Hi, I'm new to the site but i read most of the forums from countless info hunting on my car. I am the proud owner of a 1974 plymouth duster slant six i got pics but don't know how to put on here anywho.
I"m looking for tips pointers or any help to make my baby go my current mods are:

clifford 3into1 headers(true dual exhaust) glasspacks out back gonna change to flowmaster though
clifford intake 4bbl adaptor
390cfm holly
hotter ignition coil
SOON 8 3/4 rear end with 4.10 posi going in
cragar rims and 255's in back 15'rim
in the process of fabricating downshift linkage
any help is much appreciated i got tons of ideas i'll post them next time i'm on thanks for the help!

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If you are running an auto trans you will not like your highway rpm's with the 4.10's. I have 3.23's and turn 3100 rpm at 70 mph.

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Next mod probably ought to be a camshaft, combined with milling the head for some compression and maybe porting it. Make the mods on the inside match what's on the outside.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

well about the 4.10 gears i'm not worried about the rpm's because i usually only travel on 45mph maybe highest 55mph roads around. and my ideas for the rebuil are:
clifford camshaft (not sure what duration or lift yet) i hear you have to notch the pistons if you go higher than 280 duration?or something
i've got a head that is gonna be shaved .100 port/polish and oversize valves, clifford forged flat top pistons to raise the compression more possibly bore .80 over i want .100 but i'm not sure if that will make problems?
new cloyes timing chain and forged rods

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Your torn between a drag car and a street/strip car. You can throw a lot of money at either one and not be satisifed with either. One has to decide what they want. street/strip car a full drag car. You can not have both and do good. Ttrust me on this. Thanks Ron Parker









We Did Not Get Where We are Because We Are Good We Have A Lot Of Slanted Friends

well i drive this car to school/work/cruise so i can't go with a full drag car but it's almost a need not a want to lay waste to others such as ricers and v8's. I mean nothing would make me happier to have a full on drag car but thats not fesiable for my only car so for cam choice i'm limited b/c i don't exactly want to put some monster cam in.But my ideal point would be a nice 10 or 10.5 compression ration with a rumpy cam and some pavement thrashing 4.10 gears so any suggestions?Then if its not fast enough could always make some adjustments and throw in a bit of nitrous.

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Silent NOS.....
Holy NOS.....
Leaves the ricers...At a loss...
Making my Slant...scream insane
Every piston...feels the strain
Makes my Ralleys go round...and round
Till the end, of the speedo...I've found.

Cheer! There's you answer! Hehehee....

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

The most important matching to do is to get your cam to match both the rear and the compression. If you are going big rear, and high compression you wil hate life with a small, stockish cam. Talk to Lou (Dart270) and ask him what rear, and cam he is using. His car really screams, and delivers mileage in the 20's on the highway.

Sam

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You can get a better price on pistons and cam, then from Clifford. See this link for cams.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ms&start=0

Pistons may or may not have to be notched, depending on the cam, and the amount of head milling, and block decking.

Stock rods are forged, and will do fine for anything less then a all out race car. Might want to consider ARP rod bolts.

PS: Don't forget about the Mopar Show at Don Garlits Museum in November, Also the Turkey Run at Daytona Speedway Thanksgiving weekend.
I am just outside of Ocala, Fl and you are welcome to stop up for a visit, anytime.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks, Sam i'll try to look (Dart270) up and ask him but ya the cam is pretty much the only thing i can't decide on because i am gonna go high compression with somewhat steap gears (4.10's)

Thanks Charlie i'll have to try and get to some events, and when i'm around ocala i'll give ya some warning. I was looking at the cam link you sent and i was sitting here comparing this clifford camshaft book i have to the erson cams. From what i've noticed that the erson have maybe 200 to 300 more rpm of power than the clifford cams such as 2000rpm to 5000rpm compared to a comparable cam from Clifford being 2200rpm to 5000rpm why is that? and is that why erson cams are better?

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Kev,

If you can go visit Charlie, that would be a great help to you. He can give you some solid pointers.

The FIRST thing I would do is to reduce weight as much as possible. Cut the guts out of your 5mph bumpers, and remove anything you don't need or can live without (heater, AC, back seat, iron intake/exh...).

$1000 might be OK for a good Clifford head, but I wonder who actually did the work on the head, as Clifford contracts these things out. If they have flow numbers, that would be great.

Otherwise, your best bet is to call Mike Jeffrey and get him to build a ported head for you. He is the best and will not charge you a ton of money, not much more than that Clifford, for a new head. Tell him what compression ratio you want and how fast you want to go.

It sounds like you should have a cam around 240 or 250 deg @0.050" lift, with 0.500-0.550' max lift, combined with 10-10.5:1 comp.

Get a high stall converter from Midwest Converters, or PTC, or Continental or Edge Racing. Do not bother with any other company, and DO NOT bother with anything under 3000 stall. I would shoot for 3200-3400 stall (9" or 9.5") for a hot street motor. Midwest probably has the best deal, and makes a nice unit.

My 64 has run in the low 14s, and currently is in the mid 14s in the 1/4, mid 9s in the 1/8. Car is set up for road racing, so bad 60 fts with wheel spin.

That's a start. Let 'er rip.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Lou i'll call clifford and let you know what the flow of the head is soon.
With that cam and the stall converter will that still be a daily driver? because i do drive this car to school/work/fun/track
A road racing slant sweet sounds fun i'm sure it handles well with the less weight up front.
does anyone have any idea what kinda compression i'll be looking at with those 2.2pistons (can't remeber exact name and where to get them?) with a shaved.100 head will that put my compression high enough around 10 or 10.5?

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Lou, what rear are you running?

Sam

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I run 3.91 in the 64 Dart.

Kev, 4.10 gears already make this a borderline street car. You can make the big cam work if everything matches and ignition timing is right. 2.2 pistons on 198 rods with a stock head chamber will get you around 10-10.5:1 comp, IIRC. A 3200 stall converter these days acts almost like a stocker until you stand on the gas - don't worry about that.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ya thats true didn't think about the high rpms i'll be drivin around with 4.10's out back.
Now theres the question i was trying to remeber now why do most everyone use 198 rods?(were talking about pushrods right?)
Let me get this straight saying the 2.2 pistons will give compression in the 10's with a stock head OR stock head milled .100 off right?
Oh ok the only reason i was fearing the stall converter was because an uncle of mine was saying how he hates his stall converter on his charger (which may have been 3500 can't remeber maybe higher) but then again i believe i shouldn't always trust his judment.Because i've drivin my dads Dodge Dart many times and it has 3000rpm converter in it and it feels fine.Lou are you using stock electric ignition?(mines not points)

Sam have you ever taking your Swinger to the track thats a nice lookin car you got there How do i get pictures of mine on here?
Thanks everyone for the help and info

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