H'mmm. That's interesting. How/why?
You're wanting to try using the '74 pitman arm with the '63 drag link and idler arm...? I don't think that's going to work, anglewise. Why not just use the '63 ('62-'66) pitman arm?
It'll take some doing...the '74 column is a collapsible safety type, so it mounts differently. Length is probably different, bolt pattern to the firewall is definitely different, diameter is bigger. Do a lot of measuring...!
There is a modification available for the buttonbox to allow it to control a '66-up rod-shifted Torqueflite...that might be your easiest and cleanest way forward. Besides, driving a pushbutton automatic is good for the mental health. That's a scientific fact.
The wheel doesn't know what's at the other end of the shaft. You can't swap the steering shaft between '63 and '74 colums (see above; collapsible safety colums don't have a solid steel shaft like pre-'68 columns do)

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

On the pitman arm/steering wheel allignment, I dunno. Everything is keyed, so it went together the way it went together.

I changed from Power Steering to manual. I have the Firmfeel adapter for the shaft, and Firmfeel's pitman arm for the manual box.

Since I haven't looked closely at the '63's drag link placement, here's a question: Does the drag link run in front of the shaft, or behind it?
On the '74 the pitman arm points back from the steering box to the drag link.

I'll give Firmfeel a call to see what can be done. This doesn't bode well for putting the '63 stuff into the '74.

So. The '63 Pitman arm can be used on the later steering box? I thought that was something that wouldn't work...

As I don't know the condition of the manual box in the '63, perhaps I should check it out. We'll see what it's condition is.

Where do I access the conversion for the push button to my rod shift A904. That sounds like the ticket!

I'll have the driveshaft cut, then adapted to the Ford 8" I saved the driveshaft from the Maverick.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Nope. The shaft is one I had made for the Duster when I put the 8-3/4" rear in. It has the same amount of yoke showing in the '66 as it did in the '76.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Ah, the 8¾" rear axle requires a driveshaft about 2" shorter than the 7¼" unit, so there's the answer.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Same on the '63.
So did I, and so does Hollander, but Josh says it'll work. Maybe you can give it a bench-try and let us know for sure?
Same place where you get the polyurethane motor mounts: Imperial Services. I just spoke with Steve (the guy who runs the place) and he reports that he is trying like heck to have the '62-'66 A-body slant-6 polyurethane safety-interlock motor mounts ready for Carlisle. I believe him. Product development and bring-to-market almost always takes way longer than expected or predicted, and he's got a good enough reputation that I don't think we're dealing with a dreamer here. The buttonbox conversion service involves sending the buttonbox (and cables? Not sure) to him for the conversion work. Expect a wait, but it is known to work correctly.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The manual steering boxes are the same so you can move your new manual box into the '63 if it's box is wheezed. If the '63 has a good steering box you might as well leave it be. All the manual steering boxes except C-body and B-van are small sector shaft.

It to be expected that changing the steering box and pitman arm that your steering wheel would be somewhat off center.

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Joshua

I won't be starting the conversion until after the race season. I'll pull the pushbuttons and cables now and get them back to him!

If they will be ready by Carlisle, that's plenty soon enough for my swap.

I'll report back on my findings with the steering box/pitman arm. Gonna be October though....
I'll pick Josh's brain a bit. So far he's been spot on every time. Sort of a Country Gentleman/Inventor/Genius sort of individual. With race cars.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I'm still wondering why Hollander's disagrees. They don't usually make errors on stuff like this, but they do take a pretty hardline approach to interchangeability. If part "A" can be used in place of part "B" by transferring a bolt or bracket from part "B", they'll go that far (and make a note of it) but if there's any modification required — enlarging mount holes, for example — they will call it non-interchangeable.
Mmm...what makes you say so?

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, but the same engine, transmission, and rear were in both cars. How do you account for the difference in wheelbase when everything ended up in the same place?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I don't. Perhaps the components all knew that you don't know much about that wheelbase crap.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Do the springs have the same anchor point for the pads?

Is the difference in the spring, or the shackle placement?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

A-body springs are all the same except for a minor mount bolt configuration difference pre-'64.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It seems to me that any pitman that fits your steering box which also has a stud that points in the same direction as the idler stud can be make it work. The drag link holes for the pitman and idler are parallel to each other. Dan, I am wondering if the ball joint stud on the later small spline manual steering box might have a bigger stud, or one that points in another direction from the earlier drag link stud. Do you think Hollander assumes you will transfer the pitman with the box?

I have changed transmissions and rears many, many times, and almost every time needed a different length drive shaft. I went to the junk yard and looked for a long time the first time I swapped a 7 1/4" rear for an 8 1/4". Supposedly a Duster drive shaft would fit the Dart with the bigger rear. It was all pretty much a waste of time as I would have needed new U joints. Any car that had either the rear or tranny pulled, no longer had a drive shaft in it. I just ended up having one made, and did so there after.

Sam

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Doan fergit that the later cars had the motor set back 2"`~ on the K member....as Dion discovered when he put the later K in an early car.

When Dennis swapped driveshafts the 2" difference in wheelbase was negated by the 2" setback in the later car.....or something ........

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Ding, ding, ding!!!! We have a winner. Wheelbase is meaningless unless the motor/trans are in the same place.

Have yourself a red ale for that one Sandy.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.