This site will be a place for me to get some good info on a /6 I am getting started on. It looks different here so it will take some time for me to use it good.
This is 1 of two sites I have joined, so give me a little time to get use to it. I live in NorthEast Arkansas and I am just getting started using a computer. A big thanks to the folks at fabo that has got me going

I am doing a driver and looker 63 valiant and I have a offy 4bll intake.
I do not want to change spring or valves in a 1980 and up 225 non adjustible head
I will be putting a new cam and hydraulics lifters in a 170 /6.
What cam would be best for this application.
I will be running headers and x pipe and good mufflers to keep it quit as I can, Jump on in and give me some advice and tell me if I am going in a bad direction.

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Keep it neat on the streets and fast at the track

Hey Mike.,..good to see you here!

Mike, welcome aboard.

Keeping the non-adjustable valve gear creates added work and sticks you with somewhat hard to find and expensive lifters. You also have to groove the rear cam journal to deliver oil full time to that valve gear and have custom pushrods made as 170 pushrods are shorter. What I would do is use mechanical valve gear with stock solid lifters and pushrods. You'll have many more off the shelf cam choices too.

To give a decent cam recommendation we need to know more about the car. Auto or manual transmission, if auto stock or higher stall torque converter, compression ratio and rear end gear ratio. With a stock torque converter, stock valve springs and low compression ratio the cam is going to end up quite mild.

Unless you really want the sound of duals (and don't use an x-pipe if you do) use a single pipe. You'll save money and weight. Muffler choice will be the big factor in noise.

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Joshua

Thanks Slanted66.
I am getting restless and I think I will build the upper part of my motor.
And I have been told this is the place for some great info.

Back to my build !!! Will I need to buy deferent push rods for the above
change over in my first post. Or can I use 1963 170 /6 push rods
on a hydro cam and none adj rockers?

Thanks for the time of all the great tec's here.

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Keep it neat on the streets and fast at the track

Alright !! Thank you so much
Know I will keep the /6 solid lifters and stay with the 170 head.
The car this is a 1963 valiant and it is a beautiful 4 door.
all original . Automatic and I will not use a x pipe!! and do a Y pipe Thanks.
54k on this nice little car I just want to keep it as a show and go car.
I will just have to learn more about adjusting the valves.
The head is where I am starting and I will be running a small four bll on it.
Factory gears and stall. I just like to turn key and drive, I will up grade to electronic eng, and disc brakes. so with that said you can see I am wanting a good look under the hood and a good sound with out loosing hp.
I will have a head completely checked out.

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Keep it neat on the streets and fast at the track

No, the ends are different and the hydro set-up needs a oil passage way thru the push rods to feed oil to the hydro lifters.
DD

You can use the later head, you just need to use your mechanical valve gear with it. For a stock 170 like yours I wouldn't do anything wilder than the 254° RV10M Erson cam. Once you're willing to change valve springs, go to a higher stall converter and up the compression a bit you can go wilder on the cam.

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Joshua

I wouldn't skip on anything in the head. The nice thing about the slant is you can go pretty wild before anyone is going to notice you've played with it, wait your putting a four barrel on! No, but serious if you got it apart I wouldn't be afraid to step up any performance now, cause you will apreciate it even in a stockish build. That being said....
The stock valves and springs will be fine for a resto, honestly the bigger valves are only good if you can truly unshroud them and truly use them. The springs are of for anything under .46 lift according to the last time we measured them with the compressor tool (I might be a little off). The 170 lacks a little bit of torque but nicer upperend that being said I would look at the isky 264 with .44 lift this shifts your engine characteristics to the mid range which is where the 170 should shine over the 225. It's pretty close to what I run and it was a nice difference without making it a horrible idle.
Your the builder and it's your car of course, but I did a nice performance upgrade of my six for about $800 which was a dramatic improvement, still great gas, and is still daily driven. Good luck!

Thank runvs_826.
I will stay with the stock 170 head on the motor.
It is numbers matching to the car
What are the things I can do to play with it !!?
I want to use oem valves and springs. I am scared and unsure of doing allot to a good motor and what I am doing.
So from what I am hereing" if I am reading it right" is the Offy 4bl intake "for Show" and headers
with a small carb will hurt my hp and drive ability and not work well.

with New springs, cam and lifter set without drilling or machine work dun to the head, Seance I am buying new spring and retainers What spring
can I use whithout machine work.
Will This 170 /6 run just fine and work well with headers and a offy 4bl intake with a the right size carb on it?
I will be leaving the block stock and new head work.
I will be keeping the 71/4 rear end and I don't want to through allot at it.
So what lift and duration would give me the results I am looking for that can be bout for this 170.
As you can see I have yet to build a /6,
And for me to go to a shop and ask!! I would not be sure of there exp..
When you say playing with it what are your thoughts? Thanks again.

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Keep it neat on the streets and fast at the track

OEM valves and springs are fine. I only suggest putting some machine work in your head while you have it apart. A three angle valve job, seats, bronze guides, and mill .1 off the head. This will liven the engine up just enough to really appreciate it. The block can be left alone assuming your crank and bores are fine. New bearings and the cam I listed above will make it a nice little engine. The offy will work great with a 390cfm and see if you can't find an electiric choke for those (I run EFI so I'm outdated on carb stuff). The headers should finish the sound and power.
You should be able to wind her to 5200rpm no problem with this setup which is pretty average and get decent mileage. The big thing is make sure you do you research and can tell your machine shop what to do. I've seen a couple guys just trust someone with their engine and be severaly dissapointed. Any other questions or such shoot me a pm. Wes

At the present time there are no headers that will fit the 170 engine in a 1966 or earlier "A" body chassis, without modifications. Be aware of this, before you spend money for headers.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Mike
Bout time you came over here. Are you over the flu yet? We are on the road this weekend but give me a shout later this afternoon on my cell and we can chat. You should have the number from a PM at FABO.
Remember Im only 1 hour away.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Be careful about milling a lot of material off a head going onto a 170 because these engines are higher compression right out of the factory and tend to be closed to "spec" compression when actually measured.
A 170 is a "zero deck" engine and it is pretty easy to get valve to piston contact when changing cams and milling the head.

Always take your measurements, "do the math" and make an informed choice about how much material to machine off a cylinder head. (don't forget about the head gasket thickness, measure your old head gasket before tossing it in the trash can)
DD

Doug is completely right. I apologize that I hadn't done my research (see it gets everyone). I've only seen 225 and wasn't aware there was major differences, but it makes sense now since it has a shorter sleeve. That being the case I would mill it just enough to clean it up and a little more. It should be in the thousands not hundreds now. The header comment would make me lean either towards Dutra Duals on stock manifold. The heating is an issue (Bren has had this problem recently I believe) that the bottom of the intake isn't hot enough to evaporate puddled liquid fuel. I fully believe in headers, but never forked out the cash for six cylinder setups.
Another thought is is you look at Doug's article about "Stroking the Slant Six" he talked about a 170 with a 198 crank in it. This to me personally sounds like the best engine combo, just something to read on, probably not the cheapest or quickest option. Wes

So I will need to run the cast iron manifold?
It is a push button trans, If that make a difference
So do you think the offy 4bl with a small carb will be just fine. or do you see problems there too.
I have herd you are the man to ask on another site.
Thanks for your time Charrlie_S.

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Keep it neat on the streets and fast at the track