500 RPM, too. If, like MPGMike, you don't want to rev the engine above that point, this might be what you're looking for. If you're looking for a huge power gain, though, you're likely to find this turbo way too small. Also, K-car turbos have an odd flange, making upgrades a bit of a pain.

_________________
"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Several good welders I know say you can;'t weld old cast iron exhaust manifolds because it has had the carbon cooked out of it. A stainless "header" is the best way to go, and not too difficult to make. You must have a good welder weld it, or be a pro yourself.

For a stock 225, I would put Dutra duals on it, a bigger cam, and a small 4 bl, or a big 2 bl. You will notice a big gain with the two bl, but it will be in RPM'S, not torque so much. At least that was my experience. You can improve the ignition as well by going to some form of capacitance discharge. One of my favorite improvements is to make sure the engine wiring harness is fresh, with new connectors, and even wires if you care to take the time. It is an easy job to unwrap the harness and simply replace each wire, one wire at a time, and solder new connectors on the wires. You will be surprised at how much better it will run, for nothing more invested than your time and maybe $20 worth of wire and connectors. When this car in the signature below was stock, it went from 13 MPG to 18 MPG with nothing more than the wiring mods I mentioned. Although it is nice, especially these days, I don;t mention economy for it's sake alone. When you get that kind of improvement in economy, you are improving the efficiency of the engine, which means performance is getting better as well.

Sam

_________________

I'm starting to consider a small block instead and work up with that. The idea of a powerful slant 6 is a fun concept to imagine, but a small block will be more bang for my buck i believe.

Ultimately, there really is not much difference. In watching the slant community for many, many years now, I can say with a fair degree of certainty that you can build a slant that will compete with a small block. It is more difficult largely due to lack of commercial support for the slant. To build a slant you have to do more research, search for parts with more diligence, be more competent as a mechanic, be more creative, and most important get connected to the slant community. They are a tight nit community partly because they have to be. A slant six, these days actually gets more attention from the curious car fans than a small block.

Also, with a slant you must be strong enough personaly to answer the question,"Why didn;t you just put a v-8 in it?' If you don't know the answer to that question, and feel ultimately uncomfortable with being a bit of a non-conformist, then maybe the v-8 is for you.

Build it right, and the slant will outlast the v-8.

Sam

_________________

I still like the slant 6, but im not sure what one i would work on. Either i'd stick with my 225, or i'd buy a 60-62 valiant and use the 170 for the higher revs. Anyone have an opinion on what one is best for modding out?

225 is easier to modify, then the 170

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225