well as some of you know I have a 2dr '79 Volare with a blown slant, i just picked up a '76 slant and tranny (for a $100, out of a dart, ka ching !!), now I"m in the process of tearing it apart( because it had sat for 3yrs) going to have the block hot tanked and magna fluxed, and give it a basic rebuild.

But I am not sure if it has a cast crank, or forged, how can I tell ?

Is there a way to make the crank lighter ? ie knife edging, and radiusing, and is it worth it ?

being a '76 is it a 225 or 198 ? I already have the head off and couldn't find the stamp anywhere,

Thanks for all the help guys, and eventually I will have her running again,

-Mike[/b]

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Post a photo of the crank or find it's part number, that is usually in the middle of the piece.


Apart form basic deburring, crankshaft weight reduction is not worth the trouble.
The number should be on the top deck surface, near the coil mounting area.
DD

Well I finally got the oil pan off and there is nothing but black crusty sludge on the crank and in the pan, looked on the crank and couldn't find a part number but i will finish cleaning it tomorrow. there is no part number by the coil pad, i think the block has been decked, because i measured the piston to deck height of the blown block and my new '76 block, and the '76 is about 1/16th of an inch shorter.

I found a number on the side of the #6 cylinder ( on the block, passenger side) 5B368645
1

Also the distributors, and brackets are different between the '76 and '79, are there any other differences between the '76-'79 engines ?

Thanks,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Also the lifters are a pain in the ass to pull out from the top, flipped block over and can barely push them out, is that normal ?

Do the load from the bottom ?

Also is it better to stick with mechanical lifters/rockers/pushrods/cam, or is it better to convert it to hydraulic ?

Is there a hydraulic roller setup out there for the slant ?


Thanks,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

well answered my own question about lifters ( had baked on oil around the bottoms, flipped block right side up and they pushed right out)

Also is it better to stick with mechanical lifters/rockers/pushrods/cam, or is it better to convert it to hydraulic ?

Is there a hydraulic roller setup out there for the slant ? Is it worth it ?

Also how tuneable is the carter 2bbl ? are there after market metering rods and jets available for it ? Will the eddy carb parts work ?

Oh and the block has been decked slightly

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I found out the Comp cams makes 2 cams for the slant still,

a

Part No.K642404 Competition Cams High EnergyTM; Camshaft Kit
High Energy(Tm); Camshaft Kit: Mechanical Flat Tappet; 800-4500 Rpm; Advertised Duration 252 Int./Exh.; Valve Lift .435 Int./Exh.; Lobe 110 Deg; Includes Cam; Lifter; V.Sprng/Ret./Lock/Seal; Timing Set;

and a

Part No.K642414 Competition Cams High EnergyTM; Camshaft Kit
High Energy(Tm); Camshaft Kit: Mechanical Flat Tappet; 1200-5000 Rpm; Advertised Duration 264 Int./Exh.; Valve Lift .440 Int./Exh.; Lobe 110 Deg; Includes Cam; Lifter; V.Sprng/Ret./Lock/Seal; Timing Set

both complete cam kits are $379.99 through advanceautopart.com, but which one would be better for a daily driver/occasional strip car ?

Also Should I stick with the carter 2bbl ? or switch to a holley ?

I have a holley 2bbl # R 6889 came off a 400BB, buddy gave it to me for free, I know it will need some kind of adapter plate its base is about 3/4 of an inch wider than the carter 2bbl, but is it over kill ? it weighs twice as much as the carter, but will it offer better performance ?


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Read this thread http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21400 then give Tom a call. Tell him what you have and what kind of use you will give the car. Let him make a reccommendation. Should be a much better deal.

]

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Comp will grind about anything you want. I got an Extreme Energy cam from them a few years ago. It worked very well.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks charrlie, I will definitly be giving tom a call, about cam selection. i finally broke down and am selling my tool box which should give me about $2,000 to play with, i am shooting for 300WHP NA ( but if its easier I will run nitrous), and still keep it a daily driver, about how much power loss will be encountered through out the drive train ? just so I know what kind of engine (crank) Hp to shoot for.

What would you guys recommend for a stout combo to hit those numbers ?

I am sending the block out next monday to be prepped, and decked, I kinda wanted to stick with a stock bore just freshen up the cylinders with a light hone, or should I over bore it ?

They will finish cleaning it and sonic checking it and also magna fluxing it for me.

What would be a good forged piston to use if I stay with a stock bore ?

If they check (size wise) out ok should i keep the stock rods and crank(polish the crank) ?

port and polish the head and combustion chambers

Would it be easier to use nitrous to hit my 300whp goal ?

I am not sure what gears in the rear I was told ( its a '87 5th ave 8 1/4 rear) 2.44 ?s open of course, what would you guys reccomend for a rear gear ? suregrip ? true trac ? high or low gear ?

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

would swapping in 198 rods be worth it or should i stick with my 225 rods ?

Can i stick with stock pistons or should i go with either silvolite 1250 flat tops or 1294 2.500' Dia. Head Recess .210' Deep. Low Compression pistons ?

How do I determine compression ratio, or can the machine shop do that for me ?

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

also when porting the head (gasket matching) there is a thick rib leading up to the valve guide, can that be ground out and blended for better airflow ?

will it hurt the valves rigidity if the valve guide is also ground down to blend the bowl better ?

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Mike
My sugestion is to READ and Search on this site til you cant see straight. Write what works and what you want down on paper. Then look at your actual budget. Then stick to it.
Just my 02.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Id keep with the 225 rods. 198 rods are not the easiest thing to find and to me just not the worth the average $150 asking price. The 198 rod seems like it would be more prone to bending under something like heavy nitrous use or something. Id say stay with 225 rods and use the arp rod bolts. My 2 cents on this...

Mike,
When your setting up a head for race only and using the bigger valves, some folks do cut that down to smooth it out but, yes it doesn't support the valve as well, but you can get bigger diameter valves with bigger stems.

On my head it was smoothed and blended all the way around the valve guide to enhance the flow and still provide maximum support.
On porting we spent more time opening up the exhaust side compared to the intake. It does help make a little more power.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG