Okay, here's what I know.
My block is finally done - boring, decking, endless cleaning, cam bearings, etc. Only thing now is that they are waiting on pistons - couldn't/didn't have any .060 for the rebuild kit.

Once I get this thing home and sitting on the engine stand, what is the first step I should do?

I am one of those that reads all I can and tries to do things the right way the first time, BUT, never having done a rebuild like this has me at a disadvantage. Any and all suggestions and tips are greatly appreciated.

I have been reading and printing various things from this and the other site, but I am still unsure of what to do next.

I know some of you are probably laughing, but oh well, I'm trying! LOL

Thanks for the help,
Talk at ya later,
Dan

gramma@dm-tech.net

First thing to do is pull out your mics and check everything the machinist did.(Bores, crank journals, bearings, etc...)The one I picked did superb work, but you have to know what specs you have to work with, or you may find out he let his apprentice work on your block...

Measure twice and install once...

-D.Idiot

One of the first things I'd do is to try and install the cam. It's not unusual to have to hand scrape the bearings to get the cam to fit. You should first check and make sure the cam is straight(not bent) by either turning it between centers on a lathe or spinning it in v-blocks. You check the middle journal(s) with a dial indicator. Ideally the runout should be zero, less than .005" is OK, .005"-.010" marginal. After you have determined the cam is serviceable, trial fit it in the cam bearings. If a small amount of scraping is all it takes, you want to do it before the block is filled with all the other stuff, so you have less stuff to clean again and there is less stuff in the way. While your at it, make sure the cam bearings are installed correctly: no burrs, oil holes lined up exactly.
Another thing to check is the crank straightness. Turn the block over, and temporarily insert the upper main bearing shells at each end of the block. Use the bearing shells like v-blocks and using a dial indicator check the inner journals for runout. Runout should not exceed .001", remember your main clearances are only a couple thousandths of an inch.


fglmopar@aol.com

I would do a little block and oil passage deburring work.
Be sure to check the oil pump to cam gear mesh and bolt-on & inspect the rear main seal cap to block groove match-up. (mock-up the rear main seal assembly)
You may want to do a "trial assembly" to measure, test fit, measure, and adjust key features like bearing clearances, piston fit, actual deck height, shaft run-outs, gear mesh, etc. Once you know everything is OK, do a final cleaning and bolt it all together starting with the crank.
DD

Well, I guess I have a very big problem to overcome now!

No micrometers, no scrapers, no dial indicators, no money.......

Ought to be fun huh?

What do you use to clean stuff with?
What about pre-oiling or greasing stuff as it goes together?

At least I do have a torque wrench!

Thanks for the responses gang,
Talk at ya later,
Dan

gramma@dm-tech.net

What do you guys mean when you talk about scraping cam bearings?? Never heard of this ?

Rick


rcovalt@innernet.net

Hi,

Where are you? If you live close to me (Iowa), you could use my measuring tools, etc...

In the past, I've built plenty of motors with only plastiguage, feeler guages, and a torque wrench. The bearing clearances can be checked with plastiguage (like wax string). The crank end play and rod side clearance can be checked with feeler guages. Same with deck height in conjuntion with a square. Ring gap can be checked with feeler guages. To degree the cam, you'd need a degree wheel and dial indicator.

Measure what you can, trust your machinest for the stuff you cannot measure. Above all, make sure you have everything as clean as you can and assembled correctly/torqued accurately. Don't get in a hurry and take the time to understand the problems you'll run into. Double check your work, it's only your time and it will save big problems later if you did something wrong. Unless your machinest screwed up big time (unlikely), your dimensions are probably at least as good as the factory used.

I'm sure most people here would be willing to provide advice.

good luck,
mark

mldingba@rockwellcollins.com

Uhmmm, the statement above has me a bit concerned, how can the block machining be finished (the cylinder bore) if the shop does not have the pistons?

You may want to ask some questions here because you need to finish hone / size the bores based on the size of the pistons, you basically need to measure each piston, add the desired clearance to that measurement, then hone each bore to the proper size. (yes, some piston sets can vary in size by a few thousands.)

As for not having your own measuring equipment, just do your homework and ask the shop to spend a few minutes with you to "double check" some sizes, using their micrometers. Just have a list of measurements "in-hand" so you can confirm that all is well before paying for and taking the stuff home.
DD

Still waiting to hear what you mean by scraping the cam bearings?? Help me out here.

Thanks,

Rick

rcovalt@innernet.net

Sometimes the cam is bent! Of course if it's too far out, you have to send it back. I ran into 3-in-a-row with a CompCams HighEnergy A-engine cam several years ago. When I finally found an acceptable piece it went like hell!
You've heard of line-boring a main line. Well, you can have a cam-brg line out, also. But think about it, you can't line-hone a cam-line. So, by trial and error, you use a bearing knife to shave out small amounts of the soft babbit bearing mat'l of the offending cam bearing shells so the cam can slide into place. I've had to do this a couple of times, the last with a 360 my daughter was building for a senior project.


fglmopar@aol.com

Well stated Bud, it is pretty common to have high spots on the cam bearings and if you install the cam, spin it a few times then inspect the bearing surface, you will see them.

It is always good to check the run-out of the cam before shaving the bearings but if the cam is straight, some hand scraping really helps free-up a tight cam.

I have had to do this enough that I made-up a special cam "cutter" by machining some grooves into the journals of a worn-out cam. I slip this in and carefully spin it, remove the cutter, test with the new cam and if needed, clean the scrapped babbit out of the grooves of the cutter cam and go again untill all spins freely. This goes a little faster then using a bearing knife on each individual bearing.
DD

Doug, I'am intrigued. What does it look like? How about a 'PIC'? As much as I love to force my short stubby fingers into tight, cramped quarters to hand-scrape bearings, I believe I'd give up all that if I could duplicate that slick tool!

fglmopar@aol.com

Wow...no "file photo" on hand for that tool, looks like I have to get this "cutter cam" out and shoot a few PICs.
I will basically need some time to do this so please stand by.
DD