I converted using a kit from Master Power Brakes and there is lots of clunking and ticking noises. When I first installed them they were so bad that I would ride the brake slity when driving by people on the sidewalk just to keep them quite. I was a little embaresing. Called MP and they said to bend the outer pad's tabs downward a little to make the pad fit tighter and not gingle. Well it helped alot with the ticking noise, but I still have a clunk if I apply the brakes. The only time there is not a clunk is if I lightly touch the brakes and then get on them. Kind of take the slop out of them before the real pressure is needed to stop the car.
What do you think I could do? Also I havn't tried the brake backing spray that I guess sort of "glues" the pad to the calipar. Maybe thats the answer.

http://tinyurl.com/ytpvuy
Pic of brakes

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Disc brake quiet or something. I have seen it in single foil packs in a point of purchase display at different auto parts stores. It is a high temp (the one I used last was blue) silicone product I think. You put a squiggle all over the back of the pad and let it dry before you install it. I think it both quiets the clunkyness and also helps dampen vibrations that could cause squeaks. I dunno- I was using it on my harley, I haven't had my swinger on the road since I put '73 discs on, so I don't know jack about mopar discs... but HD's have a lot of vibration (at least my '70s bikes do) and the frond discs would rattle at idle unless I held the brake. This stuff solved my problem on the bike, your app. should be no problem.

rdr

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madam im adam

YEp ,,just what he said. depends on who makes it but you will find it in RED or BLUE The stuff works great if used correctly. Been using it for years.

And factory parts from a 70s A-body a) don't make weird noises, b) fit perfectly, and c) have the robustness of factory engineering behind them.

I guess I'd understand all these high-dollar kits for disk brakes that are on the market IF there were no other choice... but I'd much rather stick with what Ma Mopar engineered for these cars.

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Make sure you check your wheel bearing adjustment. To me, this sounds exactly like a loose front wheel bearing (possible poorly seated bearing race).

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

This sounds ot me like the pads just have to much clearance between the holders. No amount of clue is going to help stop the clunk. Some of the factory setups are bad about getting warn where the pad rides and you can here the pad move like when you backup & then go forward.


I dont know how your pads holders are made but there are stanless steel shims that are like a cap that can be put on some of them. Welding the slot in the pad up some, or welding the holder up to take the clearance out is about the best thing you can do for them. Depending on how they are made it may be possible to put them in a press and close them up some but this is something I would be very cautions about. It may be possible to make a shim to go in the end of the pad. But if you can move the pad front to rear before instaling the caliper it will move like this and clunk when you change directions and use the brakes.



Jess

I worked on the passengerside a few days ago. Disesmbled and reesmbled after cleaning with brake clean and "glueing" with the CRC http://www.autobarn.net/ch05016.html . That side is much quieter. Driverside is next but its a little cold out right now.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I'm sorry to hear about dissatisfaction with a disc conversion! Maybe a wheel bearing is loose or not seated properly. I have converted two '64 Darts and a '64 polara to factory 11'' discs using junkyard parts from 73-76 A bodies. I've never had any rattles or other noises and I used the junk rotors with no machining! That old stuff is pretty good! I let all the rusty rotors and control arms sit in buckets of diluted Muriatic acid from Home Depot for a few hours. They came out rust free! -- pretty good trick If you ever do such a conversion.

Did you install the "anti-rattle clips? They help. My Factory A body disks rattled and clunked for two reasons: the pad arms need to be bent in until they are tight on the caliper, and the adapter slide surface gets a slot worn in it. When I switched to B body parts with the pins instead of sliders, all the noise went away. With the slider style disks I was always tightening the various bolts on the front end, thinking there was something about to fall off. There never was.

There is not much you can do to fix the grove worn in the adapter. You can seld that in, and then file it smooth, but I think you will be messing with the harness of the surface by doing this. You would really need to have them case hardened again. This can be done, of course, but it is one more thing to do.

On the A body parts, bending the tabs in, and gluing the pads to the caliper surfaces with the latex/silicone adhesive they sell for that helped very much. I think they called it Disk Quiet, or some such thing. It was neon pink, and came in an applicator that looked like a glue bottle. For some reason Mopar prefered the slider style as this is what they used most on their 70's and 80's RWD cars. I don;t know if it was money or time on the assembly line. Maybe Mopar thought the sliders were better, but that was not my experience. Just fiddle with things until you get it right. I am pretty sure the instructions that came with my after market pads for the slider style brakes said to bend those tabs in a little to tighten things up a bit.

Sam

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