I have looked into that pdf, what I meant was, how much gas should spill out, I know the reservoir shouldn't be full, but It seemed like it from all the gas that spilled

Look inside of the float bowl and see if there are any little ball bearings floating around. Make sure they are seated correctly in the power valve thing thats at the back of the float bowl. (if thats what its even called) I had the ball come out of my 1920 and it just let gas in all the time.

didn't see any bearings, looked perfectly fine, as far as I can tell.

Which PDF?
Question can't be answered quantitatively.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

http://u225.torque.net/cars/SL6/docs/BBD_Manuals.pdf

well, thats true, I could try to catch all the gas in a measuring cup, then figure out how much the bowl holds, then tell you how full it is.

H'mm. You're working on a Holley 1920, which is entirely different from the Carter BBD covered by that PDF.

How much gas spills out when you remove the float bowl won't tell you anything useful. Let's start from the start: Do you have a factory service manual for the vehicle?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

nope

Would the Haynes manual do?

nvm, I see what you think of haynes manuals.

My vacuum advance went out on my distributor, so going to electronic ignition is more of a priority to me anyway. When I raised the idle to 700 RPM the hesitation isn't as bad. I bet the main problem is that the timing isn't advanced.

Our Dart is a 71 California model. The 1920 it came with has what I can only describe as a thermally controlled vacuum leak. I forget the actual name but it is supposed to help lean the mixture when hot. It is an unbelievably half ass way to do this. What it does is help the engine run like crap when it is hot, or in our case, just warmed up all the way. It was just a problem, I don't think the bi-metal thermostat was good anymore. It looks just like many of the other emission band-aids of the era that really did not work.

I just reamed the hole in the side of the carb that leads down to the vacuum and put a 1/4" aluminum plug in it. You could use jb weld or jam lead shot in there as well. That, a good rebuild and a bigger jet and it is night and day better. Some may not agree with this, but it really helped on our car. Every other carb I have worked on that did not have this ran fine without it, and now this one does too.

I would make sure the vacuum advance is connected with just a hose from the distributor to the carb, and that the other connections are plugged at the source on a car from this era as well.

My vacuum advance vacuum cylinder (if thats what its called) is broken. I connected a vacuum pump to it and it leaks, no matter how much I pump it stays at 0 inches, and so the timing doesn't change.

I have plugged every unused connection, even the vacuum advance one since the vacuum cylinder leaks

70Dart: As you've noted, the Haynes manual will not do. You will save yourself a great deal of trouble and money and make life a lot easier for yourself if you will go get the three books described in this post. Definitely fix the blown vacuum advance one way or another, either by replacing the blown advance pod or by going to electronic ignition. There are multiple different ways to do the electronic ignition conversion, so ask questions on here if you like. A blown vacuum advance causes poor mileage and hesitation.
The device you're describing is called a HIC valve (for "Hot Idle Compensator"), and was not a California-only deal. It was used on most '70-'72 Chrysler Corp. carburetors (Carter, Holley, 1bbl, 2bbl, 4bbl) in all configurations (Federal, Canada, California, export), on some applications well beyond '72, and on many other years, makes and models and brands of carburetor. It's a bimetallic strip with a pintle valve on one end. When the bimetallic heats up, the pintle valve lifts off its seat and admits more air to the idle circuit. When the HIC valve is not working correctly, usually because one or both of its seals has hardened or cracked, you can get very poor idling and driveability. The HIC valve was introduced to prevent the overly-rich idle and low-speed mixture that results from high underhood temperatures. It might interest you to know that AC sold a lot of aftermarket add-on universal HIC valves from '64 or so through the end of the '70s. They called theirs the "AConomizer" and marketed it as a problem solver for hot-start/hot-idle problems. Chrysler phased out HIC valves on most applications in favour of cheaper-to-produce hot idle compensation methods.

Your fix (plugging it off) certainly solves the problems caused by a faulty HIC valve, and if the engine compartment is kept cool you'll rarely encounter a situation in which a HIC valve would help out. This is one of those things that I like to have working if it can be made to do so quickly and easily. If not...plug it off and move on with life!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have found an electronic ignition designed for a 75 dart, would this work If I were to use the electronic distributor and control module from the 75?