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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 12:06 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2003 12:07 am
Posts: 147
Location: Portlandish OR
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Been lookin for an economical way to a lil' more performance from the exhaust. Headers are a bit expensive right now for me so; how many of you guys have split the stock manifold? This is my idea for right now and if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions I'm all ears.

Basiclaly I want to cut the center out and weld a flange at each new opening, I can cut it at an angle on each side and that might get me the clearance needed for the flange and the pipe(for the first bit of pipe I can use a tight radius U bend and get both my pieces for the begining of the exhaust pipes). So far I can see a couple problems with this; 1 after cutting the manifold at an angle I will end up with oblong openings, which might be solved by relativlythick flanges that are opened up on the inside so there is no step but a transition from oblong to round, 2 the rear manifold will have its pipe stick straight out from the manifold which means the starter will be under it and subject to excessive heat, this could be partly remedied by exhaust wrap onthe pipes or a starter blanket or a simple heat sheild.

Like I said any feed back would be graet, thanks for your time.
-Jesse


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:46 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
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Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Good luck with welding a 30 year old iron casting. While you can cut the front end off and replace it with a Dutra piece, then put some sort of plug on the cut part (I'd use a high temperature gasket-in-a-can), it's going to be very hard to get a good weld on the cast iron. I had a turbo manifold made from welding a slant six and a K-car manifold together - by the time I decided to go for a bigger turbo, approximately 50% of the weld area had already cracked.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 7:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Dutra Duals.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 8:44 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 2:57 pm
Posts: 355
Location: Florida
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Hell greasy, we will give you a stock manifold if needed for your project , This has been done many times before. :) pm us Good luck Don

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 1:06 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Quote:
Good luck with welding a 30 year old iron casting. While you can cut the front end off and replace it with a Dutra piece, then put some sort of plug on the cut part (I'd use a high temperature gasket-in-a-can), it's going to be very hard to get a good weld on the cast iron. I had a turbo manifold made from welding a slant six and a K-car manifold together - by the time I decided to go for a bigger turbo, approximately 50% of the weld area had already cracked.
How does Doctor Dodge do it so they last, when you send him your manifold and he cuts and welds it and sends it back with a Dutra front manifold?
Please explain.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 4:37 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
The part that is welded up doesn't carry any load or vibration; it is simply a plug, and it is screwed down before it's welded on.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:52 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2003 12:07 am
Posts: 147
Location: Portlandish OR
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Thanks but no thanks Mister Twister, the shipping from FL would probably be more than what I would pay at the local Pick-N-Pull. I've done a lil' cast Iron welding and have some really good "No crack" Nickel rod I got from Barnes Dist. through my work. It's the preheat and cool down that worry me most(gotta find a way to bring the temp down very slowly, maybe a day in the oven bringin the temp down alil at a time), that and the flanges I have are 1/2" thick mild steel, tho the Boilermaker at work has welded cast iron and steel together several times with no problems thus far. Anyone else have any input?
-Jesse


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 9:02 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 9:34 am
Posts: 125
Location: Illinois
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I was talkin' with some old timers at the local threshing show this past weekend. They said that a good way to weld/repair a cast iron (tractor) manifold was to get a good campfire going. When you get a good bed of red hot coals, throw the manifold in and bury it with the coals. When the manifold gets good and hot, pull the manifold out, make the weld with the welder, then throw the manifold back into the fire. Let the fire burn down overnight, then pull the manifold out the next day after it has cooled down.
Supposedly, this eliminates the issue of the cast iron cracking from heating up/cooling down to fast.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 10:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
The keys to successful cast iron welding:
-Good work piece prep.
-Good welding rod.
-Pre-heat the work piece and let it cool slowly.

For the pre heating and slow cool down, I use my BBQ.
Get it hot, do the welding, tossit back into the Bar-Bee and put the lid on.
DD

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 7:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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...oh, is that why the last time I went for a smog check, the inspector kept sniffing the air and going "Where's that hickory smell coming from?" :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 12:27 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:50 am
Posts: 154
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Seared to perfection. I like mines with a buh'tatoe.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:40 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:35 am
Posts: 168
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just wondering if i could pay somone to split a set for me. I dont have a welder currently.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:28 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Doctor Dodge,

Me to, I am interested in the cost also. I would like to have it done as a next step in the engine torque and mileage improvements.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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