The latter.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok, so I have my two barrel "Super Six" Intake found, and my block and head at the engine shop being cleaned, milled, valve-job'd, and checked. Now, I just can't find a Holley 2280 anywhere!!!!!! I've called my largest junk-yard and they can't seem to locate one (since I don't want the BBD). I've searched the internet vigorously, and everyone has the Carter, but not the Holley. I've looked back into some of the slant six archives and can't seem to find a good place to get a re-built carb. Does anyone have any suggestions?

-Pete

P.S. I want the Holley and NOT the Carter because I've talked with a few mechanics and they've said that the Holly version has been less troublesome for them.

Ok, just found two on Ebay....wow... smart me.
Now, besides the choke problems, does is matter what "number" carburetor I get (I see there isn't just one "2280")? If I indeed put this engine on a marine application, I suppose the choke problem won't exist....or is the choke linkage problem because of the layout of Chevrolet engines vs. Slant Sixes?

Was there ever a slant six for marine use that ran clockwise? I seem to remember that there was but I am not sure. Its use would be in a twin engine boat.

Don't know, but with stern drives it's really easy to have counter-rotating props with the engines turning the same way........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

That's because contrary to inexplicably popular myth, the factory used only BBDs on 2bbl slant-6s...never 2280s. Holley put out a couple of different 2280 carbs intended as replacements for the factory BBD, but as with most aftermarket pieces, they're a lot scarcer than OEM parts in the wrecking yard, and they generally do not exist on the reconditioned-parts market.
If you have a core to start with, yes. If not...no
Forgive me, but that's a little bit silly. It's like buying peaches instead of apples because you talked to a few people who got upset stomachs after eating apples. The BBD and the 2280 are both good designs as applied to Chrysler products. Some people prefer one over the other, in both directions, but the main factor is the suitability of whatever which specific carburetor you're looking at for whatever which application you have in mind, and the condition of that specific carburetor. There are poor carburetor designs out there, but the 2280 and the BBD are not amongst them. (the BBDs used on AMC/Jeep products were problematic because of certain design features AMC wanted and Carter provided. I mention this because the mechanics you talked to, regardless of what they think they remember, are not comparing reliability of BBDs vs. 2280s on slant-6 engines.) You needn't feel any qualms about going with a well-built, properly-adjusted BBD. They work well and give reliable service. There are other good 2bbl carbs that'll fit and work well, too, such as the Stromberg WW3. Then there's the Motorcraft 2100 which people have had good success using, but it's not a drop-on.
As with every carburetor (BBS, BBD, 2280, 1920, WW3, ThermoQuad, QuadraJet...), there is the carb model ("2280") and then the carb type number. There are lots and lots of type numbers; each is specific to the particular application for which it is intended. Variations are many and range from jetting and calibration to physical configuration, presence/absence of various features and circuits, linkage provisions, choke provisions, venting provisions, etc. etc.
Uhhhh...where'd Chevrolets come into the picture? The choke problem exists because the slant-6 vs. V8 2bbl choke lever is different, and the \6 choke won't hook up correctly to the V8 choke lever and vice versa. You'll need a choke that works to get the engine started from cold.

Here, how 'bout a brand-new Marine 225 2bbl BBD with built-in choke? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0115524429

Would mean you wouldn't have to adapt anything, wouldn't have to hassle with "remanufactured" junk, and would have a carb designed and calibrated for marine usage (e.g. no vacuum advance). All you'd need to do would be to come up with a suitable air cleaner. Originally it would've been a marine-certified type, but any Chrysler product 2bbl passenger car air cleaner for a model made through 1965 will fit right on.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, you are the MAN. Thanks for all the advice, especially to a guy who's pretty green as far as Slants go. I bought the Carter Industrial/Marine Carb. It is by far my best option. THANKS!

I have an old press kit from the 60's with photos of twin slants laying horizontal. They have a type of electronic ignition and direct drive Hemi type starters on them. I would assume one is reverse rotation. Chrysler was promoting the durability of the slant and detailed some of the tests they pu tthe motors through.

REmeber if you are doing an marine conversion some auto parts should not be used. They used different alternators (sealed) Carbs(gas overflow replumbed),starters and distributors. Fire safety is a more critical issue. Fuel pumps are also different on some models. Double diaphram to prevent gas leak. If you go reverse rotation the seals have to be changed also.

Hi,
I'm wondering if anyone can help with finding and electronic ignition for an M225 Slant 6 for marine application?
Thanks in advance,
Aaron

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Take your kid fishing

You need a complete electronic ignition system? Or just certain component(s)?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

"yes" is the answer.
see this ebay ad,scroll to the bottom where the owner answers a question.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0153697675

regards,Rod

I require the complete system....I am currently having problems keeping it timed and the distributor is fully advanced now. I think (and pardon me if I'm wrong) that a self adjusting electronic ignition would solve my problems??
Thanks for your help Dan.

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Take your kid fishing

If you are continually having to adjust the distributor timing to keep the engine running, that suggests the timing chain is stretched and/or slipped. Pop off the distributor cap and manually rotate the engine in one direction until you see the distributor rotor begin to turn, then see how far you can manually rotate it the other direction before the distributor rotor starts turning. If there is any perceptible lag, the T-chain needs replacement. How many hours on this engine?

Electronic ignitions aren't "self adjusting", really — it's just that they haven't any rubbing block to wear, so the dwell doesn't change (and since there are no points, the point gap never changes, either).

Everything you need to install electronic ignition can be had in one go by buying this auction. The seller is reliable. Your marine application probably hasn't got a vacuum advance port on the carburetor, so just disregard the vacuum advance on the new distributor. You will want to install a vented distributor cap, Standard-Bluestreak #CH-410X, a distributor cap gasket, Standard-Bluestreak #AL-483G, and a long-tip rotor, NAPA Echlin #MO-3000. (these have only just become available again and there are probably still some "not quites" flushing through the distribution system; be sure the one you get is made out of tan plastic, not white. See this post for pictures.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the extremely useful information!!!
I will order it today.....

Cheers,
Aaron

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Take your kid fishing