I've got the super six mainfold and now I'm looking at putting a Weber 32/36 on it. This is going on my 65 Dart, just a stock cruiser.

Carbsonly showed me some pictures of a counter clockwise rotation throttle shaft and all they did was to tack weld the throttle bracket to the throttle linkage bracket. Looked pretty simple?? Any opinions on this?

The other question is what adapter do I need? To adapt the Weber to my 2bbl manifold. Does anyone make one for this application? I've searched and read but sometimes it just confuses me more.

Any help on this dead horse topic would be most appreciated.

I don't know the answers to your questions, but I would like to know as well. I've been looking at Weber carbs online, and the 32/36 DGV 5A is what I think I'm going to go with. I will be using an Offy 4bbl manifold, so I'll have to purchase and or fabricate some sort of adapter. This carb and intake combo is going on a stocker.
Anybody???

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

There is a kit to put a Weber DGV on the Jeep 2bbl manifold in place of the original Carter BBD. Same kit can be used on the Super Six intake.
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Catalogpages/jeep.htm
Kit K551 for the carb and everything. 99004.551 for just the Weber carb to small 2bbl (including the BBD) manifold.

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Joshua

I checked out that link, thanks!
I also was given a link by a guy over the phone: www.carbsonly.com

It has pretty much the same stuff as the link you posted.
Thanks again!

Another question, out of curiosity. How much cfm does the 32/36 DGES flow?

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

380 cfm.

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vm

I dont know exactly but I have seen in print somewhere around mid 300CFM. I have a Weber book here and I will see if I can dig that up. The size of the throttle plates tells me they want flow that much but you cant really go by that all the time. Booster & Venture size effects flow a lot.


For most slant six mild builds I do feel like the 32/36 DGV 5A would make a great setup for good milage and power. I do feel like bottom end torque will be very low until the secondary is opened on the carb to give it good flow.

The DGAS 38 would be a better choice for a super six intake with slight mods to the engine. This carb will give great off throttle responce and mid,top end power. If the tune is pushed real good it can do as good as the smaller carb with MPG and on a super six intake it may even be able to do better providing you go through the steps to get the carb jets & air bleeds correct for the setup.

The Jeep setup would be the one to work. There use to be a kit made just for the slant six and it may still be able to bought. The biggest difference would be the linkage attachment used which would help, but not be nessessary to get one of these carb working on a SS intake.


One thing about either of these carbs is they are very tunable and can be changed to work with any changes you could do to your /6. If a pure stock setup is what you have the 32/36 would probably be the way to go, but even as much as bigger exhaust on a stock manny is used the 38 is going to make a much better setup.


Now if you where going to go to a duel intake later on like the Offy duel one barrel intake that these carbs can be adapted to I would stick to the 32/36. You could buy one now and find a intake when one turns up and then buy the other carb later. Even though you would be a little down on power with the one 32/36 when you got the duel setup two of them would be great.

Its hard to beat a Weber but tuning jets do cost a bit. Anywhere between $49.00 to $69.00 for calibration kits. They do last good though and are very easy to rebuild when the time comes. If you get the kit that is setup for the Jeep the jetting should be very close to spot on out of the box.



Jess

The carbsonly person gave me a photo of the 65 Dart stock linkage being adapted to the counter clock wize carb looked pretty simple does anyone see a problem with that?

Thanks.

On the CFM, I cont find any docs from Weber comfirming CFM of these carb. There is a lot of conflicting info out there that tells many differnt CFM ratings.


The best I can weed through all that I find, and by doing some area calculations from know flow of other setups I come up with the this

The DGV 32/36 flows 325 CFM @ 3" vac
The DGAS 38/38 flows 390 CFM @ 3"vac


Its important to know that four barrel carbs are tested at 1.5" vac instead of the 3"vac that two barrels are flowed at. In the end these carbs are what I would call inbetween the factory BBD & a Holley 500 two barrel.

The DGAS 38/38 should be a blast on a super six setup.


Jess

Here are the pictures.

http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s270 ... deview.jpg

http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s270 ... leweld.jpg

I tried adding [img]and[/img] at the front and end...but it no worky...so I guess you'll have to click on the links??

just a test....yea...I finally passed the test.

This is from Carbsonly. Note the welding of the throttle bracket. Seems pretty simple...I like it...any pros and cons.

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65 Dart Vert

Per an old catalog I have:


NOTES:
1. The DGV series carb ( 32/36 ) is a progressive 2 stage opening to 320 cfm, used for small engines under 260 cu. in. with mileage as a prime objective yet with more H.P.
2. The DGES series carb ( 38/38 ) with manual choke is a straight 2 barrel carb with an opening of 380 cfm. This is the best power choice for mid-size engines up to 290 cu. in.


I'm assuming you meant a 32/36 DGV, not a DGES, but I'm not a Weber expert.

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vm

Hmmm, yeah the 38/38 was great on a 225...

I never tried a 32/36, so I have no idea

The more I look at the welded on bracket....it doesn't seem like it would pivot properly?? Now if the bracket on the carb was modified so that it was at the center of the throttle shaft it probably would work better??

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65 Dart Vert

Thanks for the replies fellas!
I'm probably going to go with the 32/36 DGV as my slant is stock, with the exception of "Dutra Duals". Also, I like high performance, but mileage is a good thing too. Gas prices... ARRGH!!!
Later guys,

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Have you had a 32/38 in your hands to see just how small the front barrel of these carbs really is. It will have less power than the factory one barrel until you kick it WOT. The second half of the carb doesnt open until the very last bit of throttle also, wich means if you are in a spot to really need much more power it will take kicking the carb to get it.


The 38/38 would be able to get every bit as much fuel MPG as the other as long as your not throttling it a lot in between red lights just for fun. And it want need throttled much to get more power when you just need to pick a bit of speed up like when getting on a entrance ramp on the highway or such type driving.

But when you do want to play around, half peddle with the 38 is going to be much more power.

Either carb will probably need tuning to get real good MPG. Although the 38 does cost more, if the budget allows it I thing it would be a lot better choice. You also might need to consider that either carb may end up needing a fuel pressure requlator because the Weber only likes one pressure setting. Depending on the carb they take either 2 1/2, 3 1/5 and some take around 4 1/5 PSI. If this pressure is not what the carb wants or is setup to use it can cause many problems ranging from having big lean spots, overly rich conditions (even both problems at the same time but differnt throttle ranges) or even totally unable to get it tuned.


I think the two carbs we are talking about here run at 3 1/2 PSI pressure and it is possible that the factory fuel setup may supply this as is, but it will need checked.


Just for reference I got better MPG out of my Holley 500 on a SS intake than my factory one barrel carb. Both carbs where tuned very good but the best I could get out of the one barrel was 21 on the highway, we got 24 out of the Holley running at the same A/F ratio. Ofcourse if I started playing around in town and giving the Holley carb half throttle just to be having fun (with the extra power its hard not to do that) the Holley would use more fuel in town. But if I drove normal it matched the one barrel on in town driving.



Jess