Quote:
: I do not know what the explanation is for your
: situation but! In order for the shifter to
: work, up inside the mechanism the levers
: have a hole/slot through them that as the
: shifter handle is moved left an right it
: picks up a lever so when you move the handle
: forward and back it moves the proper rod. If
: these holes are not lined up correctly then
: the lever will either not cross over or will
: hang up. That is the reason that they put
: the alignment hole thru the shifter, to make
: sure internally everthing is lined up. On
: the exterior of the mechanism where the rods
: attach the shape can be what ever it needs
: to be for the application but it should be
: obvious about alignment as the levers enter
: the mechanism.
:
: If you have factory style shift rods there is
: no need for a jam nut. One end is formed
: into the rod. The other end is part of the
: adjustment nut. Once it is sliped through
: the lever and clipped into place it can't
: turn anymore. Again the factory style (and
: quality aftermarket) rods I have seen have a
: fairly close tolerance fine thread that has
: so little play in it that the jam nut would
: not even buy you anything there either.
Hey, take it easy. You sound a little defensive.
Yes, these are factory(OEM) Hurst/Chrysler shifters and related hardware.
Yes, you need to line up the pin in the shifter for the forward gears.
But the pin lining up with the reverse lever has little or nothing to do with shift changes for the forward gears. The only instance where it would make a difference is in the extreme situation of such a severe maladjustment that reverse gear can be engaged while trying to shift into a forward gear. I am not sure that is even possible, but then again, I wouldn't bet against it.
I still maintain that on my '64 Dart 4spd and on my '66 'Cuda 4spd that lining up the pin with ALL THREE shifter levers did not work. Smooth gear changes were not possible until I adjusted the reverse rod separately, without regard to the pin hole.
There are two reasons for the jam nuts.
First, the threaded nuts on the ends of the shift rods are a rather loose fit, and I didn't want the force of hard gear changes working the threads and wearing them out any more than they already were. By using a jam nut on each side of the adjusting nut, I believe it 'solidifies' the connection and transfers the load on the female threads to two easily replaceable pieces(the jam nuts) that are a much tighter fit.
Second, I wanted to 'lock in' the adjustment, so if I have to disconnect the levers, I don't lose the adjustment and have to start over.
fglmopar@aol.com