I am going to Nebraska next weekend and I have some parts I'm leaving out there. Mike and I are starting on a new (for me) combination for a nitrous motor. I am leaving him the numbers matching block for my Duster and a set of NOS 225 rods, still in Chrysler boxes when I got them.

This motor is going to be at least +.100" over with real forged nitrous pistons and a CR of less than 10-1. I am going to have Mike float the pins steel-on-steel so that when I wick another piston I can just change it w/o having to have the pin pressed. Yes, I said WHEN. One thing I know for sure is that when you're dealing with boost, things are gonna get eaten.

Other than that. it is just gonna be a run of the mill steel crank Slant. Nuttin' fancy, just a down and dirty grunt motor that will get shifted at 6700. I am going to use the same 20+ year old Clifford cam that I bought from Mike used 3 years ago. My Jeffrey tray and Johnson scraper will probably end up inside too.

I pulled the crank and rods out of it today before I bagged and loaded it. Crank looks fine. I will take it to Rhyne or Book and get it checked and polished. This motor has over 160,000 on it and was still stock bore, but it looked like it has had a set of bearings stuck in it sometime before I got it.

I actually held a stock cam in my hands today without throwing up. I threw it in the scrap barrel for the junk man.

The whole point to this excersize is that I want to get my car deep into the 11's so I can be a player at RT66 in S/Pro. I intend on giving this thing a regular diet of 200 horse of hose and don't want it to break. IF I can get it reliable, it will go into my Duster when it gets finished someday. If not, the Duster gets a pig block.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Sounds like a good build. I am interested in the bearing longevity, and how well it performs. Keep us posted.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

You were bashing me pretty hard when I talked about installing a big block. Have you hit your head or are you seeing the light. Or both hit your head and see light.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

The reality is that I want a car capable of being competitive in S/Pro (11:99 or quicker) w/o being fragile. Since I am starting with the heaviest Duster built, I may have issues getting it light enough to run a Slant reliably. I think I can get the Duster to about 2900 w/me in it. I feel that I can run high 11's that way on less than a 180 shot. If I can, it will stay a Slant. If not, pig block.

Money and time are an issue with me. If I have to, I will put a pig block Chevy in it to keep costs down.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

OK, now you're just asking for it. I bought a running 1968 440 and transmission for $450. My friend Bob wanted to use his '52 Packard for a little bracket racing (he had a 396 in one years ago) and needed a motor, but I'm a Chrysler man and big block Chebys are twice the money and weigh more.

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Joshua

One other small detail you seem to overlook. I am not giving up on Slants because I can not tune one. IF this engine does what I want w/o being broken every other week it will stay in the car. However, I want to run with the really, really, big dogs with a heavy car and a Slant just may not fill the bill here.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

By the way a chevy small block seems to almost outrun the pig blocks for the money and are much easier to build for my taste. Slantzillla can you give me some personal insight on what it takes to run NOS besides the obvious? What engine prep does it take? Specifically in timing cause Megasquirt has a second timing table you can initiate when the NOS kicks in. Thanks

Is there more to it than setting the timing and tuning the carb to run the wide band O2 around 12.8 to 13.2? (no NOS)

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Could be since you never did get yours to run right. I guess that is an oversimplification though. You also have to know what you are doing when building, and have a machine shop that knows what they are doing.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

hey zilla, would you be willing to at least turn your A/C off for the pass or you're using NOS to make up for your fetish desire of getting ice cold air while spinning your tires at the track?

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Gimme a break. The A/C adds at most 25lbs of dead weight. I am not running it at the track.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Getting back to the question of what does it take besides a nitrous kit to plug it into your car? I still have stock bottom end relatively, I put all my work into the head. The only thing on the bottom I touched was 270 duration .45 lift. I was thinking maybe a 75 shot sometime, but going to put in 3.73 posi first to see how she livens up. Bren I thought you said you were done bothering us about non slant six stuff?

Its slant stuff

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

50 to 70 lbs of added weight depending on your rad, condenser, compressor and evaporator unit. Plus that knee breaker box that screams "GRANNY can't take a little heat"

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

My system replaces the heater box for an in dash setup. The heater box was replaced with the heater/evap esembly. No knee knocker here. Ohh and incase you didn't read my location its Florida, where A/C in not really a luxury its a necessity This swap nets about 5lbs more (indash). Under hood I am using the Sanden compressor with its braket which weighs about half that of the "twin" compressor alone. The AL radiator weighs less than the original one and the condenser is likely around 2 lbs. 2lbs for hoses and the total gain for heater only vs A/C is around 25 lbs.
Losses for driving the nonloaded compressor (off) is less than the water pump. (1-2hp?)

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir