Hey there....I recently bought a 64 Valiant and I've gotten through some repairs on my own but I need some help with this one. The front exhaust manifold stud is broken. There is an obvious leak. Ive been told the "right way" to repair it is to pull the manifolds and get the stud drilled out and tapped. So, I figured if I remove the manifolds and have them resurfaced, I'll get the head rebuilt while the car is down anyway. So, about this process...Is there any certain way to go about pulling the manifold(s) to prevent warpage or breakage?....i.e. Any sequence of nut removal?? Hey...any advice is welcome for the newbie. I'm sure I'll have other questions so hope you guys can help out. Thanks.

You are not going to warp a manifold by removing it. I suspect that the manifolds crack due to poor tuning (lean?) because I have never cracked one in over 20 years of running slants. What say you, Doug?

When I re-install, I tighten in a circular pattern from the center nut, working out to the edges. Remember that the torque spec on the manifold is 10 ft/lbs. I never use anything other that a 1/4 drive socket to prevent over-torquing.

As far as that broken bolt, the only way I like to do it is to pull the head and take it to a machine shop to have the stud removed. Half the time they break an easy-out off in the hole trying to remove the stud. Better them that you!

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Thanks for the response Chuck. I appreciate the help. So here are some more things Ive been thinking about....should I buy a head with exchange or should I have mine rebuilt and use it again?? There is a chance the head will need seats intalled which could get pricey. Also, which gaskets and sealants are recommended? Any certain brand of studs to use? And what is the setup for the "conical" washers? I see mostly round washers on mine. Who supplies the conical washers?? Thanks again.

The number one reason why SL6 exhaust manifolds crack is because of incorrect installation. All the proper washers must be used and the light torque spec. must be followed.

The exhaust manifold must be allowed to slide over the gasket surface as it expands and contracts with heat.

If you need the special washers then run out to your local junkyard to grab some or just post a want ad, I know I have a large can full of these.

As for getting the manifolds on and off, use a lot of penetrating oil and soak them ahead of time. Work the nuts carefully in and out until they come off.

For broken studs, center drill them and drill them out, re-tap the hole. I never even think about using an "easy-out".
DD

Hey...thanks for the help. I got over the small trepidation and just put the wrench to use. I only managed to break off one more stud upon head removal. But now, everything is at the machine shop and I've got more down time to ask annoying questions. I guess I need some conical washers and looks like Doc might have a few extra......hmmmmm. Hey if you're willing to part with a few I would really appreciate it. Let me know what they run. I have 4...which means I need 8??? I guess. Uhh...and what kind of gasket sealant are you guys using? Permatex? Gaskacinch?
Any other help for reinstall would be great. How do you get your valves timed up right when you put the head back on? Anything else I should take care of at this point?? Thanks again....this forum is a huge help.

Hey....about the intake/exhaust washer configuration on a 225. I have all the washers I removed and of course didnt pay attention to how they were arranged. I have 5 triangular washers, some flat round ones and some conical round ones. What do I do? Where do they go back on? The Repair Manual doesnt spell it out. Thanks.....Gerard

I could guess and tell you where each one goes, but it would be far better to try using the search button on the header's tool bar. Doc had an old posting on there, about what washers to use where. It is a very astute question, because it does matter.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

Hey Bud...I searched the Old Forum and I think I found the info I needed on the washer configuration. Thanks for the steer in the right direction. This site really has a ton of info and helpful members....thanks again.

Intake - Exhaust manifold install on a Slant needs to be done carefully, doing good prep. and getting the washers in the correct place is key.
Here is a pic that shows where the washers go.
DD

Hey...this is perfect. Just the kind of thing I need.... A diagram. I was a little confused by the written description, but now I have no good reason to screw it up....knock on wood.

Truth is that on many Slants I build I use the "triangle washers" on the lower middle position. (the factory used the round ones)
Access to these can be tight but they do fit and give a wider contact on the manifold tabs.

I have a surprizing amount of info on manifolds and installation, seems like it's a trouble spot so I will try to put together a tech article on this topic.
DD

I have never seen a Slant with conical washers in the lower middles. Mine have all had triangles there. I feel kinda left out.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I'm with Slantzilla. The only place I have seen the conical washer is on the upper middle. The brass washers on the ends, with the cup out and the tapered/slit end of the nut into the washer.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

All the setups I've seen are as Charlie described.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster