I have an AX 15 from a 93 Dakota, which is similar to the R154 from what Ive seen. Even if you had to cut out part of the crossmember that goes above the trans in yours I don't see it as being a huge deal to modify it a bit if you have a MIG and some scrap metal; what you CAN'T do, is to cut it out and forget it; theres a guy on another site that put an A 500/518 in a 5th Avenue and had to modify his crossmember a bit. It took a bit of time but thats all part of the fun in these old cars; I bring up the 5th avenue, because it has the same chassis crossmember as your Volare. there will be a bit of put in/take back out as you fit things up, not alot of choice there unless youre lucky..... in that case what are tonight's winning numbers?

Non-R154 posts have been split out to 3 to four or five speed in this forum.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

As much as I don't like Toyotas, Hondas, front wheel drive vehicles (of any make; and yes, I know that theR-154 is a RWD trans) I really don't like the idea of putting a transmission derived from "over there" in my car, BUT since the one in my shed is obviously "related" to the one that you have, I can't help but to wonder what an AX-15 would look like next to an R-154 how close they actually are to each other. Things like; If I went with a R-154, (for its more favorable 1st gear)
1)would my AX-15 bellhousing fit the R-154 without modification?
2) What yoke would be needed? Something one-off, custom?
3) Would a conversion U joint get the job done?
4) If I find an R-154, would they all be the same? or are there years that are "more" desirable/weak-sister versions to avoid? Any idea on a HP/torque rating?
5)If in fact, the AX-15 and the R-154 are in fact, "that" close of "cousins", so to speak, would it be more feasible to use a 3.9 V6 Dakota bell (same pattern as a SB V8) with one of those V8 to slant adapters, either the one that was standard to join a SB 727 to a slant 6, or the one that was made and sold on here a few years ago? If the Dakota BH would work then you could adapt the Dakota hyd clutch setup easily enough!
6)One last question about such a swap; What are you doing for a throwout bearing; 6a) how are you adapting the one for the trans to your OE Mopar clutch fork 6b) or did you have to fab up a new fork to work with the t-o bearing? 6c) what about the pilot bushing/bearing?
7) How hard are these to find in the junkyards (I'm gonna do a search per Dan's favorite link and on Ebay too) 7b) how hard-to-find/get, are parts, and how do they price out compared to more "conventional" or more "common" transmissions that people would be to swap into their cars?
I bought my trans because it was factory installed in Dakotas as well as Cherokees/ Wranglers (can't get more "American" than a Jeep, right?) I figured that I'd be (to steal/modify a line from every GM air cleaner housing made at least into the 80s; "keeping my Mopar all Mopar") but in the overall scheme of things, I guess I am not.

Almost everything you want to know is in here:

http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740

http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/attachment ... 1104764108

1. Yes, the 3.9L V6 Dakota bell bolts up to the R154 perfectly



2. You'll need an R154 yoke and driveshaft to start with. AX15 has different splines. Go over to the Supramania board. Loads of guys have them for sale.

3. Don't know. You can buy a yoke new from NAPA. I think Toyota V6 truck is the same. Got this info from another board:

good news guys, just found out that spicer started making a 1350 slide yoke for the r154 about 4 months ago.

Part number is 3-3-3558

with a 1350, you can get a yoke in about any size, so a starion tube would be easy to adapt. Even better would be to make a sandwichi plate for the torque tube to accept a spicer 1350, which is my next goal.

http://members.optushome.com.au/uber-2/135000.jpg


4. All R154's are pretty much the same. Same gear ratio's. Only difference is some have an extra connector for ABS and some don't. Makes no difference in a conversion.

5. Don't know about the slant to small block adapter. In theory, it could work, but you'd probably have to space something back to get everything to line up. If you wanted to use the R154 with a Dakota hydraulic throw out set up, you'd have to get the front bearing cover from an AX15 and swap it on to the R154. It's longer and will work just right. You'll have to use a Toyota clutch disk however. The input splines are not the same.

6. Easy to find. Carpart.com or Supramania.

Greg

Thanks Greg. I saw something on these trannys online somewhere about a year or so ago. Don't remember where, maybe the advance adapters site.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Don't kill me guys, but as this car's set up for a v8 and I have a Magnum going in the V6 bell and "big" flywheel is what this app. has to have, but thought that if it could be adapted to the slant, someone who "may" have one of the adapters laying around that I asked about may be able to use it to help them out if they decide to go with one of these trannys.

This isn't working out so far.

First, it not Spicer, it Hardy Spicer. Best I can tell, it the Australian division of Dana Spicer.

Second, the part # doesn't check out. Couldn't find a 3-3-3558 anywhere, but I did find a 21R-3-3558, which does show "Toyota Supra Turbo" under comments. Don't know, maybe the part number changed at some point.

Lastly, the 21R-3-3558 part # shows 23 splines, but everything I been able to find shows the R154 has a 21 spline output shaft. Maybe for the MKIV Twin Turbo Supra?

There is a part # 21R-3-3208 shown for Toyota 5 Speeds with 21 splines, and also a 2R-3-3188 that is dimensionally identical. I suspect the 2R part uses the standard u-joint, but the 21R uses the 1350 u-joint.

Haven't figured out how to order one, or how much yet.

edit -

Can't seem to make the info match up with the 1350 u-joint either. Looks like the yoke fits a 27.39mm (1.078") u-joint cap, but the 1350 cap is 1 3/16" diameter.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Dang! Here's the repository for all the good R-154 swap info on the planet!


FWIW, regarding the Liberty bellhousing option, I learned after getting the bell that it needed a dust shield, block plate, somethingorother, or there is no way to positively locate the starter. There's no pocket in the bell to hold the nose of the starter, so a steel plate sandwiched between the bell and the block has a ring machined that does the trick. If I get my core starter in tomorrow, I should be able to mock up the whole system tomorrow night. Fingers crossed...

Clair

Hey Clair,

Good to see you on here. Thinking about swapping to a Slant?? Hope the projects are going well.

Lou Madsen

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hey, Lou,
Back a ya, I try to stop in periodically as the tech here kicks butt.

A slanty has always been on my list of things to do. Specifically with forced induction and EFI, but I haven't found the right candidate yet. Maybe if I could find the right Sweptline D-100...

Clair

I knew you dropped by here, Clair, but I didn't know you were a member.

Give us time, you'll think those old school V8's are boring.

Looking forward to hearing back about your setup. Been curious what was happening.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Yep, this is where people know how to extract some power/cu in! Nice folks too.

Cheers,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Message to Hardy Spicer:

To: russell.plowman@hardyspicer.com.au
Subject: Toyota slip yoke


Hello,
Do you make a slip yoke to fit the 87-92 Toyota
Supra Turbo R154 to a 1350 u joint?

Greg

Message from Hardy Spicer:

Hi Greg,

Thanks for your inquiry.

I am not sure of the exact Toyota gearbox models they fit but we have
made
a 1350 slip yoke to suit Toyota's large 23 spline usually found in
supra
turbo and some 2wd light truck models that we use here for drift and
drag
cars etc.

Part no. 3-3-3558 S/YOKE 1350 TOYOTA 1.20" X 23SP 40 mm ground seal
diameter

We do not have 21 sp Toyota in 1350 series. Please check spline count
and
seal diameter before ordering.

Price is Aus$168.04

Airfreight to US approx Aus$40

See attached web link
http://www.hardyspicer.com.au/1350_performance_2006.asp

Please forward email to Russell if you wish to order as I am still on
leave.

Thanks and Best Regards

Andrew Abbott
Manager Driveline (Automotive)
Hardy Spicer (Australia)
1/9 Monterey Rd
Dandenong South
Victoria , Australia 3175

Also:

Dear Greg,

Yes, we do have this item available. Our part no. 3-3-3558. See the
attached
catalogue extract to confirm that it is what you require.

Regards,
Russell Plowman.
Manager - Industrial & Off Highway Driveline.
Hardy Spicer.

OK... Count your splines...

Greg

Can't count mine, it's behind a bunch of parts in storage with about 2' of snow in front of the door.

Josh? Clair?

I'm guessing the 23 spline setup is for the V160 in the MKIV Supra Twin Turbo cars.

I did identify the ujoint that fits the 21R part. It's matches the 7260 Mopar "small" u-joint. Anybody know the capacity?

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car