Hey folks, new member here. Recently bought a '64 Dart 270 (225cid /6) in fair condition. I'm fairly new to working on cars in general so, needless to say, I'm new to this engine. But I'm learning alot, learning fast, and enjoying the hell out of it. I've been browsing this forum for a few months now and it has been very helpful. Thanks to all moderators and members for making this resource available to me.

On to my first issue: The block's drain plug. I need to drain the cooling system to replace the intake/exhaust manifold gasket but when I remove the plug... well, it's still plugged. (The plug that I am talking about is just inches to the left of the oil filter on the passenger side of the engine. If I am wrong about what this plug actually is, please let me know ). I don't currently have visibility into the hole but when I poke around with a screwdriver, I find that it is plugged solid with a dry, black... something. I started scraping it out and was expecting to dig right through it until coolant drained out of it but that didn't happen - I mean solid.

So, now that I've had a bit to think about it, I'm settling on "Ah, crap. Now what?" Can I (or should I) continue my excavation effort and hope to strike coolant? Does anyone have any advice for me? I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

Ryan

You do not need to drain the coolant to remove and replace the manifolds unless you happen to unscrew one of the manifold studs from the cylinder head.

Sounds like you are digging sediment from the water jacket. Keep going.

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Joshua

Yep, ya got gunk. Just probe around in there some more until you get coolant coming out. My block was the same way, and since I've got to replace the water pump when I get back to the states, I'm planning on running a cooling system flush (just the NAPA stuff) through before installing the new pump (with new hoses and a new rad and heater core while I've got it all apart). Hopefully the flush will help loosen and break up some of the old crap in there so I can just flush it through with clean water once I've got everything off. I wish I could just hot tank it, but that'll have to wait until there's a different engine in the car...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Thanks for the replies. I'll keep going and see how it goes. I have to drain it because - you called it! - the nut on the first exhaust manifold flange is stuck to the stud, so the stud itself actually comes out of the head instead of the nut coming off of the stud.

Actually, this brings up another question: Since the stud was pulled and coolant leaked into the first exhaust port when I first had a go at this, would it be a good idea to change the oil again? Is there anything else I should do to prevent any damage from this?

Thanks again for your guys' help!

Ryan

If the exhaust valve is closed I would get out the shop vac and suck the coolant out of the port. If the valve was open I'd pull the spark plug and use a tube and the vacuum to suck out the coolant.

Hopefully the coolant has antifreeze with decent corrosion protection so you don't get rust in the cylinder. Changing the oil can't hurt. If you haven't run the engine and circulated the coolant the oil filter won't have coolant inside.

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Joshua